Labelling 120 Films

[Fatih Ayoglu]

Hi all,

Has anybody found a clever way of labelling 120 films that goes in to the developing tank?

And what I mean by this; when I use 35mm films, I put small notes with a permanent marker on the film leader before the film goes into the camera, and when I develop those films, obviously the film leader gives me the enough information so I can match with my notes.

However I couldn’t find an efficient way to do a similar thing for 120 films and therefore what happens is, I keep developing in a batch of 2 film only, which is becoming very time and resource inefficient.

What do you use if anything to label/mark your 120 films to compare with your notes?

Cheers,
Fatih

 

[BobUK]

I seldom develop more than two rolls at a time these days, but when occasionally doing three or four together of similar objects or test exposures, I would simply put pin pricks in the end of the leader along the edge that had been glued to the backing paper.
One hole, two hole, three etc..

Fool-proof and cheap.

 

[Romanko]

I would simply put pin pricks in the end of the leader along the edge that had been glued to the backing paper.

I use a hand punch. Same idea but a bit easier to use in the dark. You can punch a different number of holes or go fancy and use punches of different shapes.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

That or clip corners with scissors. Lots of ways to "mark" the film. Just write down what corresponds to what.

Doremus

 

[MattKing]

When I load the film, I fold the tape over at the leading edge. You could mark that.

 

[Dirb9]

A roll of twin check labels, what labs use, is about $25 on ebay for 1000 labels. Easy to stick one on the end of the roll where the tape is, so it doesn't intrude into an image, and the matching numbered label on your notes.

 

[cmacd123]

A roll of twin check labels, what labs use, is about $25 on ebay for 1000 labels. Easy to stick one on the end of the roll where the tape is, so it doesn't intrude into an image, and the matching numbered label on your notes.

that is the way I id all my films.

1) Note put with the film when I finish the roll. (date, subject, and special notes.)
2) copy the info on a list as I am loading the tank. one list per tank load.
3 Twin check tab to identify the roll.
If I am using a reloadable 35mm casette, one Twin Check goes on the cassette if it does not already have one, and one goes on the leader of the film. I write the number by hand on my list. If the casette hs an old twin check, I note the old number on my tank list.
for 120, I stick the twin check where the tape is peeled off the film, But on the emulsion side as some 120 has an anti-halo back coating that comes off in processeing, I also had to do hat with the EFKE 35mmm film.
If the relaodable cassette has a problem that shows up after the film is developed, I can find the bad cassette and deal with it. from the tank list.
Normally one twin check on the film, and one beside the information on that film as listed on my tank list.

4) when cutting the rolls and puting them in file pages, the twin check number lets me find the tank list and I can copy the date and other info onto the file page.
5 Part of my data is a code for each camera, so that if a camera has had a problem I can identify what camera needs repairs.

far more detailed than many folks need, until you develop a roll and ask yourself - was that in Manotick or Almonte...

 

[blee1996]

A roll of twin check labels, what labs use, is about $25 on ebay for 1000 labels. Easy to stick one on the end of the roll where the tape is, so it doesn't intrude into an image, and the matching numbered label on your notes.

I use the same system - twin check labels combined with my online (google sheet) and offline notes. So far they worked well, and I'm doing about 100+ rolls a year.

 

[Fatih Ayoglu]

I use a changing tent to load the films on the reels, so pin wasnt my preferred method. I have purchased a single punch holder and will mark film with that, close to the edge.

Maybe twin check labels are good idea as well, I can invest on them.

 

[uranylcation]

Mark on the reel before loading the film?

 

[Fatih Ayoglu]

Mark on the reel before loading the film?

How? I use Paterson and Hewes reels. As far as I can see, there isn’t a place I can put a sticker or anything. Plus in the dark, how would I know which reels is which, and which film it takes?

 

[c41]

Without meaning to seem facetious, don't you recall which roll is which when you've developed it?
I give every roll an index number #1, #2 and just make notes based on that if I need to then bring the whole thing together when I sleeve the negatives. I don't see the value of doing it before you've developed the images on the roll?

For example my notes would be like

01 - Tri-X 400 Picture of the Pope on the bog, f/16, other stuff, finished with shot of Godzilla rising from ocean
02 - TMax 400 at 400. Green Filter. Whole roll pictures of Godzilla
03 etc..

Then once developed I write things on the neg sleeve or proof etc to bring it together. If my notes impact development then I wouldn't be developing the rolls all together so not an issue.

Or snipping a corner of the leader could work!!

