Portra 800 or Gold 200
If you're ok with it having about the granularity of Portra 800, then it's good stuff, if you are able to scan/ darkroom print it competently.
It really ain't Portra on the colour rendering front, just so you're aware. It's pretty warm overall, and the proclamations about mud are largely from people trying to force the curve behaviour off in directions it isn't meant to go. It's useful precisely because isn't Portra, not a cheaper substitute.
Sure; there's no question about that. I can only assume that the "it" you used in prior post was refering to Gold 200. That's all I was trying to clarify. Thanks.Gold 200 isn't like Portra, but has about the same granularity level as Portra 800.
Portra 800 seems to have had a complex evolutionary path, but that's irrelevant here.
But picks attention and recently found a mystery regarding this (P800) evolutionary path. As per the (35mm) rebates, Gold is GB-7 which points to that number of generations. I am surprised at how Kodak went plain with 120 and just rebates it "200". I haven't actually shot P800 but seemingly there is 800-2 and 800-3 out there; and in the "pop" circles Portra 800 hasn't been marketed as incorporating Vision 3 improvements.Gold 200 isn't like Portra, but has about the same granularity level as Portra 800.
Portra 800 seems to have had a complex evolutionary path, but that's irrelevant here.
I love these images! The contrast is much lower than I would expect from Gold 200. Have you reduced it in post-processing? Did you shoot it at the box speed or overexposed to reduce contrast and saturation?Like it a lot!
The contrast is much lower
I love these images! The contrast is much lower than I would expect from Gold 200. Have you reduced it in post-processing? Did you shoot it at the box speed or overexposed to reduce contrast and saturation?
They're scans. Contrast is a function of how it's scanned with color negative. You can scan a high-contrast film like Ektar and scan it totally flat, or take a slightly flatter film like Portra 400 and give it lots of punch. That's one of the many nice things of a hybrid workflow - you're in control, which releases you from the inherent properties of the film to a large extent.
Color balance is a matter of taste; I guess these particular scans show the "warm/yellow rendition of Gold", which really is a subjective and aesthetic choice in how the scans are balanced, not a given. Both scans show a bias/color cast that's likely caused by subject matter (i.e. dominant colors in the frame). But the scans do look pretty nice as they are!
I'd personally do some minor adjustments to both, color-wise:
View attachment 374273 View attachment 374270
Left = more blue, more green. Right = original.
There's a distinct yellow cast to the original frame, but as said this is likely due to how the color correction algorithm responded to the subject matter. Filtering this out IMO brings back the life into the cooler shadow areas especially on the fur and the reflections on the wet tarmac. A true-to-life rendition would of course be even more blue given the nature of the light this was shot in.
View attachment 374266 View attachment 374267
Here, the dominant cast in the original image is cyan (original = right), as evidenced in the sky, the green tinge to the white-washed building and especially the green tarmac. Restoring the red channel and also adding a bit of blue (which was digitally suppressed due to the presence of a large patch of blue sky) again in my view brings back the life in some of the hues, particularly on the car.
For some these adjustments may seem insignificant, but I find that if you work with color a lot, it becomes difficult to "un-see" this sort of thing.
I hope this small demonstration also works as an illustration that color balance for the most part is an aesthetic choice you decide during printing or digital post-processing. It's not as "baked in" into the film as many people believe. This is because there's no such thing as a "straight scan" when it comes to color negative - it's always interpreted.
Much of this interpretation is generally left to the scanning software if we let it handle the inversion, and this invariably involves color casts based on subject matter. That's OK - if we filter manually and entirely by eye, we also tend to introduce casts based on our preferences, memory of how something looked etc. This becomes especially apparent if you scan an entire roll of film exposed under different lighting conditions in one go as positive and then invert and balance all frames manually with the same curve adjustment. Some frames will come out looking fine, and some look totally wrong. It's not the film that's at fault - it's the fact that reality is just very variable, but our brains have an extremely effective auto-white balance functionality that makes everything look natural, always!
Btw, both are very pleasing images to my eye and this Gold 200 is evidently a very capable, high-quality film as evidenced by these very nice examples shared by @BAC1967 - thanks for posting them! If you prefer not to have the color-balancing exercise done on your images above, please don't hesitate to mention it and I'll happily remove them.
In my case I scan....so I can override a films tendency to everything colour related.
@macfred Loved your samples, and not only compositions but your scanning and color-balancing.
@macfred Loved your samples, and not only compositions but your scanning and color-balancing.
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