Kodak triX 400 Film.

[darkosaric]

First you need to define what "bad" is, which is quite a task.

I know. But what I want to say is that TriX will look great in any standard developer when all steps are done properly. People are over stating film developer significance in the whole process. Lightning, printing, lens, lens shade, temperature, fresh or not, paper choice ... there are so many variables in the process - film developer choice is not so crucial - just use one of the known/standard developers and it will be just fine.

 

[waileong]

You won't get consensus on anything any more....

 

[Petraio Prime]

And this is common knowledge? I mean people have been using this stuff for years and now I'm told it's no good for 135?

Sometimes the info I find on this side needs to be taken with a lump of salt.

It's a bit harsh. Gentle is the byword, D-76 1:1 is the safest bet.

 

[Cholentpot]

It's a bit harsh. Gentle is the byword, D-76 1:1 is the safest bet.

Would using a higher dilution cut back on the harshness?

 

[Cholentpot]

Yes, it's just you. No, but seriously, I did this for years and really love the combo. What I did not like:

1. Frightfully short times with other films
2. Lack of data with "foreign" films not in Kodak's wheelhouse (pre Massive of course although still true to some degree)
3. The change in packaging, the new big bottles take some time to go though, the smaller bottles I always diluted to make a stock solution since I prefer to not mess with pipettes, syringes, etc. With the new bigger bottles I found THAT to be a PITA.
4. John Sexton and Fred Picker both recommended HC-110 for years (I'll call that a PUSH) but I also liked Covington's unofficial HC-110 page.

I've recently taken to doing test strips on my film anyhow. I got a bunch of film in batches and I run tests on the batches. The 'ol multiply seconds by 3 or 4 bit. It's been working for me. Also, I use almost exclusively expired film of dubious nature. I've been told that HC-110 keeps the fog down.

 

[GarageBoy]

Hc110 dilution b should be 6.5 min or so at 20 deg c, right? I remember the time on the Kodak sheet was suspiciously low (like 3.75min)

 

[Petraio Prime]

Would using a higher dilution cut back on the harshness?

Not really. You would need to add sodium sulphite too.

 

[Cholentpot]

Hc110 dilution b should be 6.5 min or so at 20 deg c, right? I remember the time on the Kodak sheet was suspiciously low (like 3.75min)

I got about 6 min on the Tri-x and 7 on the Arista 400. I stuck with 7 on both. I have tolls of Lucky SDH that are done in 5. I leave in longer just because I feel it's too short.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

You can develop Tri-X in just about any developer and get good results.
My personal favorites are D-76 1:1 and HC-110 dilution B or H.

+1

I moght point out that Kodak developed HC-110 for commercial film processors to replace D-76 and provide almost the same results as for D-76. Kodak states that for HC-110 film speed, acutance and granularity are only "slightly different" from D-76.

 

[nosmok]

Expired old Tri-X rated @200 in Caffenol CH(RS), replace KBr with 3x as much iodized salt, 15 min, 68 deg F. Because there should be one Caffenol recipe for people to fight over. Plus it looks pretty good.

 

[Lachlan Young]

+1

I moght point out that Kodak developed HC-110 for commercial film processors to replace D-76 and provide almost the same results as for D-76. Kodak states that for HC-110 film speed, acutance and granularity are only "slightly different" from D-76.

I thought HC-110 was intended as a liquid concentrate to replace DK-50 & DK-60a in various dilutions & TMAX dev came along some time later, intended to (sort of) perform the same role for D-76?

 

[anfenglin]

Expired old Tri-X rated @200 in Caffenol CH(RS), replace KBr with 3x as much iodized salt, 15 min, 68 deg F. Because there should be one Caffenol recipe for people to fight over. Plus it looks pretty good.

I second Caffenol, i use fresh Tri-X 400 120 in Caffenol-C-H (rs). Just great.

 

[Adrian Bacon]

Just getting a consensus of opinion for developing chemicals that folks use for triX 400 film.
Thanks in advance for your opinions. Paul.

My preference is D76 1:1. It's been around forever and is a known good. Pretty much the standard BW film developer. You can do others, but if you want easy to use and reliable, D76 is it.