I have a bunch of SLRs including Nikon F6, F3ltd, F3p, F2As, Minolta XK, Leica R7, RE etc etc
And my Leica R8 and R9 are by far the best. I thought they were huge too until I held them. I have medium sized hands and the camera is ergonomically perfect. As is the minimal and yet perfectly thought out controls.
So simple and clever to use, makes the menus, meter options, menu diving on stuff like my F6 just seem stupid. The only advantage my F6 has is AF. If you want AF, then yeah the Leica SLRs are not for you.
But if you want the high water mark in 35mm manual focus camera design, the R8/9 r it..