Kodak Ektar vs. the Portas

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DREW WILEY

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At this stage of the game, color neg films are indeed different, and the 2/F post you quoted is right on. Filtration doesn't have to be perfect, but you need enough exposure to each of the three color layers to make them reasonably balanced and printable. If things are way off initially, nothing you can do with a colorhead on in Photoshop is going to recover it. Generally, I just carry two filters:
an 81A for overcast, and an 81C for deep north shade under a blue sky or analogous conditions. I can
fudge the middle condition of 81B if needed.
 

Athiril

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I've used an 85A filter in a forest, compensating for the filter factor, it gives a nice improvement to colour.
 

DREW WILEY

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I'd filter Portra films the same way as Ektar. They might be a little more forgiving; but in the past, I've lost some interesting Ektar shots myself due to ignorance of the importance of filtration.
 

jglass

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Well, apropos of this filtration discussion, can anyone refer me to a short but accurate primer on BASIC filtration of color film for the usual issues of shade, etc? I am just needing to get started on that topic.

Thanks!
 

2F/2F

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Well, apropos of this filtration discussion, can anyone refer me to a short but accurate primer on BASIC filtration of color film for the usual issues of shade, etc? I am just needing to get started on that topic.

Thanks!

I'd read a color photography textbook Like Horenstein's "Color Photography, A Working Manual." Or maybe a pamphlet/brochure from Lee Filters would be a good reference.
 

Athiril

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Well, apropos of this filtration discussion, can anyone refer me to a short but accurate primer on BASIC filtration of color film for the usual issues of shade, etc? I am just needing to get started on that topic.

Thanks!

I only use an 85A in cold light situations. Minor (colour) filtration imho isn't that important compared to colour balance.

Polarisation, ND-grads contribute to my photography much more dramatically.

IE: no pola

Stream #4 by athiril, on Flickr

pola

Stream #3 by athiril, on Flickr
 

Grif

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So, I guess grabbing a fully funtional Gossen Sixticolor meter for $25 wasn't such a bad thing for negative shooting?

Only real reason I got it was to put in the display case ;-) But if I'm going to shoot any color it sure seems the ticket after reading most of this thread
 

tjaded

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The examples of Ektar in this thread help to prove what I already think--Ektar 100 really shines in open shade! Love the stuff.
 

Athiril

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Great in direct sun/high contrast too - I was at the following location with a friend who has a G617.. he had Velvia 50, spent 15-20 minutes waiting for sun to duck behind clouds, which it did every few minutes but only for 3 seconds or so.. Ektar? no problemo.

Also with a polariser to cut through surface water and bring out contrast of subjects against each other.


Waterfall by athiril, on Flickr
 

DREW WILEY

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I'm pretty good at estimating what filter I need in the field without a color temp meter. However, when
I make a master negative for paper calibration with the MacBeath chart, I do use the meter and correct
as precisely prescribed. For the learning curve it's useful to carry a temp meter around for awhile measuring different representative light conditions until you know what to expect.
 
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brian steinberger

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I would think this shouldn't be too difficult to guesstimate which filter to use as well. Going back to 2F's post I'll take a stab at it:

- any time it is cloudy - 81B?
- any time it is overcast - 81A?
- any time your subject is primarily in the shade or in window light - 81B? If heavy shade with blue skies above - 81C?
- any time it is more than a few hours either side of noon. - 81A?

Someone correct me.
 

Athiril

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Can you explain?

It improves colour contrast and just makes the image look nicer when colour balanced identically when shot without said filter.

*Correction, it's actually an 85B... I always get confused as to which one I have.
 

2F/2F

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As Athiril said, color conversion (big steps in color balance) is far more important to do than color correction: the more minor filtration changes that are often needed to tweak something's balance to "perfection."

But I consider shooting in shade or overcast weather to be major deviation from the film's color balance that warrants at least a stop of overexposure if filtration is not possible at the time. If you want to use filters, I think at the very least, everyone interested in shooting color film should have an 80A filter, an 85 filter, and at least one of each in the 81 and 82 series (for minor warm or cool CC changes on top of the 80A or 85 color conversion filters). A 30 or 40 Magenta filter can help too, in green fluorescent light, though many fluorescent lamps are not green now. A heavy 81 series filter is useful too, when the 85 is too heavy (e.g. cloudy/bright weather or light shade). A 10 or 20 Magenta CC filter is good when a lot of light is bouncing up from grass onto a person's face, to prevent a jaundiced look. A polarizer can be very useful if not overuse, but that is a separate issue from color balance.

It can also be quite helpful to have the same compliment of filters for your flashes. Except instead of magenta for fluorescents, it should be green to match the flash to the ambient source. The most common application would be to use an 85 gel over a flash when tungsten ambient light is also present. (It is my most-used trick at wedding receptions.) If you don't do that, one light source is always cool or warm, while the other is neutral...or worst of all IMHO, a compromise between the two. Yuck!
 
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Athiril

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Mixed lighting temps isn't bad though, you dont always want to make two things look neutral, like outside looking into a lit house, or a lit house looking outside, one is cold, one is warm, although you may want to bring the difference closer together.


160NS and 160NC are being made as far as I can tell. You can get it from Japan Exposure if you really like it, but they only have the 160NC in 4x5" for some reason.
 

2F/2F

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Yes, closer together. Not perfectly matching. No way to get them perfect anyhow, unless you have showed up ahead of time and installed the ambient lamps yourself. But when you have a 5,500K flash and 2,900K or lower household lamps, it generally looks bad IMO.
 

2F/2F

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Hi,

I'd also add an 85 for shooting in deep shade, and an 82A (cooling) to compliment your 81A (warming).

I use the 82 series for two things:

1. To stack on top of an 80A or in front of tungsten film when shooting using household tungsten lamps. These are lower in color temperature than Photo Floods, so an 80A still leaves them looking a bit too warm for my taste.

2. To stack on top of an 85 filter when the 85 may be a bit too heavy for shooting in the shade.
 
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