Kodak Ektar H35 review part 3! And final..

[Huss]

My last review of what arguably is the greatest 35mm half frame camera ever produced, that you can buy new right now...

Quick sum up - I've so far shot over 300 exposures through it and had zero issues. I would 100% buy it again.

Pics taken w Fuji C200 and Arista 100.

Peace out!

 

[Huss]

 

[Huss]

 

[Huss]

 

[Huss]

 

[Huss]

 

[foc]

They should make you the Kodak H35 brand ambassador.

Thank you for your images posted and your unbiased opinion. If anyone has any doubts about the Kodak H35 then all they need to do is look at your images.
I think the price of the camera is very good value and a welcome addition for film users.

 

[Roger Cole]

I’ve shot like 8 or 9 frames on my roll of XP-2 Super. I’ll get back to you in a couple of months.

 

[Huss]

 

[Huss]

I think C41 film really is ideal for this camera due to the wide exposure latitude. And ISO 200 seems to be the ideal compromise for daylight shots.

With ISO 100 film the flash is effective to maybe arm's length.

 

[Huss]

H35 caught out in the wild in lurid action!

 

[braxus]

What effective focal length is the lens on this thing? And how sharp is the lens? Does it compete with older half frame cameras with real complex lenses? What speed of film was it meant to use with- 200 or 400?

 

[MattKing]

What effective focal length is the lens on this thing? And how sharp is the lens? Does it compete with older half frame cameras with real complex lenses? What speed of film was it meant to use with- 200 or 400?

I refer you to part I of Huss' very comprehensive review of this camera for at least some of the answers: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/photrios-first-kodak-ektar-h35-review.193113/
This is from the Web:

• Film Format: 35mm (Half Frame)
• Film Transport: Manual Wind And Rewind
• Optical Lens: 22mm; F9.5; 2-Element Optical Grade Acrylic Lens
• Shutter Release: 1/100s
• Flash: Built-in
• Power Supply: 1*AAA Alkaline Battery
• Dimensions: 110(W) x 62(H) x 39(D) mm
• Weight: 100(g)
• Materials: ABS

 

[Huss]

I refer you to part I of Huss' very comprehensive review of this camera for at least some of the answers: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/photrios-first-kodak-ektar-h35-review.193113/
This is from the Web:

• Film Format: 35mm (Half Frame)
• Film Transport: Manual Wind And Rewind
• Optical Lens: 22mm; F9.5; 2-Element Optical Grade Acrylic Lens
• Shutter Release: 1/100s
• Flash: Built-in
• Power Supply: 1*AAA Alkaline Battery
• Dimensions: 110(W) x 62(H) x 39(D) mm
• Weight: 100(g)
• Materials: ABS

Thanks Matt!

And part 2 here:

Kodak Ektar H35 half frame camera review part deux!

So I finally developed that roll of Arista 100 that I had shot through it. I was waiting until I had a bunch of rolls to develop cuz I was busy looking busy etc. As the H35 has a set exposure of f9 @ 1/100, ISO 100 film is really the ideal for outdoor/daylight use. Interestingly this can be...

www.photrio.com

 

[Huss]

Does it compete with older half frame cameras with real complex lenses?

Compared to my Olympus Pen FT, no.

What the Kodak is, is a very fun camera that you can buy new (try buying another half frame camera new from your dealer!) that you use in a fun, carefree way. As can whomever you hand it off to.
It is not serious, not meant to be serious, but within its limitations can make satisfying images.
Did I mention it is really fun to use?

 

[MattKing]

And as for the "equivalent focal length" question, 38mm on half frame is sort of equivalent to 50mm on full frame, and 20mm is sort of equivalent to 28mm on full frame, so 22mm is sort of equivalent to ????

 

[Huss]

Yah, looking at the images it seems to be 30-ish

 

[Roger Cole]

And as for the "equivalent focal length" question, 38mm on half frame is sort of equivalent to 50mm on full frame, and 20mm is sort of equivalent to 28mm on full frame, so 22mm is sort of equivalent to ????

What I've read in other half frame discussions here is that the usual lens factor applied is 1.4x. So a 38 is about like a 53.2 (gotta include that 0.2 in a rough rule of thumb calculation result!) 20mm does indeed come out to 28, and that would make 22mm equal to about 30.8. Just judging from the viewfinder in mine that sounds about right. It's wider than a 35mm on 35 full frame, at least, but doesn't look quite as wide as a 28.

 

[Huss]

I like this camera so much I loaded another roll of C200 in it. There's a heat wave coming this week, plus a 3 day festival so it would see a good venue for a 'cheap' simple half frame camera.

 

[Huss]

 

[MattKing]

Do you walk around with the Ektar H35 in one hand, and a Leica in the other hand/on a strap?

