According to Anchell, Borax has a ph of 9.5,
while sulfite has a ph of 8.0.
I loved using D-23 and used it for a number of years as my only developer. I employed the two bath version which worked quite well for pt/pd printing.
Ed Buffaloe of unblinkingeye.com and I did some articles on the variations for this developer.
Here's the link to the article. Explore the site too, it has a lot of information and links to alt process sites.
And let the sodium chloride not be iodized table salt. That sold for canning is usually specified as non-iodized. Iodine is a better restrainer I think than bromine. "Kosher" does not guarantee pure sodium chloride. It means that it is fit for human consumption, and I do not know what else it might be fit for, but I'm sure photography is not first in mind.
According to Anchell, Borax has a ph of 9.5, while sulfite has a ph of 8.0.
The ingredient list? D-76 has borax added, D-23 does not, the only alkali is the sodium sulfite.
I couldn't find a final pH listed for D-23; apparently no one tests it, but D-23 times for the same film and same target contrast tend to be a little longer: Tri-X 400 in D-23 stock lists at 7:30, while D-76 stock shows as 6:45 -- so the times are not interchangeable. Further, this is for commercial D-76, which doesn't show the pH rise over a week that home mixed D-76 does.
The pH of sodium sulfite in aqueous solution is around 10.4.
Do you know what kind of buffer they (Kodak) added to D-76?
The received wisdom is that the 2gm/l of Borax used in the conventional formula was replaced with 8gm/l of Borax and 8gm/l of Boric Acid.
If the developer will be used immediately and discarded then there is little point in buffering.
I mix ID-68 (supposedly like Microphen) according to the published formula, and since I use it one shot (not necessarily immediately), I have wondered if I need the boric acid which I assume is there for buffering
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