Lens recommendations for extreme distance (~500-800mm)

[cirwin2010]

I'm interested in shooting some subjects that have been quite literally out of reach for me. Namely lighthouses 1-3km off the coast, the moon, and next years solar eclipse. I have a Hassleblad and 4x5 setup, but getting the reach I need is difficult (or impossible) with those systems. Hence I am exploring a 35mm options for extreme distance.

The amount of older 35mm lenses is overwhelming hence why I am asking for opinions here as a starting point. I'm in no rush to get anything now, but I will need to something for next years eclipse and I would hope that I can find a suitable setup by then. I can always fall back on digital, but I like silver gelatin prints.

Wish list:
-Nikon or Canon as they have the largest ecosystems, modern options, and good adaptability
-500-800mm
-under $800, cheaper is better
-f8 or brighter
-sharp enough for 11x14" prints (or some cropping)

 

[neilt3]

The most obvious that springs to mind is the Tamron adaptall 2 500mm reflex lens . Perhaps with the 1.4x teleconverter .
Alternatively the OEM offerings .
If you go with Minolta you can get an autofocus 500mm f/8 reflex that gives good results .
I bought an autofocus 400mm f/4.5 APO G lens for about your budget about a year ago , prices are coming down , I already have 1.4x and 2x teleconverters .
Typically £100-£200 for the 500mm reflex lens and £125 for a Dynax/Maxxum 7 body or £15 for a Dynax/Maxxum 5 .

If you want Canon , if your lucky you might be able to pick up 300mm or 400mm AF "L" lens and 1.4x teleconverter for your budget.

I'm not too familiar with Nikon gear to advise on that .

 

[Kino]

Equally important is a lock-up mirror, a rock-solid tripod and maybe a lens cradle/mount.

 

[MattKing]

And clean, clear and still air!

 

[xkaes]

Since you didn't mention that you already have a 35mm SLR, I assume that you don't. Given that, there are a ton of great options -- for cameras (you don't say if you want film or digital) and lenses.

Leaving cameras aside, many long lenses are available in T-mounts that fit anything. Since you are dealing with subjects close to infinity, auto-focusing is less of any issue.

I just picked up a Shutterbug 500mm f6.3 CAT/MIRROR T-mount, used, in mint condition, for $20. It was also sold as Vivitar Series 1, Samyang, Phoenix, and other brands. I didn't need it, but it was basically free -- at the thrift store. I didn't expect much, but I've compared it to my Sigma APO 500mm f7.2 and was pleasantly surprised. For longer lenses, there are a bevy of 800mm lenses -- just like the 500mm lenses, the CATS are much smaller, lighter and less expensive. For 700mm and longer, you should consider telescopes. I have a Honeywell 1250mm f10.5 that is a "stripped-down" Celestron C-5. Paid $75. Works fine with my film and digital, manual-focus and auto-focus cameras,

 

[Jim Jones]

My Vivitar 400mm f/5.6 in Nikon F mount has given me total satisfaction for many decades now.

 

[mshchem]

I would look for, used, Nikon D300 or better D500 DX DSLR or pick your favorite brand. Get an inexpensive 400mm 5.6 or faster shoot it f8, mirror locked up, with a self timer or cable release.

If you have to shoot film I would shoot Ektar and crop. I found an amazing 400 f2.8 Nikon AF-I lens several years back, these lenses are quite reasonable in comparison to the current VR super lenses. It's too heavy to use without a tripod, heaviest autofocus lens Nikon has made over the years. One of the best things I've ever bought.

Your issue will be distortion from thermals in the air. Need fancy AI to correct atmospheric distortion, probably is in the latest freaking iPhone

 

[Sirius Glass]

For my Nikon AF cameras I have a Tamron 150mm to 600mm AF zoom lens with a 2X extender. From my Hasselblad I have the 500mm lens and the 2XE extender which is equivalent to ~635mm on a 35mm camera when I use the 2XE.

