They look like pictures taken with any other camera!
Kiev 4A Rangefinder or ?
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They look like pictures taken with any other camera!
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2006
- Messages
- 12
- Format
- 35mm RF
I posted earlier in this thread that I had bought an Olympus XA2 for next to nothing as a carry everywhere camera. I have only put one roll through it which looks good. However, I am now waiting for delivery of an XA which is the original version with a proper rangefinder and aperture priority metering.
I expect that this will become the camera which I take with me on walks when I don't want to be overloaded with equipment. I can always go back with MF or LF if I want to repeat a shot.
Steve.
I expect that this will become the camera which I take with me on walks when I don't want to be overloaded with equipment. I can always go back with MF or LF if I want to repeat a shot.
Steve.
Another small, cheap, interchangeable lens RF that could be considered is a Braun Paxette. These are usually pretty cheap.
The later ones are quite small physically, have decent RF/VF windows complete with framelines for 50/85/135 and the whole VF frames the 35/38mm lens. Mine even has a working lightmeter, and cost a whopping US$15.00. The only real downside is that the lenses aren't as readily available as the L39 or Contax/Kiev mounts.
Click on the thumbnails for larger versions
Performance is more than respectable. Click on the thumbnail below for a larger version.
The later ones are quite small physically, have decent RF/VF windows complete with framelines for 50/85/135 and the whole VF frames the 35/38mm lens. Mine even has a working lightmeter, and cost a whopping US$15.00. The only real downside is that the lenses aren't as readily available as the L39 or Contax/Kiev mounts.
Click on the thumbnails for larger versions
Performance is more than respectable. Click on the thumbnail below for a larger version.
OP
OP
Wow, that Braun is a great looking little camera. I'm going to look them up!
The shots in my RFF gallery were taken with FED cameras (one a FED-1, the rest a FED-2)...
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=6232
I have Several FEDs and Zorkis, but it would be difficult to pick a favourite - I love them all. (I haven't ventured into Kiev territory yet, but I will before too long).
Best regards,
Alan
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=6232
I have Several FEDs and Zorkis, but it would be difficult to pick a favourite - I love them all. (I haven't ventured into Kiev territory yet, but I will before too long).
Best regards,
Alan
I use the Kiev 4a with 35, 50, 85, and 135mm Jupiter lens. This camera is a lot of fun to use and has probably one of the best rangefinders around.
As for the frame spacing issue the clutch is the problem here. It needs to be taken apart and cleaned then reassembled without lube of any kind. After cleaning mine I had no frame spacing issues.
Light leakage is usually caused by the Yak hair seal along the track inside the film chamber where the door seals. Removing this and cleaning it then using felt cut from sheets bought from Wal-Mart will do the trick.
OP
OP
Well, two packages arrived this afternoon, one from the Ukraine, the other from Slovakia. It's quite a coincidence they would arrive together, having been ordered from two different dealers quite far apart.
I'm going to wait until my high school photography club meets on Thursday afternoon to open them. The kids will get a charge out of seeing what's come from so far away. We'll work a little geography into it too - nothing gets opened until we locate Kral'ovce and Donetsk. Later will be some research into the history of the FED.
In the meantime, one of the other teachers at my school donated a box of cameras he picked up at an auction, and among the contents are a brownie twin lens (I forget the exact model, the cameras are in school) and a really nice Agfa 35mm rangefinder in great shape except for a stuck focus ring. It's not one of the better models but it will be fine to use once we fix it. We're going to dismantle some of the less-attractive models in the box, to learn how they work, but these two we'll save to shoot with.
I'll post up some description of the condition of my "new" Feds once I get them unpacked.
I'm going to wait until my high school photography club meets on Thursday afternoon to open them. The kids will get a charge out of seeing what's come from so far away. We'll work a little geography into it too - nothing gets opened until we locate Kral'ovce and Donetsk. Later will be some research into the history of the FED.
In the meantime, one of the other teachers at my school donated a box of cameras he picked up at an auction, and among the contents are a brownie twin lens (I forget the exact model, the cameras are in school) and a really nice Agfa 35mm rangefinder in great shape except for a stuck focus ring. It's not one of the better models but it will be fine to use once we fix it. We're going to dismantle some of the less-attractive models in the box, to learn how they work, but these two we'll save to shoot with.
I'll post up some description of the condition of my "new" Feds once I get them unpacked.
