Kodak Retina IIIc

[Nikon Collector]

I normaly shoot Nikon SLR's. Several years ago, a friend gave me a nice kodak retina iiic in the original leather case. I ran a couple of rolls of plus x through it and then sat it on a shelf. Last night I got the idea of useing it as a carry around camera. Unfortunately the idle time wasn't good for it, the built in meter has quit working and the shutter speeds below 1/60th seem slow and the slow speeds are way off, 1 sec is closer to 5. Is the camera worth repairing or should I just put it back on the shelf in my collection?

 

[mr rusty]

I have a 11c which I sometimes carry. As to whether its worth having repaired depends on your point of view. (I presume it is a iiic and not a iiiC with the bigger viewfinder - these are worth 2x the small c at least - not really sure why because the difference in useability is small).

The dead meter might spring back to life if all the contacts/joints are checked, and may not in which case a "new" one might be needed. Wouldn't bother too much as its not much more accurate than sunny 16 anyway.

Regard to the shutter. All it will be is that the shutter lubricants have got sticky. They may also have migrated to the shutter leaves causing them to glue together. It needs a CLA, but you could have a go yourself first. If you remove the front lens you will see a screw ring which is secured by a tiny set screw (very tiny - take care!). If you remove the set screw the ring unscrews - mark its location first so it goes back the same. Then the discs underneath (they are quite easy to re-assemble provided you are careful) and you will expose the shutter innards. Flooding with alcohol based cleaner ( I use spray contact cleaner) followed by very sparing lube with watch oil on the obvious contact, rotating and sliding parts will quite likely get everything working again. If not you are no worse off, and can send it for a proper CLA.

Definitely worth having sorted - the lenses are pin sharp and the retinas are an easy camera to carry around.

Rick Oleson has a few words and pix of similar unit here http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-55.html

 

[Rol_Lei Nut]

I would try a self-repair, but using cigarette lighter fluid instead.
A drop or 2 in the right places (at the edges of the shutter blades themselves, trying to get it inside the shutter body) will dissolve and re-distribute old oils. Fire the shutter at low speeds repeatedly after applying the fluid.
Once the first drop has dried and the shutter still isn't right, try another.
Once you've finished, use a soft cloth dampened with more fluid to clean any oily residue on the shutter blades.

I've had a better than 50% success rate with this method.

It isn't a long term substitue for a "real" CLA, especially if the camera is going to be used a lot, but it's fine for you to check the camera out and decide if you really will be using it intensively.

 

[Ian Grant]

Second Rol lei nut's suggestion, I use Iso-propanol but the effect is the same, a few drops has revive almost of my older Leaf shutters, which now all run smoothly at slower speeds and are accurate.

Ian

 

[ricksplace]

Great camera. I use mine a lot. The Xenon lens is wonderful. The accessory lenses (80mm and 35mm) are great performers too. I agree with above regarding the meter. Mine was just a loose connection, compounded by a resultant short. Meter is surprisingly accurate on mine.

 

[Steve Smith]

Whilst the iso-propanol trick does work (and I have done it myself a few times) if the shutter speeds from 1/60 and faster are (or seem) o.k. it may be worth just using it for two or three films as it is. This use may free it up a bit.

It may also be that below 1/60 is where the slow speed escapement gets engaged so even if this jams up totally, the faster speeds may not be affected.


Steve.

 

[David Brown]

Is the camera worth repairing ... ?

Apparently:

http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/pho/1551816722.html

:rolleyes:

 

[Morry Katz]

I recently bought a Retina IIIc. It's lovely, but I'm wondering if there is a way to unlock the shutter speed and aperture connection? Could not find an instruction manual. Thanks.
Morry Katz - Lethbridge

 

[Nikon Collector]

Thanx, I'll try that this weekend if I'm off. Liked the camera when I used it b4, and thinking it would be a good carry around camera.

 

[Anscojohn]

One of the Retina IIIs is more valuable than the other. There is a Large C and a Small C. Which is which and why the difference? TIA

 

[Whiteymorange]

One of the Retina IIIs is more valuable than the other. There is a Large C and a Small C. Which is which and why the difference? TIA

Big C has a larger viewfinder/rangefinder window, among other things

Check here for the manual.

 

[elekm]

The capital letter models generally are a bit more valuable than their lowercase siblings: IB vs Ib, IIC vs. IIc and IIIC vs. IIIc.

In the case of the IB, it has a selenium meter and a bigger and brighter viewfinder.

In the case of the IIC, it has a bigger and brighter viewfinder plus framelines for 35-50-85.

In the case of the IIIC, it has a bigger and brighter viewfinder plus framelines for 35-50-85 and a single-range meter (no flap). Note that some IIIc models were fitted with the single-range meters.

Kodak AG tended to intermingle some parts as one camera model ended and another began.

 

[Nikon Collector]

Tried the lighter fluid and 2 drops made a world of difference, cain't test for accuracy but they sound about right, ie 1sec is 1 sec and 1/2 seems like half of that,etc, etc, now if I can just find a good set of auxillary lenses for it.

 

[roresteen]

I got a Retina I viewfinder last summer in great shape. Focus by guess, exposure by sunny 16. Active ingridient by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/roboresteen/sets/72157623140587309/">Fuji Velvia 50</a>. Can't wait to run chrome and HP5 through it when things warm up.

 

[ricksplace]

I recently bought a Retina IIIc. It's lovely, but I'm wondering if there is a way to unlock the shutter speed and aperture connection? Could not find an instruction manual. Thanks.
Morry Katz - Lethbridge

There is a little silver gizmo that couples the two together. If you pull down on the gizmo, you can move one without the other. Look on the bottom of the lens (it's hidden from the top view of the camera).