Kodafix fixing time

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md_photo

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Trying to read through instructions but can't decipher this. How long does one fix in Kodafix? My most common b&w roll films are Tri-X and FP4+. I am using HC-110 for development, and I mixed a 1:3 working solution from the Kodafix concentrate (125ml with 375ml deionized water).

I did an initial try yesterday at 4 minutes fixing, after a minute in the Kodak stop solution.
 

Nicholas Lindan

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The usual advice, for the 'usual' fixers (of which Kodafix is one), is to fix for twice the time it takes the film to clear. Fixing can be done with the lights on and the tank open so you can lift the reel and observe the progress of fixing.
 

koraks

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I did an initial try yesterday at 4 minutes fixing, after a minute in the Kodak stop solution.
That should work at 1+3 dilution. I generally fix the kind of films you use for anything between 4 and 6.5 minutes, which is already ample at the dilution mentioned. T-grain films need more thorough fixing; let's say 8-10 minutes to be sure. It's not very critical as long as fixing is complete. @Nicholas Lindan mentions twice the clearing time which is the common advice which should be plenty safe. However, I never really watch the process; I just go with my seat of the pants approach and always get where I need with this.
Long story short: don't overthink it.
 

NB23

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I dont’t know why do suddenly minutes last so long once I’m at the fixing stage.

5 minutes for me. Tmax films, 7-8.
 

MattKing

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Trying to read through instructions but can't decipher this. How long does one fix in Kodafix? My most common b&w roll films are Tri-X and FP4+. I am using HC-110 for development, and I mixed a 1:3 working solution from the Kodafix concentrate (125ml with 375ml deionized water).

I did an initial try yesterday at 4 minutes fixing, after a minute in the Kodak stop solution.

Fixing times depend on the film you are fixing. For Kodak products, you'll find the fixing time for Kodafix and other Kodak fixers in the data sheet for the film, e.g., Kodak recommends 2-4 minutes for Tri-X in Kodafix. For T-Max films, Kodak recommends 5-10 minutes.

From this, one can extrapolate that "conventional" films can be fixed for the shorter times, newer tabular-grain films (i.e., T-Max or Delta films) need the longer times.

Kodak also recommends using the clip test and fixing films for at least twice the clearing time. Clip tests are easy, but you need to do them every time you fix if you re-use your fixer, since clearing times change as the fixer becomes progressively more and more exhausted (that means, don't use twice the clearing time in fresh fixer to fix the next batch through the fixer, since that time is no longer valid; you need to do a new clearing test to arrive at the new time). Your fixer will need to be discarded when the clearing time reaches twice that in fresh fixer, so make good notes.

That said, it has been well established that fixing film longer than the minimum twice the clearing time has no ill effects as long as that time isn't excessive enough to cause bleaching. So (stay with me here) since you can fix film in fixer that has just about reached the exhaustion point, which is 2x the clearing time in fresh fix, by doubling that time, the "maximum" time you'd be fixing before mixing fresh fix would be 4x the clearing time.

So, one can simply do a clip test for a given film in fresh fixer, take that time and multiply it by 4, and arrive at a time that will supposedly work for all your fixing needs for a given film. I take this a step further and add a bit of a safety factor, roughly 20%, just to be sure. That much fixing will not damage any film.

So then, you can use one fixing time for a given film until you need to mix fresh fix. You still have to keep track of your throughput capacity and clip-test your fixer as it nears the end of its useful life to determine when the clearing time approaches 2x that in fresh fix so you can mix new. Or, you can keep track of this once, note the capacity, figure in a safety factor by reducing that capacity, say 10%, and then just keep track of throughput.

This latter, along with the 4x clearing time in fresh fix plus the safety factor, is what I do. Say it takes one minute for my film to clear in fresh fix. The "universal fixing time" for that film would then be 4 x 1 minute + 20%, which works out to 4 min., 48 sec. I'd likely round this up to 5 minutes and be done with it. Then, every time I fix that particular film, I simply give it 5 minutes; no clip test and re-calculating fixing time every session.

Do this once for each type of film you use and figure out the throughput capacity so you don't overuse your fixer and you'll save a lot of time and gain peace of mind.

Best,

Doremus
 

cmacd123

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Do this once for each type of film you use and figure out the throughput capacity so you don't overuse your fixer and you'll save a lot of time and gain peace of mind.

the other ting to keep in mind is that any of the T-grain films seem to exhaust the fixer more quickly. I have heard it because they have more iodine, but really I have no clue why. My approch is to try and do any T-grain film in the first batch when I mix fresh fixer. if you use # of rolls, I would suggest counting T-max as two or three rolls, when figuring when to use a fresh batch. I have an old habit of using Hypo check, and discard fixer when I get "Any" cloud from a drop of Hypo check in a 30ml beaker of used fixer. that approach "measures" the capacity of the fixer to hold any more silver. Doubling of the time to clear compared to a new batch is also a reason to mix a fresh batch of fixer..
 
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md_photo

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Thanks all for the detailed advice and inputs! Tried a Tri-X 120 roll yesterday after reading through everyone's posts. Will have to scan the strips this morning. One thing I am going to start doing is noting down what all I have run through the fixer.
 

MattKing

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I put a piece of painter's tape on my fixer bottle, and add a mark each time I use it to develop a roll. When the number of marks reaches my target capacity, I discard/recycle the fixer.
I also do clip tests, and track the clearing time - on another piece of painter's tape on the bottle. Sometimes the change in clearing time test causes me to discard/recycle the fixer even if I haven't run as many rolls through it as my capacity target would indicate.
 
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