Kodak Quality Control Slipping?

Craig

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I feel this way about FP4+. Flat and featureless. And that's really, really difficult to do in the Arizona sun.

I did a print today that I think is probably in the 5 best I've ever made - off FP4! Horses for courses I guess.
 

Craig

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Anyone who will be boycotting Kodak should let me know so that I can buy up the film that they are boycotting.

I wouldn't say I've boycotted Kodak. I like Portra and Ektar. I can't justify buying B&W over Ilford on any rational grounds. As I mentioned, in 120 size it's $18.21 a roll vs $6.90. That ads up in a hurry! Not as bad in 4x5, $3.60 a sheet vs $2.29, but still significant. If (big if) T max was superior to the Delta family, I don't think it's twice as good to justify the price difference.
 

RattyMouse

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Seven customers is one hell of a collective.

Wow, you are really really simplistic. Things you can't see don't exist.

Try out these business stats:

1. 70% of buying experiences are based on how the customer feels they are being treated.
2. For every customer complaint there are 26 other unhappy customers who have remained silent.
3. 96% of unhappy customers don’t complain, however 91% of those will simply leave and never come back.
4. A dissatisfied customer will tell between 9-15 people about their experience. Around 13% of dissatisfied customers tell more than 20 people.
5. It costs 6–7 times more to acquire a new customer than retain an existing one.

Keep believing it's just 7 people. It's hubris like that that sank Kodak the first time.
 

MattKing

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Craig:
My best local source has similar to each other (quite high) prices on 120 rolls of TMY-2 or Delta 400. It may be prudent for you to stock up on Delta 400 at that price - it might be a mistake!
 
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...Rather than switching to B&H, I'll stay with Ilford and my local supply chain, with the added bonus of knowing each frame won't be contaminated. Seems like a reasonable thing to do, no?
Only reasonable if:
  • You are unable to discern how much better 120 TMY-2 is than other 400-speed black and white films of the same size
  • You're unwilling to cross check emulsion numbers against the list of those with defective backing paper
  • You and fellow Canadians have a nationwide problem with ripoff prices for Kodak films, i.e. it's not your local photo store responsible for the exorbitant pricing
  • There aren't enough Canadians who appreciate the superiority of TMY-2 to put together a large order and take advantage of B&H pricing.
Otherwise, no, not reasonable.
 
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...Seven customers is one hell of a collective. ...
Wow, you are really really simplistic...
Continued ad hominem attacks only serve to cement your reputation among those reading APUG. They do nothing to advance your 'cause.' It appears you've taken some business courses, as have others. While those "stats" might be of some relevance in the general consumer marketplace, whether they apply to analog film in 2017 is questionable. This isn't breakfast cereal with huge numbers of choices available. There are but two first-tier manufacturers of 120 400-speed black and white negative film. Those who use that product generally acknowledge the substantial superiority of TMY-2. In my opinion, which you will undoubtedly denigrate, happy consumers of TMAX 400 vastly outnumber outnumber those who are dissatisfied with how Kodak handled the backing paper issue. They will communicate their enthusiasm to many, many more potential customers than the discontented will share their complaint/rant with.
...Keep believing it's just 7 people...
Seven, 17, 70, 105, 140. Still a drop in the bucket compared to Kodak's worldwide market. It might not be wise to over estimate the effect of an APUG bitch fest. Kodak probably decided not to use its advertising budget here after researching that.
...It's hubris like that that sank Kodak the first time.
As far as I can tell, Kodak is in business, coating and selling film and introducing new film products. What 120 black and white 400-speed film has Fujifilm introduced lately?
 

Photo Engineer

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Hubris sank Kodak? I'm not sure. I think it was more a series of bad decisions. No one can really say at this time.

PE
 

RattyMouse

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Continued ad hominem attacks only serve to cement your reputation among those reading APUG. They do nothing to advance your 'cause.'

I'm sorry. I should have said, you have a very simplistic view of the world.


Just like Kodak, you miss the big picture. Film still does compete with digital. I can *easily* see someone shooting defective Kodak film and deciding that film isnt worth the trouble and revert back to digital.


More hubris. A seemingly limitless supply. Few companies crap all over their customers and walk away unscathed.
 

Craig

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  • You are unable to discern how much better 120 TMY-2 is than other 400-speed black and white films of the same size
I can't say as I've seen this apparent great superiority in my negatives, no. What's so superior about it that I am apparently blind to?

If I do order film from B&H and it comes from the defective batches, then what? Will Kodak Alairis sent me replacement film across the border? So many of these things are USA only. Will Kodak Canada say tough luck because you didn't buy it from an authorized Kodak Canada distributor? So months later I could be sitting on a pile of defective film nobody will touch? Doesn't help me if I need the film today and it arrives from B&H in the defective batch.

