Kodak Ektacolor Plus & Ektachrome 22

[fotch]

I have some Kodak Ektacolor Plus in the freezer for about 15 years and wondering is it any good.

(Also, one sealed pack of Kodak Ektachrome 22.)

I have no way of testing right now. Also, this is a different process. I did find a post elsewhere from PE about changing the current chemistry to work with it.

But, if produces a marginal result, am not interested, maybe someone else is.

Otherwise, my wife (artist) said she could use it if its useless.

Any advise is welcome.

Thank you

 

[Photo Engineer]

If it is C41 and E6 chemistry based, then the only solution that must be changed is the stabilizer. The modern stabilizers cannot be used. You must use the older formalin based stabilizer.

Modern developers may have changed slightly to reflect emuslion changes, but this should not have a huge impact on the film. It would mainly cause a change in seasoning if a lot of it was to be processed.

If frozen, the Ektacolor would probably work reasonably well with the major change being fog. IDK about the Ektachrome. Never tried it. I have some Vericolor II or III and some other films from the same era. Some were bad and some were good. The bad ones had the foil seals broken.

PE

 

[fotch]

I thought C41 was for film. Anyway, according to the packages, the following is stated:
Ektacolor Plus takes "Ektaprint 2"
Ektachrome 22 takes "Ektachrome R-3"

I though I read a post that stated RA-4 developer would have to have chemicals added to work.

Note added! The products are printing paper.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Ooops.

Sorry, Ektacolor Plus used the Ektaprint 2 or 3 process, and Ektachrome 22 took a process similar to Radiance paper. I had a senior moment.

You would have to add about 12 ml of benzyl alcohol / liter of RA developer and 500 milligrams /liter of Sodium Bromide to make the RA developer work with Plus.

Plus does not keep all that well compared to the RA papers, but might have kept in the freezer. I had some that I removed from my freezer to leave room for other things. It loses red speed and the prints require more and more red filtration with time.

I'm not sure about the Ektachrome 22. You might try Dektol 1:3 as the first developer and the doctored up RA developer above for the color developer. I have no idea, not having done any without the proper chemistry for many years.

Sorry for the goof.

I have 2 gallon EP-2/3 developer kits here, but they may have gone bad.

The RA blix is ok for these papers, but you may want to use a stabilzer.

PE

 

[fotch]

Thank you for the info.