Large size framing - thickness of foam core board

[tkamiya]

A typical form core board is 3/16" thick. A thin one is 1/8" thick.

If I were to frame something large, I'd imagine 3/16" won't have enough rigidity and flatness in the middle.

Are there any standard or rule to use thicker size (and what size) for a frame larger than (what size?) certain size?

I have a frame 24x40 coming soon. Is 3/16" thick enough or should I double this??

 

[Poisson Du Jour]

A typical form core board is 3/16" thick. A thin one is 1/8" thick.

If I were to frame something large, I'd imagine 3/16" won't have enough rigidity and flatness in the middle.

Are there any standard or rule to use thicker size (and what size) for a frame larger than (what size?) certain size?

I have a frame 24x40 coming soon. Is 3/16" thick enough or should I double this??

Just stick an additional foamcore back to the one already in place. But this could hinder the framing mouldings so probably best to take the subsequent moulding measurements into account as an offset of a few centimetres. I've known some photographers to insert aluminium sheet behind the foamcore and others still to dibond the resulting photograph that neatly gets around any risk of warping or flexing of the large print.

 

[MattKing]

I bet fdi (APUG) sponsor would be able to help with advice.

 

[fdi]

A typical form core board is 3/16" thick. A thin one is 1/8" thick.

If I were to frame something large, I'd imagine 3/16" won't have enough rigidity and flatness in the middle.

Are there any standard or rule to use thicker size (and what size) for a frame larger than (what size?) certain size?

I have a frame 24x40 coming soon. Is 3/16" thick enough or should I double this??

I try to use 3/16 all the time because it does not warp as much as 1/8. Although I would not recommend using foamboard stand alone, the picture frame usually keeps it pretty flat. Foam-board warping is caused by changes in humidity. If you are worried about your print, then you should be careful about exposing it to humidity changes. Humidity changes will cause the print to curl and may even cause a wood frame to warp. Adding more foam to the frame will only help a little since it will warp also. If you cant help but have it exposed to humidity changes then you want to use a backing board that is not sensitive to humidity.

 

[Vaughn]

Might be over-kill, but a friend used two pieces of plex -- one for the front and one for the back. The back one can be slightly scratched (perhaps one that was used on the front for awhile).

One thing nice about this is that any signature or other info that the photographer puts on the back of the print's mounting board can be seen. Makes for a pretty well sealed package, also.

 

[wildbill]

I try to use 3/16 all the time because it does not warp as much as 1/8. Although I would not recommend using foamboard stand alone, the picture frame usually keeps it pretty flat. Foam-board warping is caused by changes in humidity. If you are worried about your print, then you should be careful about exposing it to humidity changes. Humidity changes will cause the print to curl and may even cause a wood frame to warp. Adding more foam to the frame will only help a little since it will warp also. If you cant help but have it exposed to humidity changes then you want to use a backing board that is not sensitive to humidity.

what he said. foam core warps all over the place.
gatorboard, a more expensive material is much more rigid and stable.

 

[tkamiya]

I'm going to fill back of my frame with concrete!

 

[fdi]

I'm going to fill back of my frame with concrete!

Ok, but leave a small air hole since completely sealing it up causes other problems.

 

[tkamiya]

Re-bar welded together, gravels ready.... 40,000 lbs concrete ready to go!

Oh, yeah... small hole for breathing. Check!

Kidding aside, I have a mat cut, and the photograph is ready. Can't wait for the frame to show up on Wednesday!