I know the owners of my local store quite well, they say that there is basically no margin in Kodak film any more just a few % in order to keep the prices out of the stratosphere. Not surprisingly, they sell a lot more Ilford and always have it in stock so it's fresh.

Personally, I have no interest in going through the gymnastics of a bulk group buy. I'd rather buy a few rolls/ sheets shoot them, and then buy more locally.

My default B&W film is Delta 100, I've had some amazing results off that when developed in Xtol. Low light work is Fuji Acros for it's reciprocity characteristics.
 

Craig

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Craig:
My best local source has similar to each other (quite high) prices on 120 rolls of TMY-2 or Delta 400. It may be prudent for you to stock up on Delta 400 at that price - it might be a mistake!

Their price seems to have been quite consistent over time. With the Pound falling rather than rising I wouldn't expect to see any price increases on Ilford here in Canada.
 
OP
OP

Chadinko

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I did a print today that I think is probably in the 5 best I've ever made - off FP4! Horses for courses I guess.

I'm probably not shooting it correctly. Or developing it right. But then I'm not nearly as picky about my films and developers and technique as some here are. I shot 35mm FP4+ in college but since I've restarted my darkroom I've not shot much Ilford or Kodak, mainly because the cost is so much higher than with the Fomapan.


The price is precisely why I don't shoot either Ilford OR Kodak, very often anyway. The Arista -- I suppose it's a second- or third-tier film? -- is for me a great deal for a number of reasons. In ASA 100 (I don't shoot 400 much because many of the cameras I use have slowish maximum shutter speeds) I can get Arista in all the formats I shoot: 135, 120, 2.25x3.25, and 4x5. 120 comes in at about $3.30 a roll or so, and 50 sheets of 4x5 is about $34 or 68 cents a sheet. Price-wise it's hard to beat it, and I do like the results, though I have very little experience with other films in the larger formats to compare it to. The more I can buy, the more I can shoot, and as I have 25-30 different cameras in my functioning stable (actually, sitting atop my piano) and I enjoy using them all I can afford to use them.

I have one 20-sheet box of Provia in 4x5 in my fridge, waiting for a certain road trip to break it out and shoot it. And now I have five rolls of Ektar 100 I can shoot too.

Maybe I'm too simplistic?
 

MattKing

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If I do order film from B&H and it comes from the defective batches, then what? Will Kodak Alairis sent me replacement film across the border?
No problem whatsoever, wherever you bought it. My 30 rolls within the batches identified as being susceptible to the problem may have come from several sources - some US, others Canada. I contacted Mr. Mooney by email, indicated that I was reluctant to use the film. He arranged to have replacement film couriered to my door in Delta BC Canada from Rochester New York.
My initial email was sent May 14, 2016. He responded to me on May 23, 2016 with (after apologizing for the delay in response) an offer to send replacement film. I sent him my address that day. I received an email the next day confirming dispatch. IIRC, I had it in hand in a couple of days.
He and I had previously corresponded about this and other issues (concerning Canadian distribution), but at no time have I ever been treated as anything other than a valued customer.
 
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...You are unable to discern how much better 120 TMY-2 is than other 400-speed black and white films of the same size...

...I can't say as I've seen this apparent great superiority in my negatives, no. What's so superior about it that I am apparently blind to?...
Among 400-speed 120 black and white films available from first-tier manufacturers, TMY-2 has superior spectral response, a more linear characteristic curve (while offering the ability to modify that curve's shape via developer choice), finer grain, and better reciprocity performance. Its 4.7 mil base is thicker than the others', affording easier darkroom handling and greater flatness in glassless negative carriers. Negatives made on TMY-2 exhibit good acutance, something lacking in TMX, which, despite high resolution performance, doesn't look "sharp."

...If I do order film from B&H and it comes from the defective batches, then what? Will Kodak Alairis sent me replacement film across the border?...
I've not had reason to determine that. You should easily be able to by sending the question to Thomas Mooney:


He's always been extremely responsive to questions. He might even be interested in knowing about the unbalanced retail pricing in your area.

...My default B&W film is Delta 100, I've had some amazing results off that when developed in Xtol. Low light work is Fuji Acros for it's reciprocity characteristics.
When lower speed black and white is my goal, I too use Delta 100 developed in XTOL. It's much sharper than TMAX 100. In 120, I put up with its thinner base despite that and the need to deal with its less linear characteristic curve. As for 120 Acros, in 50 years of processing roll films I've never come across a more difficult one to load onto reels. It's the most springy, flexible base imaginable. Regardless of whether using Hewes stainless or Paterson plastic. Then, irrespective of water presoaking or not, bubbles always plague the negatives. I've found no way to eliminate resultant circular spots at the top edge of 120 Acros with inversion agitation. A double presoak minimized them, but still some appear at random. Sheet Acros in a rotating Jobo Expert drum gets around the problem, but sheet isn't roll.

