Kodak double x 7222 developing

[Laci Toth]

Hi everyone,

I’ve a Mamiya super 16 and would like to give it a meaning. As I develop 35 and 120 at home anyway I’m wondering if I can use the same chemicals for 16mm as well? I use Rodinal and Ilfotec dd-x and Caffenol. Maybe it’s just me but I couldn’t find any reliable info about home developing Kodak double x 16mm.
Could you please share your experiences, outcomes, thoughts or any other recommendations for developing or a developing chart and the rest of the process (stop, fix) and also for printing?
I’m also thinking about enlarging the negs and wondering about the results if I use the lens and the enlarger which I currently use for 35mm and 120 format.
Thanks indeed!

 

[scheimfluger_77]

Is that one of those cameras that used a 16mm cassette? I remember almost buying one once. Can you still get film for that? I don’t know why the processing would be any different. Your existing enlarging setup should work. Just remember that you are enlarging a smaller negative and a 50mm lens will not give you as big of a print for similar height setting.

 

[Laci Toth]

Is that one of those cameras that used a 16mm cassette? I remember almost buying one once. Can you still get film for that? I don’t know why the processing would be any different. Your existing enlarging setup should work. Just remember that you are enlarging a smaller negative and a 50mm lens will not give you as big of a print for similar height setting.

Hi,

Yes, it’s the one! I also have 4 films for it, two in tins ‘Made in occupied Japan’ engraved and two still in its unwrapped black rice paper package. It hasn’t been used since 1951. It was owned by a soldier who served in the Royal Navy.
I appreciate your response about the enlarging and will give it a go and see what’s gonna happen.

 

[darkosaric]

Double X 5222, developed in Rodinal 1+50, 13 min developing time (I think), 3-4 agitation every 30 sec after constant initial 60 sec of agitation:

https://www.deviantart.com/darkosaric/art/Paris-20-496150907
https://www.deviantart.com/darkosaric/art/Paris-19-496150375

 

[Laci Toth]

Double X 5222, developed in Rodinal 1+50, 13 min developing time (I think), 3-4 agitation every 30 sec after constant initial 60 sec of agitation:

https://www.deviantart.com/darkosaric/art/Paris-20-496150907
https://www.deviantart.com/darkosaric/art/Paris-19-496150375

Thanks for your info!
Nice shots!

 

[darkosaric]

Thanks Laci . I find that almost every film works well in Rodinal 1+50 (except 3200 and some 400 films).

 

[Laci Toth]

Thanks Laci . I find that almost every film works well in Rodinal 1+50 (except 3200 and some 400 films).

Yes, that’s what I’ve heard as well that except high speed films Rodinal is a good bet unless you need the look what it does with high speed films.

 

[scheimfluger_77]

Hi,

Yes, it’s the one! I also have 4 films for it, two in tins ‘Made in occupied Japan’ engraved and two still in its unwrapped black rice paper package. It hasn’t been used since 1951. It was owned by a soldier who served in the Royal Navy.
I appreciate your response about the enlarging and will give it a go and see what’s gonna happen.

I had no idea the format was that old. I thought it was something Mamiya created to compete with 110.

 

[Pentode]

Shot at EI 200, I develop 5222 in Rodinal 1:60 for 7:00 at 20C.
1 minute continuous agitation followed by 3 inversions per minute. Follow with whatever stop and fix you use with any other B&W film. Determine fix time by doubling your clearing time. I expect 7222 times to be comparable to 5222.

 

[scheimfluger_77]

Shot at EI 200, I develop 5222 in Rodinal 1:60 for 7:00 at 20C.
1 minute continuous agitation followed by 3 inversions per minute. Follow with whatever stop and fix you use with any other B&W film. Determine fix time by doubling your clearing time. I expect 7222 times to be comparable to 5222.

I hadn’t thought about this in a long time but the 5,000 series designation indicated 35mm MP film stock and the 7,000 series indicated 16mm MP film stock. That’s a generalization but that is what we found when i was in film school in the ‘70’s.

 

[dourbalistar]

I used Compard R09 (a Rodinal clone) for one roll of 5222, before switching to LegacyPro L110 (a HC-110 clone). Here are two examples with Compard R09 at 1+50 for 10 minutes:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dourbalistar/46205607125/in/album-72157694586893884/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dourbalistar/41334116742/in/album-72157694586893884/

The rest of the samples in this album are with LegacyPro L110:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dourbalistar/albums/72157694586893884

 

[Laci Toth]

Many thanks for all of you!
I really appreciate all the infos and thoughts!

 

[Michael W]

I did about 20 rolls of it in 35mm. Had good results rating it at 400 and processing in Rodinal 1+50 for 10.5 min at 20 deg
Agitate first 30 secs, then 10 secs each following minute.

 

[Laci Toth]

I did about 20 rolls of it in 35mm. Had good results rating it at 400 and processing in Rodinal 1+50 for 10.5 min at 20 deg
Agitate first 30 secs, then 10 secs each following minute.

Yes, I’m thinking of cut the right width from 35mm orthochromatic film so at least I see what I’m doing and then give it a go.

 

[ballisticone]

Here is mine. im really happy with the result

 

[Laci Toth]

Here is mine. im really happy with the result

Thanks for the info! I appreciate it!

 

[fdonadio]

I’ve a Mamiya super 16 and would like to give it a meaning. As I develop 35 and 120 at home anyway I’m wondering if I can use the same chemicals for 16mm as well? I use Rodinal and Ilfotec dd-x and Caffenol. Maybe it’s just me but I couldn’t find any reliable info about home developing Kodak double x 16mm

Do you want to use it for still or cinema?

I use it for still in 35mm and develop it on D-76 with the times published on the Massive Development Chart. Contrast is good, albeit a little low, so I often need to go to grade 3.5 or even 4 with some negatives (specially those shot on overcast weather).

If you want to use it for cinema and print it to a positive for projection, I would advise you to use D-96 (the formula is public) and then use some other film for the positive copy.

 

[Laci Toth]

Do you want to use it for still or cinema?

I use it for still in 35mm and develop it on D-76 with the times published on the Massive Development Chart. Contrast is good, albeit a little low, so I often need to go to grade 3.5 or even 4 with some negatives (specially those shot on overcast weather).

If you want to use it for cinema and print it to a positive for projection, I would advise you to use D-96 (the formula is public) and then use some other film for the positive copy.

Thanks for your idea!
For still. I think I’ll load an orthochromatic film just to be able to see something because it’s so small that I don’t think that I could make it without deep sighs.