 

[jk0592]

This got me thinking about this problem.
Here is what I think could be done, for a maximum of 4 films (maybe 5) to be practical. Before putting your 120 rolls in the changing bag (or tent or darkroom), put 1 small rubber band on film #1, 2 rubber bands on film #2,.., 4 rubber bands on film #4. This makes it easy to identify the various films without seeing them thereafter, simply by counting the rubber bands on a roll.
Then:
Find film #1, take off the 1 rubber band, unroll, then punch 1 small hole at tape extremity, and load on reel.
Find film #2, take off the 2 rubber bands, unroll, then punch 2 small holes at tape extremity, and load on reel.
…
Find film #4, take off the 4 rubber bands, unroll, then punch 4 holes at tape extremity, and load on reel.

You can handle them in random order.
Once developed, it is easy to identify each individual film, by counting the punch holes.

 

[Fatih Ayoglu]

Without meaning to seem facetious, don't you recall which roll is which when you've developed it?
I give every roll an index number #1, #2 and just make notes based on that if I need to then bring the whole thing together when I sleeve the negatives. I don't see the value of doing it before you've developed the images on the roll?

For example my notes would be like

01 - Tri-X 400 Picture of the Pope on the bog, f/16, other stuff, finished with shot of Godzilla rising from ocean
02 - TMax 400 at 400. Green Filter. Whole roll pictures of Godzilla
03 etc..

Then once developed I write things on the neg sleeve or proof etc to bring it together. If my notes impact development then I wouldn't be developing the rolls all together so not an issue.

Or snipping a corner of the leader could work!!

no hard feelings.

The issue is, I usually bulk develop films, 10-20 films together. I always have a note on the films as Countrycode_year_roll# like UK_24_01. Also I put EI values on the films so I remember to develop them correctly. This works great for 35mm films as I can out all these info on the film leader2. However I couldn't find a way to do it for 120 films. I usually develop 3 films in a single tank, loading the films in the Harrison tent, obviously, I get confused which film is which.

Bought a single hole punch and used it today. Sadly I have damaged a corner of one of the films and that has caused me more headache.

Ordered twin check labels, I think that will be the solution for me

 

[Fatih Ayoglu]

This got me thinking about this problem.
Here is what I think could be done, for a maximum of 4 films (maybe 5) to be practical. Before putting your 120 rolls in the changing bag (or tent or darkroom), put 1 small rubber band on film #1, 2 rubber bands on film #2,.., 4 rubber bands on film #4. This makes it easy to identify the various films without seeing them thereafter, simply by counting the rubber bands on a roll.
Then:
Find film #1, take off the 1 rubber band, unroll, then punch 1 small hole at tape extremity, and load on reel.
Find film #2, take off the 2 rubber bands, unroll, then punch 2 small holes at tape extremity, and load on reel.
…
Find film #4, take off the 4 rubber bands, unroll, then punch 4 holes at tape extremity, and load on reel.

You can handle them in random order.
Once developed, it is easy to identify each individual film, by counting the punch holes.

yep this is great! I will try with my next batch before twin check labels. Thank you

 

[c41]

yep this is great! I will try with my next batch before twin check labels. Thank you

good luck! I don't know if there is a way to label the reels rather than the films, that might be easier and more long-term, you just align the roll #1 with the reel #1 before you put it on. etc.

 

[uranylcation]

How? I use Paterson and Hewes reels. As far as I can see, there isn’t a place I can put a sticker or anything. Plus in the dark, how would I know which reels is which, and which film it takes?

Proceed at your own risk, but as I can see, you can make small cuts on the edge or center of the reel, like one cut for No. 1 reel, two cuts for No. 2, etc. Then put your No. 1 film and No. 1 reel and tank in the dark bag, load it, seal in the tank, then put your No. 2 film and No. 2 reel in the dark bag , do the same, until you have all your films loaded.

 

[darkroommike]

I use twin checks, even when I was processing a lot of film for others, including time served in a one hour lab. One twin check goes on the end of the spool with enough sticking out I can peel it and transfer it to the tape end of the film in the changing bag or darkroom. The other goes on my notes, film log, or work envelop. Or (I suppose) onto a Print File page.

 

[BillBaileyImages]

A modified approach that works for me (using "triple checks" instead of twin checks--didn't even know triple checks existed until I went hunting for twin checks):
1. On my notebook page for that roll (120 or 35mm--I use a notch-code system for LF film holders),
2. On the actual roll when I remove it from the magazine or camera, and
3. On the spool end before loading onto reels. This check is attached to each leader before loading onto the Jobo 2502 reels.
Taking obsessively-complete shooting notes requires keeping the link, between
those notes and the actual film, intact for my learning. Looking forward to other input on this topic.

 

[Pieter12]

No notes. Works for me.