 

[Paul Howell]

You might need to spend more than $800, reflex lens can be had for under $800 but finding a solar filter that would fit in the fitler drawer? If you can find filters that fit a lens drawer then there are a number of reflex lens that will meet your needs, Vivitar S1, Nikon, are both good lens. I have a Sigma 600 in Minolta A mount, it is a non AF lens, the Minolta 500 is a bit shorter but is AF. That it will matter when shooting an ellipse. As mentioned already, a longish Tamron or Sigma zoom, early editions can be found for under $800 but may fall short in terms of sharpness, I would keep a zoom in the mid range. I shot the last ellipse, I had considered film but decided to use a cropped sensor, I used my Sony A700 with a Tokina 400 F5.6 with a filter I found on Amazon. For a 11X14, Canon or Nikon, maybe a Nikon D300, with Sigma or Tokina 400mm.

 

[Sirius Glass]

You might need to spend more than $800, reflex lens can be had for under $800 but finding a solar filter that would fit in the fitler drawer? If you can find filters that fit a lens drawer then there are a number of reflex lens that will meet your needs, Vivitar S1, Nikon, are both good lens. I have a Sigma 600 in Minolta A mount, it is a non AF lens, the Minolta 500 is a bit shorter but is AF. That it will matter when shooting an ellipse. As mentioned already, a longish Tamron or Sigma zoom, early editions can be found for under $800 but may fall short in terms of sharpness, I would keep a zoom in the mid range. I shot the last ellipse, I had considered film but decided to use a cropped sensor, I used my Sony A700 with a Tokina 400 F5.6 with a filter I found on Amazon. For a 11X14, Canon or Nikon, maybe a Nikon D300, with Sigma or Tokina 400mm.

Eliipses can be very dangerous it one does not watch the traffic when walking on to the Ellipse!

 

[Sirius Glass]

You might need to spend more than $800, reflex lens can be had for under $800 but finding a solar filter that would fit in the fitler drawer? If you can find filters that fit a lens drawer then there are a number of reflex lens that will meet your needs, Vivitar S1, Nikon, are both good lens. I have a Sigma 600 in Minolta A mount, it is a non AF lens, the Minolta 500 is a bit shorter but is AF. That it will matter when shooting an ellipse. As mentioned already, a longish Tamron or Sigma zoom, early editions can be found for under $800 but may fall short in terms of sharpness, I would keep a zoom in the mid range. I shot the last ellipse, I had considered film but decided to use a cropped sensor, I used my Sony A700 with a Tokina 400 F5.6 with a filter I found on Amazon. For a 11X14, Canon or Nikon, maybe a Nikon D300, with Sigma or Tokina 400mm.

I avoid reflex lenses because I do not like all the little circles caused by the out of focus artifacts.

 

[Paul Howell]

Eliipses can be very dangerous it one does not watch the traffic when walking on to the Ellipse!

The joy of auto correct.

 

[xkaes]

I avoid reflex lenses because I do not like all the little circles caused by the out of focus artifacts.

The donuts only appear with certain subjects -- like bright spots, reflections -- and when they occur they are often easily overcome. An 800mm f8 refractor lens is three times the size, weight, and cost (or more) of a CAT.

 

[Arthurwg]

I use a 500mm F8 CF lens on my Hasselblad. Works very well but filters are expensive. Not sure if this would be long enough for you.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The donuts only appear with certain subjects -- like bright spots, reflections -- and when they occur they are often easily overcome. An 800mm f8 refractor lens is three times the size, weight, and cost (or more) of a CAT.

That supplements ones physical fitness program.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I use a 500mm F8 CF lens on my Hasselblad. Works very well but filters are expensive. Not sure of this would be long enough for you.

That is why I have the 2XE, but then the moose, elk, ... just move further away so that the best that I can do with the 500mm and the 2XE is get a photograph of a herd. See post #8 about the 1200mm lens I use for 35mm.

 

[MattKing]

Check the Classifieds - apparently Kumar felt your need:
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/fs-nikkor-t-ed-600mm-f-9-800mm-f-12-lens-set.201069/

 

[Sirius Glass]

Check the Classifieds - apparently Kumar felt your need:
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/fs-nikkor-t-ed-600mm-f-9-800mm-f-12-lens-set.201069/

A bit hard to put on a 35mm camera or even a MF camera.

