Kodak Vision3 500T in 35mm?

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Helinophoto

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Hi

I've not been following the cinema-film availability really well.
But I found Cinestill 800 to be very very interesting and I have pondered if I should buy some motion-picture film (Vision3 500T is Cinestill 800, only with remjet-backing) and shoot some (removing the remjet before or after processing).

However, I cannot seem to find Kodak Vision3 500T in 35mm anywhere, is this discontinued?

Cinetill sure makes it, so what gives? (has the original Kodak stock changed name or something?)
 
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guangong

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How do you remove the ramjet backing? Have you done this before? Without special equipment?
 
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I would bet that Kodak 5219 is their best selling stock. I think it's most common to order this film directly from Kodak, as opposed to a reseller. You know, generally they're dealing with someone buying A LOT of film at a time.

I would stick with Cinestill if you wanna shoot it though. But better yet, I would simply NOT shoot it and push Portra 400 +1 or even +2.
 

howardpan

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I have developed color cinematic film before. You can remove the remjet by using a prewash using the following formula:

Borax 20g
Sodium Sulfite 100g
Sodium Hydroxide 1.5g
Add water to make 1L of solution

Soak the film in this solution for about 30 seconds to soften the remjet.
Wash the film with fresh water and agitation until the water poured out is clear.
Most of the remjet will be removed in this manner and you can start with the C41 development process.

Once you have finished developing the film, including the final wash, you can run the film through your fingers to remove any last remaining remjet.
 
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Helinophoto

Helinophoto

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Well, it's strange, because B&H has listed it as unavailable
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/754457-USA/Kodak_1802438_VISION3_500T_Color_Negative.html

I've read several posts around the web on the removal of the remjet, some use the formula above, some simply wash the film with washing-soda (1 teaspoon per liter of water and shake the tank and was until water is clear), others have used dishwater-soap, others again have used physical removal (cloth or similar) after the blix. In general I am not too worried about getting the stuff off. (I don't even think I can get hold of half the chemicals listed above). :smile:

Actually could not find any place that did sell the film, before really doing a real drill-down on google.
Then I did (finally) find a place in the UK where you can buy "clearance rolls" from around 100 to 300 meters (https://www.epayments.co.uk/epages/...558/Categories/Clearance_Stock/35mm_Clearance ) and the price is much lower than IE Dead Link Removed

I plan to transfer around 100 feet to a reel and put that into a bulk-loader.

Bought both the 500T and the 50D variant. (180m and 120m) for a grand total of £164, which is a steal. compared to the Cinestil-offering.

The remjet-issue will be solved one way or another. :wink:
 

Lachlan Young

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Generally you buy multiple 400ft/1000ft cans 'business to business' direct from Kodak - Frame24 sell short ends & leftovers as well as new stock - it's always 'price on request' for fresh stock.
 
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Helinophoto

Helinophoto

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I would believe so.

Here's one guy removing the remjet using BAKING soda.



Does anyone know if this is even safe? (Baking soda makes it an alkali solution?)

Looks very easy, so if it doesn't hurt the film (maybe PhotoEngineer knows?), I don't see the problem with the remjet removal, other than a extra pre wash.
 
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cmacd123

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A 200ft roll is a real strange size, 400ft and 1000ft are the way most (Movie) users would buy it. B&H probably only listed it to keep a film school happy.

Then I did (finally) find a place in the UK where you can buy "clearance rolls" from around 100 to 300 meters (https://www.epayments.co.uk/epages/...558/Categories/Clearance_Stock/35mm_Clearance ) and the price is much lower than IE Dead Link Removed

"clearance" rolls, do you mean "short ends" or Old stock?

OK - looking at your link, there are a few short ends or recans. (short end: what is left in the camera magazine when the shot ends, and the director decides to reload the camera as the next shot is likely to take more film than what is left. Recan: the film was loaded in a magazine, but the magazine was not needed for the days shooting, and so the film was put back in the can less the leader used to tread the magazine.)

since the ends are random lengths, they would only have one of each. they should be OK, but for still use the first 10 feet may be fogged from being loaded in a magazine. if there is 300ft or more left as a short, it likely means that they started with a 1000ft roll, and so it may still be on a 3Inch core rather than the 2 inch core that a 400ft load would be wound on at the factory. Only thing that does is make the roll a touch bigger in diameter than a "real" 400ft roll.

(35mm film runs at 90 feet a minute so ends really are a nuisance to movie folks)

Frame 24 in the UK did clear out the Fuji Stock that they had left over when they exited the movie business. they seem to also have some left over rolls from finished productions,
 

Gerald C Koch

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The problem with the Cinestill film is that it is cross-purposed ECN film and not intended for the usual C-41 processing. The two processes use different color developing agents which effects the colors. Cinestill removes the remjet coating to avoid legal hassles with film processors who don't want their solutions contaminated. Developing this film in C-41 will result in false color and serious cross-over between color layers. I personally would not use it nor would I recommend it. You will be using a tungsten film in daylight without any CC filter.
 
