1. Use shallow (or shallower) depth of field. The film plane doesn't distinguish depth the way the eye does—it doesn't see one branch, and other one feet behind, and two others three feet behind, etc. It just see shapes of the same luminance level on the same plane. By using shallow depth of field, you create the illusion of depth—therefore, separation—by having objects at different focus levels, and, by giving less light to objects further away. Good example below by our friend Ansel, in which the illusion of depth is perfect. He did use a #15 yellow filter for this scene, which darkened the shadows and lightened the yellow leafs
2. If you have some green foliage adding to the confusion, use a yellow or green filter. Film doesn't distinguish well the luminance difference between darker green foliage and brown, or brownish tree trunk—and dark grey rock, for that matter, so you can have a beautiful forest scene with trees, leaves and grass and a big bolder in the middle that ends up a mushy mess on black and white film. If you have green foliage, a yellow or green filter will at least lighten it and separate it from the branches. Choice will depend on the rest of the scene.
3. This all only works if you have light that adds contrast. I would suggest sun at somewhere between 20º and 60º, ideally some degree on the right or left of the scene. If light itself doesn't give you enough contrast, think about adding to your usual development time for that film/developer combo. Slow, higher contrast film like Ilford Pan F could also help.