As for immunity to reciprocity failure, Acros is the undisputed champion. However, unless you're making extremely long exposures (at night, for example), I've found TMY-2 to be just as good in most situations.
 

MattKing

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Ilford has one single Canadian distributor - Amplis.
There are all sorts of distributors in Canada who offer different parts of the Kodak Alaris lineup. Some cater to photofinishers, others cater to retail outlets that might have a few rolls of film on the shelf, others cater to Kodak Alaris' business products. Their product lines overlap, and their film prices seem to fluctuate greatly. They may be buying from other middlemen themselves.
It is a mess.
I'm not going to say anything against any of the Ilford products, because they are of high quality. But TMY-2 is really high quality, and it has extraordinary qualities as well,
 

RattyMouse

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. As for 120 Acros, in 50 years of processing roll films I've never come across a more difficult one to load onto reels. It's the most springy, flexible base imaginable. Regardless of whether using Hewes stainless or Paterson plastic.

Odd. I've loaded a good 500 rolls or more of Acros onto Paterson reels without any issues whatsoever. Typically 20 seconds is all I need to load a 120 piece of film onto a reel.


Those same 500+ rolls I loaded onto the Paterson reels were then developed by me, mostly in Kodak HC-110, D-76, or rarely, DD-X.

Never had a bubble problem at all. In fact, never had a bubble cause a mark on the negatives. Not. One.

Maybe in 50 years you should have looked at your processing and found the problem.
 

RattyMouse

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Wait!!! You used Kodak Developers? Any quality problems with the developers?

PE

I've used 3 liters of HC-110 in China, interspersed with an unknown number of gallons of D-76. I never had any issues at all with those developers. They never failed me once.

I always wanted to give XTOL a try but never got around to it.
 

Sirius Glass

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Now I am impressed. I never process more than four rolls at a time and you do 500 at once! Hats off to you.
 

LAG

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Excuse me

A lot to read since my last post. With my deepest respect to everyone, I believe it's a shame that this thread ends up like the rest about this matter, people arguing with people (I'm more handsome than you, I'm cheaper, I have more quality than anyone ...) or taking a look at the past, instead of people discussing the problem to see a solution coming. I take my share of the blame while posting, and of course apologise for it. A pleasure to have been able to help in some way (or not) or at least to have left something written to think about.

I think I have found a way to get some film affected, I will try to contribute something if I get it, and after what I get.

I'll keep one eye on this
Regards
 

RattyMouse

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Yet more "attack the messenger." Perhaps you should research the threads on APUG describing Acros bubbles/spots.

I must be damn good to process hundreds of rolls of Acros in my little Paterson tank and NEVER once seeing a bubble on my film. And if you read my posting history, I have had a LOT of foam in my developing tanks. Tons of foam. Yet never a mark on my film. Magic!
 

MartinP

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Kodak, on the other hand, had probably been working down a much larger backing paper stockpile, so likely didn't discover the issue until later.

This implies that Kodak do no tests on materials from external suppliers. That may be feasible when buying commodity components (eg. a bolt) manufactured in an ISO9000 (or is it 9001?) company and guaranteed by the supplier, but paper and ink are products that are known to 'age' and there is allegedly no alternate source. It seems odd that the time 'cushion' provided by an existing stock of material would not be used to test it's replacement.

The problem has been seen in Ilford products, way back last century a certain Mr.Bailey had to abandon most of the results of a shoot in Tahiti (some hot place like that anyway). And Foma tried a new source of backing-paper a decade ago, only to find that it could scratch film under certain circumstances. Despite this sort of thing, isn't 120 the oldest surviving roll format?!

(Edited to remove the broken quoting).
 
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Mike Kukulski

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Just got film back today from North Coast Photographic Services (NCPS), Portra 160 and Ektar 100. Scans on some rolls, but not all frames on each roll, showed printing artifacts from the backing paper. Examination of the negatives on light box with loupe revealed that the printing artifacts are on the negatives. This film was bought new, refrigerated before use, but these rolls were exposed last winter and just recently developed. I complained to NCPS about bad processing, but it seems to be the problem discussed in this thread. Example image attached - not a good photo, but it very strongly shows the problem.

 

MattKing

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I'm disappointed this happened to you.
Do you have any idea what the "Develop Before" date or emulsion batch number for the film was?
I would guess that exposing the film and then waiting so long before developing it would increase the likelihood that a roll susceptible to the problem might show the problem.
But that is in no way an indication that I think that this problem is your fault.
 
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