kodak Flash Supermatic shutter speeds.

[petersandford]

Hello again another newbie question.

My question is about shutter speeds on the kodak Flash Supermatic with using my spotmeter M, I normally get full stop readings of say 1/125. And since the lens is 1/3 readings its marked with 1/100 but rather than just clicking between 1/100 and 1/200 I noticed I can set it to just over or in the middle of the 1/100 and 1/200. so does that mean if I set it to 1/4 after the 1/100 that would be 1/125 and next 1/4 would be 1/160? or am i just being daft?


Thank you all

 

[BrianShaw]

Not all shutters are stepless like you are describing. Make your minor adjustments like that using aperture.

 

[Leigh B]

Hi Peter,

It's pretty unusual to find a shutter that can be set to intermediate speeds.
Ordinarily the steps are physical increments in the speed control gearing.

I would never attempt it unless the shutter document says it works as you want.
Some shutters could be damaged by the attempt.

Best to set the shutter at a marked speed and use the aperture control for intermediate settings.
The results would be identical IF intermediate shutter speeds worked as you want.

- Leigh

 

[BrianShaw]

... or use an archaic meter that reads to 1/10, 1/50, etc.

I still use a Weston III sometimes.

 

[Dan Fromm]

... or use an archaic meter that reads to 1/10, 1/50, etc.

I still use a Weston III sometimes.

Dinosaur. That's what you are. Get with modern times. Master V or Euromaster.

But and however, the III and IV calculator dials are easier to read and understand than the V's.

What the OP should do is get a dud V -- they're cheap -- and use its calculator dial to convert f/stop and shutter speed recommendations in the units he recognizes into ones his shutter recognizes.

 

[shutterfinger]

This is a speed ring on a Flash Supermatic shutter.

Inbetween marked settings will not be accurate, use the aperture to compensate as previously mentioned.

 

[petersandford]

Thank you Brian, Leigh, Dan and Shutterfinger and it has been noted, I just wasn't sure and with this being my first LF Camera I thought I'd be better to ask the experts before just making up my own rules

I went back to reading my manual for the Minolta Spotmeter M and after the 30min exposure you get the reading of 1/50 sec. but the manual states this is for taking cine readings at 24fps, but I guess i could just use that as my base setting

 

[BrianShaw]

Honestly though... with the wide latitude of B&W and color negative film you can just round shutter speed. 1/3 of a stop or so isn't going to faze the negs.

 

[summicron1]

Honestly though... with the wide latitude of B&W and color negative film you can just round shutter speed. 1/3 of a stop or so isn't going to faze the negs.

It would be something of a miracle if the mechanical speeds on a 50-year-old shutter were anywhere near what they say they are -- assume a deviance of at least 20 percent, especially on the top speeds, which are almost never as fast as marked.

I pretty much always meter very carefully with a Sekonic incident meter, then add a stop just to be sure.

Worst case scenario: My shadows have a titch more detail. No biggie.

 

[Arklatexian]

Hello again another newbie question.

My question is about shutter speeds on the kodak Flash Supermatic with using my spotmeter M, I normally get full stop readings of say 1/125. And since the lens is 1/3 readings its marked with 1/100 but rather than just clicking between 1/100 and 1/200 I noticed I can set it to just over or in the middle of the 1/100 and 1/200. so does that mean if I set it to 1/4 after the 1/100 that would be 1/125 and next 1/4 would be 1/160? or am i just being daft?


Thank you all

I have always been told, mostly by camera repairmen, that the shutter speed will usually be whatever marked speed is closest to where you set your "inbetween" speed. Apertures, on the other hand, can be set for 1/2 stop, 1/3 stop, etc. and that is what you will probably get. If in doubt about accurate shutter speeds, send the lens and flash supermatic shutter to a good repairperson and have it overhauled. By the way, there is nothing wrong with 1/100 sec, I doubt you could tell the difference in results between that and 1/125 sec so if your shutter is marked 1/100 sec., go ahead and use it.....Regards!

