Leica M6 light meter stuck both lights ON

Friends in the Vondelpark

A
Friends in the Vondelpark

  • 0
  • 0
  • 6
S/S 2025

A
S/S 2025

  • 0
  • 0
  • 35
Street art

A
Street art

  • 0
  • 0
  • 35
20250427_154237.jpg

D
20250427_154237.jpg

  • 2
  • 0
  • 69
Genbaku Dome

D
Genbaku Dome

  • 7
  • 2
  • 89

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
197,512
Messages
2,760,237
Members
99,523
Latest member
Wetplatephotography
Recent bookmarks
0

Bryan Murray

Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2006
Messages
66
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Format
35mm
Both red lights stay lit up even if i move the shutter speed or aperture. They turn off on the Bulb setting, but that's it. Otherwise i get a correct exposure reading in any setting.

Anyone have this problem?

Thanks for the help!
-Bryan
 

Tony Egan

Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2005
Messages
1,295
Location
Sydney, Australia
Format
Multi Format
The thread below has some additional info. M6 TTL is notorious for draining batteries in a matter of days. Perhaps the recommended fix mentioned in my post #10 might also help.
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
Luckily, a flat battery doesn't affect operations and I can always revert to my iphone for several metering apps (or just make an educated guess!)
 
OP
OP

Bryan Murray

Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2006
Messages
66
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Format
35mm
the weird part is that the meter lights both come on. they just stay on and don't adjust with the aperture or shutter (except for B).
 

Theo Sulphate

Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2014
Messages
6,492
Location
Gig Harbor
Format
Multi Format
Obviously something in the circuit is messed up. Maybe try selecting different ISOs on the back in case that's the faulty component.
 

Michael W

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Messages
1,594
Location
Sydney
Format
Multi Format
I haven't had this both lights on problem, however I did have a problem with an M6 meter a few years back. The meter was not giving consistent readings across all camera settings. For example I might have the aperture at f/8 and get a correct reading with the shutter at 1/125. So if I changed the aperture to f/11 I would expect the meter to register that 1/60 was correct. However it would want me to choose a shutter speed that was a few stops further. This only happened with certain shutter speeds. I took it to a repair guy and he took the top plate off and cleaned inside - said it is a known problem that dust can get in and block some internal sensor or diode (forget the exact item). After the clean it was working correctly again. Even though the problem described in this thread is different, I wonder if it could also be caused by internal dust.
 

pentaxpete

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2010
Messages
633
Location
Brentwood, England
Format
Multi Format
You're lucky to have ANY light come on ! My 1986 M6 body lights don't come on at all now -- done all the 'cleaning checks etc' so i use my 1960's Weston master III meter or GUESS ( Henri Cartier-Bresson guessed and HE took a few good snaps ! )
 

BMbikerider

Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2012
Messages
2,915
Location
UK
Format
35mm
A stab in the dark. I wonder is the meter works on the same principal as the one fitted to the NIkon F1 and F2 Photomics where there was a carbon track which acted like a rheostat, so altering the current to the meter, depending on the light entering the lens. If so the track may be worn and creating the problem you have???

No doubt with Leica it can be repaired - but at a cost.
 

Theo Sulphate

Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2014
Messages
6,492
Location
Gig Harbor
Format
Multi Format
A stab in the dark. I wonder is the meter works on the same principal as the one fitted to the NIkon F1 and F2 Photomics where there was a carbon track which acted like a rheostat, so altering the current to the meter, depending on the light entering the lens. ...

It's simpler for the Leica, as the light striking the photocell is always coming from the lens at the selected aperture. All the metering system then needs to know is the film speed and shutter speed.

With the Nikon (or other SLRs), the scene is metered at full aperture regardless of the aperture you've got selected. Therefore, when you turn the aperture ring to select an aperture, there needs to be a mechanism to tell the metering system two things: First, the maximum aperture of the lens (telling the meter that, for example, the light it's seeing now - wide open - is from an f/2.8 lens). Second, it needs to know the selected aperture so that it can calculate how much less light the actual exposure will be made at.

The first criterion was satisfied by, after mounting the lens, you performed the Nikon Aperture Ritual of twisting the aperture ring to max and min settings.

The ring resistor was part of the second criterion in that as you turned the ring, the "rabbit ears" indirectly moved the contact on the ring resistor in the head.
 
Last edited:
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom