Kodak TMax dev availability? How to use TMax RS?

[GarageBoy]

So after visiting Adorama and B&H, found out that neither had TMax developer in stock. Is it still being made/packaged?

So I bought RS instead and realized I have to mix it all at once. Is there a way to mix A and B one shot? Thanks

 

[Roger Cole]

Yes. Just dump all of the little bottle of B solution into the big bottle of A solution and mix. Dilute for use one shot as usual. Many of us have been doing this since it came out with no problems at all.

 

[GarageBoy]

So A and B same bottle, then 1+4? Do I risk longevity issues doing it as so? Thanks

 

[Alan W]

This link contained all the info I needed for developing Tmax films,with Tmax rs-I used this info as a starting point for developing other films,I always add the pouch to the bottle and use 1 shot. http://www.largeformatphotography.info/articles/sexton-tmax.html

 

[Roger Cole]

So A and B same bottle, then 1+4? Do I risk longevity issues doing it as so? Thanks

No. That was my concern at first too. There was a thread somewhere on this, maybe LFPF, but IIRC the gist was that the parts weren't separated for longevity but for ease of replenishment. I don't recall the details, but I've kept a bottle combined for more than a year and it still worked fine (squeeze the air out before capping.)

I like to dilute more than 1+4 but that's a matter of taste. Some people use 1+6 or even 1+9. I don't like the midtones with 1+9. I like 1+6 fine but have tweaked mine to 1+5. YMMV of course.

 

[Roger Cole]

Oh yes, far be it from me to disagree with someone like Sexton, but I just haven't had that experience with D76 increasing in activity, at least not recently (I don't remember about 1987 when that was written.) It seems to be well buffered, or otherwise adjusted to prevent this problem these days. Film I've developed in D76 stored for a year in tightly capped bottles looks just like film developed in fresh D76 to me.

 

[Truzi]

No. That was my concern at first too. There was a thread somewhere on this, maybe LFPF, but IIRC the gist was that the parts weren't separated for longevity but for ease of replenishment. I don't recall the details, but I've kept a bottle combined for more than a year and it still worked fine (squeeze the air out before capping.)

I'd wondered about the little packet as well, but searching the internet did not turn up much info. I found only one or two references where people did not use the packet, and reported no problems.

What I don't understand is, considering the packet is supposed to be added to the full concentrate when first mixing, why would it be separated in the first place? Could it be to "season" the developer? If so, is there a reason that it would not come pre-seasoned (perhaps time-related degradation)?

 

[Roger Cole]

I know I read an explanation, I think on LFPF, and it made sense at the time, but I don't recall what it was. If I get time I'll try searching over there and see what I can find.

 

[Truzi]

The bottle of TMAX RS I have is from a camera shop that had closed, so I got a good price.

I had resolved to not add the packet, but if something definitive turns up before I start my testing, I will use it. I will continue to search as well.
From what I've read, the concentrate is quite long-lasting - I just need to know if the same is true of RS after the packet is added. Mixing as needed sounds like a good route for me to take, considering my low-volume of B&W film.

I'm slowly acquiring film and chemicals to try some things out in 35mm, so I've got some time. A recent Bronica acquisition has slowed me down a bit .

 

[removed account4]

The bottle of TMAX RS I have is from a camera shop that had closed, so I got a good price.

I had resolved to not add the packet, but if something definitive turns up before I start my testing, I will use it. I will continue to search as well.
From what I've read, the concentrate is quite long-lasting - I just need to know if the same is true of RS after the packet is added. Mixing as needed sounds like a good route for me to take, considering my low-volume of B&W film.

I'm slowly acquiring film and chemicals to try some things out in 35mm, so I've got some time. A recent Bronica acquisition has slowed me down a bit .

developer is cheap, time and effort exposing film can be priceless ... seeing time doesn't repeat itself ...
why risk ruining your film ...

if the developer consists of part a and part b and you don't plan on using part b ?
why use the developer at all ?

its like using xtol, but not mixing the 2 pouches together ..

don't forget if you poke a hole into the little pouch and only use a little at a time
because you don't want to risk the long life of the developer ( if mixed together )
you will probably kill the small pouch between development sessions ...

 

[MattKing]

The Kodak Data sheet for both T-Max and T-Max RS specifies exactly the same storage life for both - whether you refer to mixed working solution or concentrate.

Here is the link: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j86/j86.pdf

 

[Truzi]

if the developer consists of part a and part b and you don't plan on using part b ?
why use the developer at all ?

Because I got it cheap with a bunch of stuff when a camera store closed

Seriously, though, it is a very small additive and I cannot find what it is for. While many attest to the longevity of TMAX mixed as needed, I've found few with the equivalent information for the RS version (after adding the packet, but not working solution).

I think the Kodak data is for working solution and unused concentrate. I don't think it includes dipping into the concentrate as needed, let alone with the packet added to the RS yet not a working solution. I could be wrong; been reading too many PDFs lately.

I doubt the B packet makes the difference between regular TMAX and RS, but one does wonder. That is why I've been searching for information on it. One can assume it is necessary or not - both are just assumptions.

For my purposes at the moment, however, I will be testing/comparing developers with a great deal of identically exposed rolls of film - all will be quite boring. So I might as well mix it - but then I'll not know what happens if I don't.

On second thought, since I'm wasting a bunch of film and chemicals to satisfy my own curiosity, I suppose I can wast 6 more rolls and divide the RS into "with B" and with "without B."

 

[MattKing]

The RS version is designed to permit use in a replenishment regime, and the non-RS version isn't.

The non-RS version has problems with dichroic fog when used with sheet film, and Kodak recommends against using it with sheet film. The RS version is recommended for use with sheet film.

The data sheet is fairly informative:

"T-MAX Developer is intended for use in unreplenished systems. For replenished systems, use T-MAX RS Developer and Replenisher. T-MAX RS Developer and Replenisher is a hydroquinone-based, two-part developer specially formulated for replenished systems, but you can also use it in unreplenished systems.
T-MAX Developer is available as a one-part concentrate in sizes to make one gallon and five gallons of working solution. You can easily mix smaller volumes by mixing one part of the concentrate with four parts water. T-MAX RS Developer and Replenisher is available in convenient sizes to make one gallon and ten gallons of solution; use this solution as a working-tank solution or a replenisher. The ten-gallon size consists of two separate units, each to make five gallons of solution."

 

[Truzi]

In the areas I am knowledgeable, I have no problem going against some manufacturer recommendations because I know enough about it to do so safely and achieve the purpose I want (and am willing to suffer the consequences).
I'm trying to get there in this area, though chemistry is one of my weak suits in general, let alone how it applies to absolutely anything in the real world.

(In my last post I said "unused" concentrate, I meant "unopened." Sorry, I am usually more precise than this when communicating via writing. In person, not so much .)

 

[Roger Cole]

Many people including John Sexton have been using it this way since it came out. I use T-Max RS one shot because I use it with sheet film, because I think the results are often subtly superior to the non-RS even without sheet film (but have trouble telling you why) and because I'm used to it. This works.

I found that thread for you. Reminds me that I was doing this the hard way too until I read this - and this simplified my life.

http://www.largeformatphotography.i...73585-TMax-RS-developer-as-quot-one-shot-quot

Or if you aren't a member and don't want to join, Google is your friend:

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/archive/index.php/t-73585.html

 

[GarageBoy]

Thanks so much. I'll just mix and use it up and buy more if it goes bad

 

[removed account4]

The RS version is designed to permit use in a replenishment regime, and the non-RS version isn't.

The non-RS version has problems with dichroic fog when used with sheet film, and Kodak recommends against using it with sheet film. The RS version is recommended for use with sheet film.

The data sheet is fairly informative:

"T-MAX Developer is intended for use in unreplenished systems. For replenished systems, use T-MAX RS Developer and Replenisher. T-MAX RS Developer and Replenisher is a hydroquinone-based, two-part developer specially formulated for replenished systems, but you can also use it in unreplenished systems.
T-MAX Developer is available as a one-part concentrate in sizes to make one gallon and five gallons of working solution. You can easily mix smaller volumes by mixing one part of the concentrate with four parts water. T-MAX RS Developer and Replenisher is available in convenient sizes to make one gallon and ten gallons of solution; use this solution as a working-tank solution or a replenisher. The ten-gallon size consists of two separate units, each to make five gallons of solution."

years ago on the advice of someone at kodak ( who must have mixed up the differences between rs version and the non rs version )
i used the non rs version with sheet film.
my tests came out fine, so i did a bunch of film ( 4x5 ) with it for a job, and it all ended up with dichroic fog.
i won't use the developer again ...

THEN i was told to throw away all my film because it was no good ...

i spoke to paul krot, the founder of sprint systems of photography, and he helped me save my film
using farmer's reducer. if i am to use a off the shelf developer, i'd use sprint any day of the week ...

best of luck with your developer !