 

[shutterfinger]

My experience CLAing shutters in under normal amateur/advanced amateur usage that have the shutter serviced before it reaches 1 stop slow speeds from 1 second to 1/100-1/125 return to in tolerance, speeds 1/200 and above come back to 1/2 stop slow to 1 stop slow at 1/400.
Shutters run until the stop speeds 1 second to 1/50 come back to in tolerance, faster speeds 1 stop to 2 stops slow.
Shutters that have seen very heavy professional use despite being serviced regularly come back to 1/2 stop slow to 2 stops slow or worse depending on the wear.
I have serviced between 50 and 100 shutters of various makes.

In the photo in post 6 the steps with marked speeds control the sector gear and the section with distance measurements only controls the pallet tension, they work together to regulate the speeds.

Movement is in the direction of the arrows.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

The problem with older marked shutter speeds that don't quite match modern meters is not so difficult to deal with.

An easy solution is to simply round the shutter speeds off, and then add or subtract 1/3-stop with the aperture as needed; e.g., if you shutter is marked 1/5, then assume it's 1/4, read the aperture for 1/4 sec and open up 1/3 stop from that. Easy. Similar for the other speeds: 1/10 = 1/8 + 1/3-stop more with the aperture; 1/25 = 1/30 minus 1/3-stop with the aperture (or just leave it and overexpose 1/3-stop...); 1/50 = 1/60 minus 1/3 stop; 1/100 = 1/125 minus 1/2-stop, etc.

The real problem with older shutters is accuracy. If your shutter is erratic, get it serviced. If it is not, the speeds are likely still off a bit. I test the shutter speeds and mark actual speeds rounded to the nearest 1/3-stop on a label that I stick to the lensboard.

I don't see the need to carry around a non-functioning meter just to figure out what aperture to use...

Just for easy reference: Shutter Speeds in approx. 1/3-stop intervals:

1 sec., .80 sec. (4/5 sec.), .64 sec. (2/3 sec), ½ sec., .4 sec. (2/5 sec.), 1/3 sec., ¼ sec., 1/5 sec., 1/6 sec.,

1/8 sec., 1/10 sec., 1/12 sec., 1/16 sec., 1/20 sec., 1/25 sec., 1/30 sec., 1/40 sec., 1/50 sec., 1/60 sec.,

(continue the above row, adding a zero to the denominator, e.g., 1/8 = 1/80, etc.).

Best,

Doremus

 

[shutterfinger]

http://www.photographyuncapped.com/articles/photography/iso-shutter-speeds-f-stops/

 

[petersandford]

Thank you everyone I took the camera out yesterday to get a few lighthouse shots and it turned out not too bad just had to raise the blacks a bit in lightroom. So next time I'll try dropping the aperture a bit more Next problem I need to work out is how to remove the lens from the lens board guessing it requires a tool to do it, just don't want to break it then find someone over here that can give it a service.

 

[Dan Fromm]

Unscrew rear cell from shutter. This will reveal a retaining ring that has two pairs of opposed slots. Use a spanner to unscrew the retaining ring. Pull the shutter with front cell out of the board.

Look here http://www.skgrimes.com/products/spanner-wrench to see what a retaining ring and spanner look like.

 

[shutterfinger]

Another very good spanner http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professio...325346?hash=item41c2844fe2:g:z3oAAOSwWWxY9KTV

(works well on film cameras also)

 

[petersandford]

Thank you guys this is the rear of the board, the ring seems to be on there pretty good.

 

[shutterfinger]

Someone has used a mount flange to attach the shutter to the lensboard. Put the spanner into two of the three holes and turn counterclockwise on the ring while turning the shutter counterclockwise as viewed from the front.

I see some scratches on the rear element, did you do that trying to remove the ring?
Unscrew the rear element by grasping the black ring around the lens element and turning counterclockwise, lay the element aside in a safe place to prevent further damage to the lens.

 

[petersandford]

Thank you Shutterfinger, No I never used any tools I just tryed to give it a little twist with my hand. I'm guess that must of been done by one of the former owners, more like the one that managed to chew the head on one of the ground screen brackets. I'm more of a ask first than get the tools poked in kinda guy

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Do clean that fingerprint off the rear element...

 

[petersandford]

Think that was the reflection of my jumper, but when I looked at it i did think it was a fingerprint too.