Not nearly that massive. 5L kits make about 6.5L of working solution and I typically use that one shot. I'd run through a full kit at this point by using it one shot but couldn't use 4x kits
Not nearly that massive. 5L kits make about 6.5L of working solution and I typically use that one shot. I'd run through a full kit at this point by using it one shot but couldn't use 4x kitshow much is a massive quantity? You can get the 2x10L pack which is basically the same as getting 4 5L lorr packs. https://www.pakor.com/fuji-neg-n1-r-developer-replenisher-2x10-l-3 If you have a big backlog, you’ll prob run through at least one of the 10L mixes and still have one unopened bottle to go unless you replenish, but even then, you gotta burn at least a liter just to get an initial bottle of working solution.
Are any photo stores, smaller operators really shut down?
Crazy times.
Tetenal is still going. Kodak black and white chemistry is now available. Kodak SinoPromise is fouled up in the logistical mess. Wuxi (Kodak SinoPromise) have been making Kodak color chemistry for a long time, nothing new there.One of the local photo stores here told me years ago that Kodak chemicals were no longer being made because Tetanal had shut down. I take any such info with skepticism, that store was going full digital except for some negative file pages.
It's a very satisfying experience to mix your own processing chemicals from bulk materials. Get yourself a copy of the dark room cookbook and get going. It's a lot of fun.We must rush out to stock up to keep the chemicals from the hoarders!
exactly!It's a very satisfying experience to mix your own processing chemicals from bulk materials. Get yourself a copy of the dark room cookbook and get going. It's a lot of fun.
It's a very satisfying experience to mix your own processing chemicals from bulk materials.
exactly!
or white distilled vinegar from the grocery store
Whenever people clean out a darkroom I end up with stop, Hypo clearing agent, selenium toner. I never run short.
FWIW, I bought roughly a pint of 75% acetic acid from Amazon that costs a LOT less per liter of stop bath (at 2% or lower strength) than white vinegar from the supermarket (even in the "super cheap" gallon jugs). Still turns out not to beat Kodak Indicator Stop Bath concentrate, especially after I price in a tiny bottle of bromocresol purple (the indicator dye that's yellow when acid and turns purple when not acidic enough).
TBH I don't even bother with stop bath most of the time
its not necessary ..
I have always wished that I was taller.
It depends. If you're doing something where you need even, consistent development, stop bath is useful -- to ensure that development ends across the entire film/print in the same time frame/direction it started. It also helps avoid active developer in the fixer (which can cause fog if your fixer isn't acidic enough). Beyond that, it seems mostly a matter of how you learned or what you're in the habit of doing. I learned to use stop bath for film and prints (fifty-some years ago), and I've almost always used it, except during the period when I mixed my own neutral fixer and used either water stop or no stop (which is how I know developer in non-acid fixer causes fog).
I believe there’s a long running thread about the importance of stop bath somewhere here at Photrio…
there is, you are right. and in it PE acknowledged that a running water stop worked OK in some of cases. ...I believe there’s a long running thread about the importance of stop bath somewhere here at Photrio…
I'm not into the grocery store junk, but I can fairly easily get by on D-23 and a commercial rapid fixer for film. Print developers are easy to make but require a few extra ingredients to work properly.
Right but did he use stop bath or water?
EXACTLY!If it's Bender, I'm guessing beer.
Right but did he use stop bath or water?
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