Kodak Pony Premo 3 basic questions

[toomanyhandles]

Hello!
I have been reading "everyplace" I could find for several months, I quite like RPPC and wanted to try to work with the same cameras used for that format. That said, I do like the idea of plates more than film, with the idea of scanning plates. And not messing with developing both the film and prints.

I watched online for a while but finding the elusive plate backs for the Kodak 2A and similar models seems hard- chatting with folks on forums and on ebay so many people have never seen one.

I found a Kodak Premo 3 4x5 locally that came with a few plate holders, and got that!

The leather on the body is pretty crispy, stabilizing that is my first thing and that will take a bit of time and care. The bellows are in good shape, although I want to hydrate those as well. The mechanics seem alright, I will see about setting something up to check the shutter timings.

I have a couple basic questions that I still have not figured out, and some ideas that may or may not be practical.

-this Premo 3 has its ground glass plate intact. I have read the original manual and "the ground glass is spring-loaded" so it drops out of the way, to insert a plate ,some words to that effect. I didn't see that the manual showed well how to insert a 4x5 plate and also keep the ground glass in or out via a spring load? And frankly I haven't figured out yet how to pull out the ground glass and its holder, things are pretty tight there. Once I glue down and soften the external leather I'll feel more able to push/pull on things, but... am I missing something super obvious in how to focus with the ground glass and then put in a plate cassette for imaging?

-Several of the 4x5 cassettes I have came with their original plate, now long ruined. For checking that everything is light-tight, my thought is I could just use cut photo paper, tape it to the image plate, and expose that. Maybe even just using the UV-sensitive pink paper I last used in grade school. Would using some imaging paper, or even later, film, taped to the glass imaging plate be in the right focal plane for image purpose? For sure it would work for a light-tight check, I expect.

Right now I will first be gluing down the body leather in a few places, then moisturizing it. Per the how-to guide from Kodak on bellows camera restoration. I have read all kinds of things about what to use for leather conditioner, for body and bellows. The outside is black so darkening it with Lexol is not an issue but I read a few places that for quite crispy leather, Lexol may just make it fall apart. So I am interested in other suggestions. I am in the USA, for brand names to suggest.

I am really looking forward to cleaning and restoring this camera for use with plates. That said, I haven't seen a film canister back for this come up yet, is it compatible with other models in that regard? If so, which ones?

Thank you for thoughts-

Brian.

 

[SteveInNZ]

I'm pretty new to this too so my terminology may be wrong but I'm using a Premo #2 and have a disemboweled #3. The #3 has a focus knob that the #2 doesn't. Otherwise they're the same.

The back section that I've labelled 'A' contains the ground glass and the plate holder holder (?). You can lift the two clips (B) and lift the back section a little and it comes free. You can then orient it for portrait or landscape as you desire. You open the cover (C) to see the ground glass for composition and focus with the shutter open using the 'T' setting. The spring loaded thing is labelled D. Put your finger in the recess and it will pull back to allow you to insert a plate holder. The ground glass is now behind the plate holder and out of the way. Close the shutter, set it to the speed you want and the aperture, remove the dark slide and make it go click. Replace the dark slide and remove the plate holder.

One thing I like about the Premo's is that you can use a modern 4x5 film holder like a Riteway, Fidelity, etc, rather than trying to adjust for the plate thickness with the original holders.

Hope that gets you started.

Steve.

 

[Tel]

I've refurbished a number of old cameras of similar design and vintage. Some had leather coverings that were too far gone to restore, but four or five were nearly completely intact but very very dry. On the recommendation of a friend who does book preservation professionally, I tried Pecard's leather dressing and was very happy with the results. It's a slow process--repeated applications over several weeks, allowing the paste to absorb completely between, but the leather responded very well. And I have always applied the dressing before gluing down any of the bits that have peeled up.

 

[toomanyhandles]

I'm pretty new to this too so my terminology may be wrong but I'm using a Premo #2 and have a disemboweled #3. The #3 has a focus knob that the #2 doesn't. Otherwise they're the same.
[...]
Hope that gets you started.

Steve.

Hi Steve- wow, that is great, thank you. It is a little stiff and I didn't want to wrench it too much until I fix up the leather more, but 'D' in your images is exactly what I was looking for. I was not yet ready to get a little brave with it ; )

That is a great tip about the 4x5 film Riteway etc film cartridges. That is a really neat option to have and those are available used pretty cheaply!

Thank you;

Brian.

 

[toomanyhandles]

I've refurbished a number of old cameras of similar design and vintage. Some had leather coverings that were too far gone to restore, but four or five were nearly completely intact but very very dry. On the recommendation of a friend who does book preservation professionally, I tried Pecard's leather dressing and was very happy with the results. It's a slow process--repeated applications over several weeks, allowing the paste to absorb completely between, but the leather responded very well. And I have always applied the dressing before gluing down any of the bits that have peeled up.

Great to hear your experiences, I have that leather dressing arriving tomorrow!
I had not started the gluing yet, had made a long flat "injector" our of thin copper tubing, to help me reach back under the leather.

Rereading one of many guides I looked at about leather restoration- I misremembered, they discussed gluing before "polishing", not rehydrating.
Which makes sense.

Thanks again!

Brian.