 

[Huss]

Do you walk around with the Ektar H35 in one hand, and a Leica in the other hand/on a strap?

If I do have another camera, it will be in a small bag while the Kodak is being held with a wrist strap. Normally I take two cameras with me but use the one in hand as the primary and only bust out the other for a specific shot or if I have finished the film in the first one.

 

[Roger Cole]

I tucked my H35 into my TLR bag with my Yashicamat. It's the smallest of my regular camera bags. I've been meaning to get out with it but...well, reasons. But I'll have both, which besides the obvious huge quality difference in both lens quality and format will also give me a normal with the 80mm on the Yashicamat and a wide with the H35.

 

[BigMackCam]

This is my first "real" post in these forums (after my inital introduction), so I hope I'm doing this correctly

Huge thanks to the OP for the review threads and sample photos for this camera - very helpful and much appreciated.

I have a few of questions, which I'm hoping the OP or other members might be able to answer?

1. Does 36exp film place noticeable stress on the winding mechanism? I own and use a Vivitar Ultra Wide and Slim - my second - that I only use with 24exp films, as the previous one had trouble with longer films and eventually broke. Such a limitation wouldn't stop me from buying the H35 (and I have a few boxes of 24exp film in my freezer) but it would be good to know either way.

2. Is the outer (or inner) diameter of the lens ring known? It looks like it would be easy to rig a slip-on yellow, orange or ND filter for creative purposes or to allow some control over film speed in different lighting.

3. In a YouTube review I heard that after using the flash and switching back to no-flash operation, the camera will sometimes still fire the flash for a shot or two, and that RETO's August production run of the camera should resolve this. Has the OP noticed this problem?

4. Purely out of curiosity, has it been confirmed whether the lens is the same as that in the Vivitar UW&S? This doesn't matter at all, but since I'm such a big fan of that camera, it would be interesting to know!

Apologies if some or all of these questions have been answered already.

The H35 is GBP £49.99 on Amazon UK, which isn't cheap for an all-plastic camera with this kind of build quality, but... the photos I'm seeing from it really have something I like. I've got one in my Amazon basket but haven't pulled the trigger just yet

Many thanks in advance...

 

[Huss]

This is my first "real" post in these forums (after my inital introduction), so I hope I'm doing this correctly

Huge thanks to the OP for the review threads and sample photos for this camera - very helpful and much appreciated.

I have a few of questions, which I'm hoping the OP or other members might be able to answer?

1. Does 36exp film place noticeable stress on the winding mechanism? I own and use a Vivitar Ultra Wide and Slim - my second - that I only use with 24exp films, as the previous one had trouble with longer films and eventually broke. Such a limitation wouldn't stop me from buying the H35 (and I have a few boxes of 24exp film in my freezer) but it would be good to know either way.

2. Is the outer (or inner) diameter of the lens ring known? It looks like it would be easy to rig a slip-on yellow, orange or ND filter for creative purposes or to allow some control over film speed in different lighting.

3. In a YouTube review I heard that after using the flash and switching back to no-flash operation, the camera will sometimes still fire the flash for a shot or two, and that RETO's August production run of the camera should resolve this. Has the OP noticed this problem?

4. Purely out of curiosity, has it been confirmed whether the lens is the same as that in the Vivitar UW&S? This doesn't matter at all, but since I'm such a big fan of that camera, it would be interesting to know!

Apologies if some or all of these questions have been answered already.

The H35 is GBP £49.99 on Amazon UK, which isn't cheap for an all-plastic camera with this kind of build quality, but... the photos I'm seeing from it really have something I like. I've got one in my Amazon basket but haven't pulled the trigger just yet

Many thanks in advance...

1. No stress on the mechanism with 36 exp rolls. Just make sure when you reach the end you leave it be, and don't try to get one more shot! Pretty much like with any camera.
I have had films that I bought from Ultrafineonline that they wound way too tight, and they were hard to advance but that was a long time before I bought this Kodak, and they are long since gone.
2. No idea. But a good idea re. the ND filter.
3. A couple of times when I use the flash, then turn it off, it will discharge some on the next shot. This is because the moment a shot is taken the camera recharges the flash and it seems the flash on/off switch only is there to charge the flash. Once off, if the flash is already charged it will still fire. it's a quirk but doesn't bother me as the flash is weak but it still can happen. - just tested it - turn the flash on to let it charge. Turn the flash off. Take a pic, flash goes off
4. No idea, but it's a pretty good lens considering. It is sharpest between 8-15 ft it seems.

This camera isn't cheap, even though it is "delicately" made, but honestly there is nothing like it that you can buy new. There are no other new half frame cameras sold.

Edit- to prevent unintentional flash pics, once the ready light for the flash has illuminated, turn the flash off. The flash will still happen when you take the shot, but will not happen on the shot after unless you turn it back on and let it charge up again.