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cmacd123

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The problem with the Cinestill film is that it is cross-purposed ECN film and not intended for the usual C-41 processing. Cinestill removes the remjet coating to avoid legal hassles with film processors who don't want their solutions contaminated. Developing this film in C-41 will result in false color and serious cross-over between color layers. I personally would not use it nor would I recommend it. You will be using a tungsten without any CC filter. film in daylight.

way back in teh good old days there were film labs that would buy up short ends of Movie film and bulk load it and then offer processing service in ECN and later ECNII (yes it was that long ago)

they would then use an average exposure to print on Movie positive film and return the positive as slides. I could not resist back in the day. the proper process does deal with the rem jet, and also avoids the cross processing problems. SOME of the movie print stocks did not have long term dye stability, but ECPII stocks were much improved. one could also get prints made from the negative which worked well, except that since the negatives were for movie use they were of much lower contrast than still negatives, resulting in low contrast prints.

it happens that C-41 will give Visible results with an ECN film as long as the rem jet gets out of the way. But quite possibly Portra 800 would give better results.

BTW< when I was playing Back then I did try various home process methods, and can confirm that if any of the rem jet transfers to the image side of the film, it is likely there forever. ;( Best method for me was two photo sponges, one on each side with the sponges rincse separately every 6 inches or so of film. at the end of teh process, discarding all the solutions after each batch as they would be ill of Black particles. Same problem with the rem jet on Fuji and Agfa Negative that was available at that time.
 

Gerald C Koch

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I have processed ECN films and have found that the best point in the processing is to remove the remjet coating after the stop bath. The developer is alkaline an will release the coating. So a pre-bath is not needed. You have the advantage at this point of being able to work in room light. The carbon particals can be filtered from the developer so it can be reused.

Years ago the ECN negatives did not quite math the available color papers being off the either 10 CC magenta or 10CC yellow. But the prints were no worse than store processed ones. Newer films have been adjusted to print correctly on either positive stock or papers. I do not find the contrast to be objectionally soft.
 
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Photo Engineer

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Remjet should be removed before development. If done after development, small particles of carbon can be embedded in the gelatin, causing white spots in prints.

I find prints from ECN films to be objectionably low in contrast, but beautiful slides can be made from them using ECP.

PE
 

guangong

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Thank you PE. I asked the question with home processing of 50ft and 100ft rolls of super8 and 16mm films respectively. When the dust clears you always come through.
 
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Helinophoto

Helinophoto

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Remjet should be removed before development. If done after development, small particles of carbon can be embedded in the gelatin, causing white spots in prints.

I find prints from ECN films to be objectionably low in contrast, but beautiful slides can be made from them using ECP.

PE

I realize now that you have been saying this since the beginning of dawn PE, sorry to make you say it yet another time :smile:
(I finally found a few threads here, trough google, while searching for ECN and c-41, in the same search-parameters, and can see that you have been trying to educate us on this for a very long time already :wink: ).


I did buy a roll of Cinestill 50D this weekend (pretty expensive, £37 for 1 roll of 50D and 1 800 ISO ) and went around on a marked-day on Saturday, shooting.
I used my Jupiter-3 on my Leica M6 (that's quite the provocation right there).

They are developed in a regular Tetenal C-41 home-processing kit.

I can see what you mean with lower contrast and muted colors. And I would believe that actually trying to print these negatives could be hard work.

However;

I do hybrid processing when it comes to color (I don't print the negatives, just scan), so any saturation issues and / or contrast problems can be very easily dealt with (takes 1 minute in LR for the whole roll).

Here are two processed (in c-41) shots where I altered a few things after straight scanning.
(In fear of going off-topic; Basically, I set black and white points, gave it a touch of an 'S' curve and increased the saturation a good notch. )
- It is indeed very natural looking and very very close to what I did see with my own eye.

This does NOT mean that I believe that this is an accurate representation of what the film is actually supposed to look, I get that. As far as color-films go though, it's pretty damn good to use as-is. (imo).

Gives a different look from both Ektar and Portra and it tend, since it's daylight balanced, to yield very accurate colors. (strangely)

Bessa_R3M_J3_Cinestill_50D01.jpg


1g6syjPTW9BvBb8Z9


Bessa_R3M_J3_Cinestill_50D02.jpg



What I did not like,as you can also see on these, was the halo-effect in the highlights from the missing remjet coating on these Cinestill-films. The 50D is a daylight balanced negative film, so I would normally use that on sunny days, so it defeats the purpose if it "haloing-out" like this.

A few more examples, these have not been altered a whole lot regarding saturation, but they have been set a accurate black and white point (IE, initial scan was much lower in contrast):

Bessa_R3M_J3_Cinestill_50D09.jpg



Bessa_R3M_J3_Cinestill_50D13.jpg



The final photo explains why I want to get hold of the same film, only with the remjet intact.

