Kodak Vest Pocket - How deal with metal spring catch to get on rails?

[jay moussy]

I was just gifted a Vest Pocket Model B, probably late model, as it has the "doublet" lens markings. Neat little thing, with film roll still in it..!

A question: I am not sure how to safely overcome the shiny metal catch that the lensboard goes over, right when leaving the collapsed position. It physically stops the lensboard assembly from moving forward.
I can take my time and do not want to damage anything. Seeking advice.
EDIT to correct to "lensboard".

 

[Donald Qualls]

The Model B is the bed folder, rather than a strut folder like earlier versions, correct? Can you provide a photo of the catch or where the lens board is stopping?

 

[jay moussy]

Yes, it is the bed folder.

Here is the shiny blade catch, right underneath the pull posts:

I was wondering if the bed may not be fully deployed, but the side struts do click in at end of travel.

 

[MattKing]

When I struggled with something like this in the past, IIRC I ended up pivoting the part with the knurled knobs up out of the way, pulled the whole construction to the other end of the rails and then slid the guide on from that end.

 

[Sirius Glass]

When I struggled with something like this in the past, IIRC I ended up pivoting the part with the knurled knobs up out of the way, pulled the whole construction to the other end of the rails and then slid the guide on from that end.

Please provide a how to video.

 

[MattKing]

I haven't done "video" since I was emotionally scarred by trying to make scripted Super 8 movies - and that was in high school!

 

[jay moussy]

New thought: maybe something else is not quite in place, preventing the motion.

A question only another Vest Pocket user would know: is there another piece that engages onto the rails, other than the one where the knurled posts are set, like another bit behind the hinged pivot part?
(makes any sense?)

 

[Dwight Anderson]

The base behind the hinge does engage the rails. Sometimes the rails in the body don't quite line up with the rails on the bed. Also, I believe there is a small tab on the right side of the base as you look at the front, which needs to be squeezed to lift the focus lock. You probably need to squeeze this as you slide the base across the gap in the rails. Another possibility is squeezing the two pins toward each other to release the catch. I'm working from memory, I could look at mine later in the week

 

[jay moussy]

@Dwight Anderson , yes the base engages onto the rails,and on here it does not.

The bellows are very stiff, and they may prop the lensboard out of proper place.
In attempting to remove the shutter/lens body by removing the rear retainer ring, I was able to get the lensboard to travel a bit without its back gooves engaged, deploying the bellows some.

I now have a better way clean and access the situation, and figure

For the folks still reading...
- not sure what this 1934-35 Kodak bellows material is, and..
- suitable product to apply to regain some flexibility?
- what defines the "film plane" which may be intersting to know if using alternate film, like re-spooled 135?

I got this camera by asking neighbors for old cameras to practice repair on, but I got a serious match here, everything being so old and small!

EDIT to add: film left inside the camera is Verichrome (not Pan) so, that is an indication of how long the bellows were last deployed. Bonus: I have two 127 spools and backing paper.

 

[Donald Qualls]

FWIW, latent images on Verichrome seem to hold pretty well -- I developed a roll of the stuff that came in my first AVPK earlier this year and got pretty good negatives. There's a thread on that one, including what I used for developer (borax-accelerate D-23 plus some benzotriazole). Also my first experience developing film by inspection -- red safelight works for Verichrome.

Sadly, I've never handled that last model Vest Pocket (bed folding Model B), but in the photo it looks as if there's a spring (nickel plated part with two rivets) that might need to be pushed down a little -- or possibly the two knurled posts squeezed together; if they move they might control a latch to hold the front standard in or out.

 

[jay moussy]

@Donald Qualls yes, indeed there is a spring shaped like a blade in there, but it is unclear if the hinged standard need to ride on it, or engage into the blade? I cannot see the operator pressing on this for normal operation. Original manual is very cryptic about bringing to focus position.

I am seeing all this because I have the hinged standard part out of the way riding loose over the rails... probably not the best idea?

In the nesting position, it looks like the hinged part of standard sits a tad taller than the front part with the posts - by design, that is there is no sign of abuse. As it sits taller it cannot engage on rails when moving forward.

Lots of misfolds, they will have to be retrained.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Sounds like you're about to become the local guru for Autographic Model B.