Kodak Retina IIa - repaired

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bryans_tx

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Previously had bent struts, nothing was in focus. Thanks to Paul B., I have now a fun camera with a great look and feel to it.
My developing could use some help for sure, but that is OK.
Sometimes I dont care so much for the super science and super hard work.. that I know a lot of you have put into your Photo efforts :smile:

Old building in my town, "scanned" with a D700, 28-105 lens in Macro mode. 510-pyro, 25min minimum agitation.

BS3_3228-1.jpg
 

Huss

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Excellent. I just shot a roll of Kentmere through my iia gifted by the best looking man on Photrio!







The Retina iia is a much better and easier to use camera than my old zeiss contessa or Voigtlander Vitessa.
 

madNbad

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Excellent. I just shot a roll of Kentmere through my iia gifted by the best looking man on Photrio!

Thank you, Huss. I am kinda fat and still move like Chester from Gunsmoke more than I would like. I figure after a few rolls through the Retina, it will make you appreciate the N80 even more!
 

Cholentpot

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Previously had bent struts, nothing was in focus. Thanks to Paul B., I have now a fun camera with a great look and feel to it.
My developing could use some help for sure, but that is OK.
Sometimes I dont care so much for the super science and super hard work.. that I know a lot of you have put into your Photo efforts :smile:

Old building in my town, "scanned" with a D700, 28-105 lens in Macro mode. 510-pyro, 25min minimum agitation.

View attachment 332557

Paul is the man. Love my IIC, hate the !@$# interlock though.
 

albada

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Assuming you're referring to the frame-1 interlock, I suspect that Paul Barden knows how to defeat it.
 

Cholentpot

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Assuming you're referring to the frame-1 interlock, I suspect that Paul Barden knows how to defeat it.

Talking about the shutter and aperture being linked. You need to pull down on a tab to adjust them separately.
 
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bryans_tx

bryans_tx

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it was the struts that move and hold the bellows and lens out. Lens plane was way off from the film plane :wink:
 
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bryans_tx

bryans_tx

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I also got my Yashica Lynx 1000 back from Mark Hamas today. What a joy it is to have these two cameras that now seem like new.
 

StanMac

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I also got my Yashica Lynx 1000 back from Mark Hamas today. What a joy it is to have these two cameras that now seem like new.

Coincidentally, I received a Yashica YK back from. Mr. Hama today that had been in his shop since last spring. The long lead time must’ve been a parts availability issue but the YK looks and feels brand new. I do need a Retina IIa serviced - what is Paul B’s contact info, please?

Stan
 
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bryans_tx

bryans_tx

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Paul Barden.

he is on the forums here as well. A pleasure to work with.
 

madNbad

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Coincidentally, I received a Yashica YK back from. Mr. Hama today that had been in his shop since last spring. The long lead time must’ve been a parts availability issue but the YK looks and feels brand new. I do need a Retina IIa serviced - what is Paul B’s contact info, please?

Stan

Paul Barden is in Corvallis, Oregon and is a regular poster on this site. His work on Retinas is outstanding and finds problems other repair shops have missed. I can recommend him as one of the best to service the little Kodaks. If you have a Retina and want it to work flawlessly, send it to him.
 

albada

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Does doing this modification make the level loose? Will it stay in it's proper setting or does it get easily jarred or knocked out of place?

The lever will have a little friction to hold it in place, but not much. Bumping it will move it.
 
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So that's your website. Interesting.

Does doing this modification make the level loose? Will it stay in it's proper setting or does it get easily jarred or knocked out of place?

Most people who make this modification end up regretting it: a strong breeze will shift the position of the aperture lever when its no longer coupled to the speed selector ring.
 

Cholentpot

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Most people who make this modification end up regretting it: a strong breeze will shift the position of the aperture lever when its no longer coupled to the speed selector ring.

This is why I haven't done it yet. Might be worth getting a busted up Retina and modifying the part off of that camera. I'll then have the original part in case I don't like how it feels.
 
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This is why I haven't done it yet. Might be worth getting a busted up Retina and modifying the part off of that camera. I'll then have the original part in case I don't like how it feels.
You'd be better off acquiring a Retina II or IIa, neither of which suffer from the "EV link" problem, rather than modifying a perfectly good IIIc type.
 

madNbad

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Do you recommended the II or IIa?

Postwar Type 016 IIa. These were manufactured between 1951 and 1954, offer a lot of innovation over the previous models wile maintaining its pocketable size. The IIa has a top mounted lever advance, the shutter speeds and aperture can be set independently. Also, they don’t suffer from stripped cocking racks like the bottom winders do. The Schneider 50 2.0 lens is most common but they can be found with the Rodenstock Heligon.
I’ve owned a IIIc, two IIc’s and two IIa’s and the IIa was the best to use. Paul can do the service and it’s worth it. These are seventy year old cameras. The other advantage of the IIa is the relatively short space between the supply side and the take up spool often providing an extra frame or two.
 
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Postwar Type 016 IIa. These were manufactured between 1951 and 1954, offer a lot of innovation over the previous models wile maintaining its pocketable size. The IIa has a top mounted lever advance, the shutter speeds and aperture can be set independently. Also, they don’t suffer from stripped cocking racks like the bottom winders do. The Schneider 50 2.0 lens is most common but they can be found with the Rodenstock Heligon.
I’ve owned a IIIc, two IIc’s and two IIa’s and the IIa was the best to use. Paul can do the service and it’s worth it. These are seventy year old cameras. The other advantage of the IIa is the relatively short space between the supply side and the take up spool often providing an extra frame or two.

Exactly. Well said.
Though there's nothing wrong with the Retina II - it simply lacks the all-in-one action of advancing the film and cocking the shutter at the same time. Admittedly that's a big convenience the Retina II lacks. Make sure you get the Type 016 version of the IIa. Don't bother with earlier iterations.
 
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albada

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Postwar Type 016 IIa. These were manufactured between 1951 and 1954, offer a lot of innovation over the previous models wile maintaining its pocketable size. The IIa has a top mounted lever advance, the shutter speeds and aperture can be set independently. Also, they don’t suffer from stripped cocking racks like the bottom winders do. The Schneider 50 2.0 lens is most common but they can be found with the Rodenstock Heligon.
I’ve owned a IIIc, two IIc’s and two IIa’s and the IIa was the best to use. Paul can do the service and it’s worth it. These are seventy year old cameras. The other advantage of the IIa is the relatively short space between the supply side and the take up spool often providing an extra frame or two.

Agreed.
Be aware that the IIa has a few disadvantages:
  • No framelines.
  • The film-counter is usually inop due to an overstressed spring which breaks;
  • The Xenon lens often has some unremovable haze on the two surfaces facing the blades. Heligons don't have this problem. On the positive side, I've shot with a couple of IIa's that had minor haze, and the haze did not appear to hurt photos.
Mark
 
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