Excellent. I just shot a roll of Kentmere through my iia gifted by the best looking man on Photrio!
Previously had bent struts, nothing was in focus. Thanks to Paul B., I have now a fun camera with a great look and feel to it.
My developing could use some help for sure, but that is OK.
Sometimes I dont care so much for the super science and super hard work.. that I know a lot of you have put into your Photo efforts
Old building in my town, "scanned" with a D700, 28-105 lens in Macro mode. 510-pyro, 25min minimum agitation.
View attachment 332557
Assuming you're referring to the frame-1 interlock, I suspect that Paul Barden knows how to defeat it.
Talking about the shutter and aperture being linked. You need to pull down on a tab to adjust them separately.
That can be defeated also. I show how in my web-site:
Defeating LVS in the Retina IIIc/IIc/Ib
I also got my Yashica Lynx 1000 back from Mark Hamas today. What a joy it is to have these two cameras that now seem like new.
Coincidentally, I received a Yashica YK back from. Mr. Hama today that had been in his shop since last spring. The long lead time must’ve been a parts availability issue but the YK looks and feels brand new. I do need a Retina IIa serviced - what is Paul B’s contact info, please?
Stan
Does doing this modification make the level loose? Will it stay in it's proper setting or does it get easily jarred or knocked out of place?
So that's your website. Interesting.
Does doing this modification make the level loose? Will it stay in it's proper setting or does it get easily jarred or knocked out of place?
Most people who make this modification end up regretting it: a strong breeze will shift the position of the aperture lever when its no longer coupled to the speed selector ring.
You'd be better off acquiring a Retina II or IIa, neither of which suffer from the "EV link" problem, rather than modifying a perfectly good IIIc type.This is why I haven't done it yet. Might be worth getting a busted up Retina and modifying the part off of that camera. I'll then have the original part in case I don't like how it feels.
You'd be better off acquiring a Retina II or IIa, neither of which suffer from the "EV link" problem, rather than modifying a perfectly good IIIc type.
Do you recommended the II or IIa?
Postwar Type 016 IIa. These were manufactured between 1951 and 1954, offer a lot of innovation over the previous models wile maintaining its pocketable size. The IIa has a top mounted lever advance, the shutter speeds and aperture can be set independently. Also, they don’t suffer from stripped cocking racks like the bottom winders do. The Schneider 50 2.0 lens is most common but they can be found with the Rodenstock Heligon.
I’ve owned a IIIc, two IIc’s and two IIa’s and the IIa was the best to use. Paul can do the service and it’s worth it. These are seventy year old cameras. The other advantage of the IIa is the relatively short space between the supply side and the take up spool often providing an extra frame or two.
Postwar Type 016 IIa. These were manufactured between 1951 and 1954, offer a lot of innovation over the previous models wile maintaining its pocketable size. The IIa has a top mounted lever advance, the shutter speeds and aperture can be set independently. Also, they don’t suffer from stripped cocking racks like the bottom winders do. The Schneider 50 2.0 lens is most common but they can be found with the Rodenstock Heligon.
I’ve owned a IIIc, two IIc’s and two IIa’s and the IIa was the best to use. Paul can do the service and it’s worth it. These are seventy year old cameras. The other advantage of the IIa is the relatively short space between the supply side and the take up spool often providing an extra frame or two.
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