 

[Focomatter]

Opening day

The return of the Cordova gillnetter fleet at the end of the first opener of the 2023 Alaska salmon fishing season.

www.salmonography.com

The linked pic comes close to your requirements since it was shot over seawater. I have shot this once-yearly event (see image title) many times but only when the weather was OK. This is my latest, this year 2023. I used the Nikon 500mmN mirror lens and a Nikon Z9 mirrorless camera. The N version takes 82mm filters so should be easier (and cheaper) to find a solar filter for. A bit more challenging than your requirements because the boats were moving towards me. I used the magnification (either 100% or 200%) focus method with the focusing box (what one sees in the VF) placed about where I wanted the boat I focused on to be in the frame. I panned the camera on a pan head (tripod mounted); left hand on the focusing ring and right hand on the camera grip. Previously I used the Z6 also via a magnification method - with it I used the mechanical shutter as the e-shutter in that camera is artifact prone at the high shutter speeds used. With the Z9 however this is not an issue as well there is no vibration AT ALL due to the shutterless camera design. It is so much easier to focus this lens using this method compared to either DSLRs (terrible) or film SLRs (marginal with select focusing screens, terrible with non-selects) that I cannot find words to describe it.

 

[B.S.Kumar]

Check the Classifieds - apparently Kumar felt your need:
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/fs-nikkor-t-ed-600mm-f-9-800mm-f-12-lens-set.201069/

A bit hard to put on a 35mm camera or even a MF camera.

Since the OP already has a 4x5 setup, this could work. Adapters to mount a Hasselblad camera or a 35mm camera on the back of a 4x5 camera are also available on eBay. Of course this combo will work only with a solid metal camera, not a wooden Chamonix or Tachihara.
In a day or two, I will also list a more affordable Nikkor-T*ED 500mm lens, as well as a Bronica Zenzanon-S 500mm f/8 lens for the SQ series cameras.

Kumar

 

[xkaes]

Since the OP already has a 4x5 setup, this could work.

Very true, but a 600mm/800mm on a 4x5 is very different than on a 35mm -- NOT necessarily in size and weight, however. You can always crop a 4x5" down to 1x1.5", but if you want photos of distant subjects, a long lens on a 35mm format "goes a lot farther."

 

[B.S.Kumar]

Very true, but a 600mm/800mm on a 4x5 is very different than on a 35mm. You can always crop a 4x5" down to 1x1.5", but if you want photos of distant subjects, a long lens on a 35mm format "goes a lot farther."

I also suggested using an adapter to mount an MF or 35mm camera on the back of the 4x5 camera. One could also use a roll film holder on the 4x5, and I have a Graflok compatible 645 back listed on the forum.

Kumar

 

[cirwin2010]

I use a 500mm F8 CF lens on my Hasselblad. Works very well but filters are expensive. Not sure if this would be long enough for you.

I considered the 500mm CF with a 2x converter. But, I am not sure it is worth the investment as the tools to repair and service the 350mm and 500mm Hasselblad lenses no longer exist. Most repair shops won't touch those lenses. Figured it wasn't worth risking a $1k paperweight, plus 35mm is lighter with more options for this particular task.

 

[cirwin2010]

Since the OP already has a 4x5 setup, this could work. Adapters to mount a Hasselblad camera or a 35mm camera on the back of a 4x5 camera are also available on eBay. Of course this combo will work only with a solid metal camera, not a wooden Chamonix or Tachihara.
In a day or two, I will also list a more affordable Nikkor-T*ED 500mm lens, as well as a Bronica Zenzanon-S 500mm f/8 lens for the SQ series cameras.


Kumar

I have a Chamonix so sticking another camera on the back isn't going to work. There are roll film backs of course that can work, but these are not ideal for me for a number of reasons:
-large format lenses don't have the same resolving power per mm as a lens optimized for a smaller format. Cropping down on your image circle will drastically reduce quality in most cases.
-very long large format lenses become unwieldy with all the extension they require and my camera (without accessories) doesn't support anything beyond 395mm of extension. The nikkor 500mm T* ED is my longest lens and it isn't even that long when compared to what smaller formats can offer.
-forget using this for the moon or an eclipse

 

[cirwin2010]

Eliipses can be very dangerous it one does not watch the traffic when walking on to the Ellipse!

I avoid reflex lenses because I do not like all the little circles caused by the out of focus artifacts.

I think mirror lenses a generally lens sharp and often don't offer aperture control. Also filters might be difficult?