Bessa_R3M_J3_Cinestill_50D30.jpg


The last shot shows how horrible the halo-effect really is (here in Norway, the sun is sharp as a razor until it dips below the horizon, all year, every year.....the few days it's sunny out :tongue: ).
- Nope, it's not the lens, Jupiters are prone to flare, not halo-effects.

I would think that the halo-issue becomes much improved with the remjet-coating intact (this may even help the contrast somewhat as well, perhaps). Shooting it with my CZ 50mm planar would probably also give the shots a better definition over-all, compared to the old-coated Jupiter-3, at the very least, it will be slightly less provocative than putting a commie lens on a Leica, haha! :wink:

I could probably have altered these final shots even more the way I would have wanted (more sat and contrast), but I kept them like this, to show how they look, with a quick "fix" after scanning (Nikon Coolscan V ).

I have absolutely no idea what this films is supposed to look like, but (IMO) there is absolutely nothing wrong with the bike-shots (apart from the halo) and when I can get this film for around $0.5 per roll, I can live with the fact that I need to fix them slightly in post. ( I have to do that with every color film I've ever shot and scanned anyway :wink: ).

I am not disagreeing with anyone either:
If there were such a thing as a home ECN-processing kit, I would definitely use that, but discarding potential for miles of cheap, high-quality film for pictorial use, because it looks a little funny in C-41 seems strange to me. I can understand that people who actually wet-print color photos, would be prevented from using it though. :smile:

Sorry if this is a little off-topic, but since I use a process not involving printing, for color, it's kind of hard not to mention the elephant (my Nikon Coolscan V ) in the room :wink:
 
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  • AgX
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AgX

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I think it's most common to order this film directly from Kodak, as opposed to a reseller.
Likely this depends on the country.
Cine films can be ordered directly via their website by clients from the USA and Canada.
I myself with other, even much more expensive film was sent by Kodak to a reseller to order it for me.
Best to inquire at the national Kodak representative.
 

Photo Engineer

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The C41 process is not designed to give optimum image stability or color. It may correct the contrast a bit.

PE
 

cmacd123

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The C41 process is not designed to give optimum image stability or color. It may correct the contrast a bit.
PE

there is a fellow in Russia who lists on ebay what is supposed to be a a 1 litre kit that matches ECN2. again rem jet would be on your own. (the movie machines use a water jet and sometimes squeegees to get it off without it transferring.) BUT the contrast would be lower than you might get using c-41 to allow the old 4 step printing process that movies went through before they became fancy Videos. (negative printed on a special positive film {2242} , which then created duplicate negatives - again on a special material {2273) , which were used to make positive prints on 2383 film.)

These days the original negative generally leaves the photographic domain, and the production is presented as computer video. {a few special productions like "The Hateful Eight" excepted)

the Formulas for ecn2 are all on the Kodak Motion web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion under manuals.

http://motion.kodak.com/motion/Support/Technical_Information/Processing_Manuals/index.htm
 

mehguy

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I have developed color cinematic film before. You can remove the remjet by using a prewash using the following formula:

Borax 20g
Sodium Sulfite 100g
Sodium Hydroxide 1.5g
Add water to make 1L of solution

Soak the film in this solution for about 30 seconds to soften the remjet.
Wash the film with fresh water and agitation until the water poured out is clear.
Most of the remjet will be removed in this manner and you can start with the C41 development process.

Once you have finished developing the film, including the final wash, you can run the film through your fingers to remove any last remaining remjet.

FPP had mentioned in this video that you could just rub it off in warm water with your gloves before the stabilizer step. But I personally haven't processed C41 film, so dont take my word for it, just watch the video.

 

cmacd123

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C41 films do not have remjet.

if they did, the C-41 process whould have provisons to remove it and using ECN-II films would not be a big deal.

I was thinking of another item, one of the comments when I was last playing with ECN-ii was that the ECN films seemed to require a stronger bleach step that C-41 - Particularly with the kits that use a BLIX step. Unexpected thing was that the Blech also finishes the formation of the CYAN dye, and so if the film was under bleached, the Cyan Dye ended up clear.....

My memory is a bit hazy on the details. And I am not sure if I am remembering a problem with ECN as opposed to ECN-II. (ECN used a cyanide bleach which was very powerful.)
 

Photo Engineer

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Ferricyanide, not cyanide. There is a BIG difference. One between life and death. :wink:

IDK what bleach is used for MP films, but the posted process by EK will show what to use.

PE
 

cmacd123

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Ferricyanide, not cyanide. There is a BIG difference.

:smile: yes, but one I can spell without looking it up :wink: the "farmers reducer" stuff.

never did get an actual explanation I can understand about why the cyan dye stays clear if the bleach is not strong enough, perhaps their is not an explanation that someone with Only high school chemistry can understand....
 

Photo Engineer

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Many dyes form LEUCO (colorless or white) dyes after formation. An additional oxidation step is required to form the dyes. They are called in analog photography, 4 equivalent dyes (2 from development and 2 from the bleach) and the others that form dyes directly are 2 equivalent.

PE
 
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