On the front end, the lens and shutter assembly can be removed from the helical by removing the screw that is on a bracket at the 7 o'clock position (for the Supermatic). Then the shutter assembly can be screwed off counterclockwise to remove it from the lens board. Be sure to note what position it comes off the threads in, as there are eight start positions for the helical.
is that the screw you're talking about to start removing the helical?
Thanks Hunter. There’s a seller on eBay that has them. He doesn’t say what camera they are for but the measurements seem correct.Yes, that's the one that prevents the shutter assembly from rotating when focusing. If you remove it, the shutter assembly can be screwed off. But again, note what orientation the shutter assembly is in when you remove it. Mine pops out of the threads with the screw bracket pointing to 8 o'clock in relation to where the shutter is normally. However, this point will vary depending on the infinity focus point of your camera. You will have some indication as to the correct point when reassembling, as if screwed in too far, it will hit the lens board before reaching infinity, and if screwed in not far enough, the door won't close fully.
I am going to have too look for my measurements I sent for when I had my bellows replicated, but what you have sounds right. I do recall there was a slight taper, but not significant enough that having non-tapered bellows would be a problem. Can I ask where you sourced your bellows?
I also have some notes on rangefinder adjustment if and when you get to that point that I can relay.
I am going to have too look for my measurements I sent for when I had my bellows replicated, but what you have sounds right. I do recall there was a slight taper, but not significant enough that having non-tapered bellows would be a problem. Can I ask where you sourced your bellows?
I also have some notes on rangefinder adjustment if and when you get to that point that I can relay.
I’ll admit this is one of the more challenging ones I have done but it’s a great learning exercise. Despite the focus issue the bellows replacement worked well.Not a project I would undertake, but I admire your accomplishments. Bravo!
The other possibility, re: film flatness in the Bantams, is to take off the finger that pokes thru the single sprocket hole in true 828 film. It's not a big deal to do. Then you just use the backing paper and the green (!) window for advancing. I use unperforated 35mm microfilm in my 828 reloads, and use cut down 120 backing paper with the 4.5x6cm numbers showing-- you learn to wind it a little short to not waste too much film.
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