OP
OP
Ok, we unpacked the cameras today, a 2a, a 3b and a 5v. The cases on all three are well worn, but usable. I like their weight, and am surprised at how compact they are, especially the 2 and 3, which seems to be in the best condition of the three. I really don't see why people disparage the poor model 5, either, to me it's a perfectly good rangefinder design... especially for fifteen bucks with an Industar 61 LD lens. (They say it's good, anyway) A Leica it's not, but it's silly to compare these cameras to a Leica. Originally they may have been based on a Contax design, but the design got Soviet-ized over the decades, and they are what they are.
Both of the Industar 61 lenses are sticky and will have to be lubed. Otherwise, they appear fine. I'm pleased with how compact the lenses are. This brings me to the collapsable 50mm lens on the 2a:
I've never handled one of these before, so please forgive the beginner questions --
1. Is this lens supposed to collapse and come out without any type of release? The one I received moves freely in and out, which seems to me incorrect. I'm used to a collapsable lens being able to click into place both in and out.
2. Is the knob on the upper left side (top) of the camera the focus mechanism or is it a viewfinder adjustment? When I twist it, the focus in the rangefinder becomes sharp or fuzzy, but I don't see any double image to align, so I'm thinking it's a viewfinder adjustment. If so, how do you focus? The lens doesn't swivel or move when you adjust the knob, so I'm a bit confused.
3. Is this lens supposed to have any free play, actually wobble, when extended from the camera? Mine is quite loose, I can move it a good quarter of an inch left and right by putting pressure on the end of the barrel. (I think I already know the answer to this one...)
The body on this camera, the 2, seems fine, likewise with the shutter. I may have to send the lens back for a replacement, yes? Or am I just making a beginners mistake ? I'm not too concerned about it either way, I bought the camera to learn, so I'd appreciate any info or suggestions anyone can offer.
Thanks!
Bill
Both of the Industar 61 lenses are sticky and will have to be lubed. Otherwise, they appear fine. I'm pleased with how compact the lenses are. This brings me to the collapsable 50mm lens on the 2a:
I've never handled one of these before, so please forgive the beginner questions --
1. Is this lens supposed to collapse and come out without any type of release? The one I received moves freely in and out, which seems to me incorrect. I'm used to a collapsable lens being able to click into place both in and out.
2. Is the knob on the upper left side (top) of the camera the focus mechanism or is it a viewfinder adjustment? When I twist it, the focus in the rangefinder becomes sharp or fuzzy, but I don't see any double image to align, so I'm thinking it's a viewfinder adjustment. If so, how do you focus? The lens doesn't swivel or move when you adjust the knob, so I'm a bit confused.
3. Is this lens supposed to have any free play, actually wobble, when extended from the camera? Mine is quite loose, I can move it a good quarter of an inch left and right by putting pressure on the end of the barrel. (I think I already know the answer to this one...)
The body on this camera, the 2, seems fine, likewise with the shutter. I may have to send the lens back for a replacement, yes? Or am I just making a beginners mistake ? I'm not too concerned about it either way, I bought the camera to learn, so I'd appreciate any info or suggestions anyone can offer.
Thanks!
Bill
OP
OP
Agggh! Now I get it! After fiddling around with the Fed 2 for quite some time while watching a baseball game on tv, I realized the lens was so stuck the focus control was kind of locked in place. Thus it was not apparent how to focus. But in examining the camera I began to understand how the rangefinder works and the way to go about cleaning the focus mechanism, etc.
Overall, I have to say the exterior condition of all three cameras I received is excellent. Yes, they are old, but there are almost no scratches whatsoever on the metal parts, including the more-than-50 year old Fed 2. The coverings are in great shape and nothing's peeling off. (Contrast this with the brand new Widelux I bought some years ago, whose covering began to peel within a month. I ended up just ripping them all off and now have a bare-metal Widelux. Works great though.)
So, I'm going to look up how to unstick these lenses and hope to get to it this weekend.
Overall, I have to say the exterior condition of all three cameras I received is excellent. Yes, they are old, but there are almost no scratches whatsoever on the metal parts, including the more-than-50 year old Fed 2. The coverings are in great shape and nothing's peeling off. (Contrast this with the brand new Widelux I bought some years ago, whose covering began to peel within a month. I ended up just ripping them all off and now have a bare-metal Widelux. Works great though.)
So, I'm going to look up how to unstick these lenses and hope to get to it this weekend.
The reputation is that the pretty ones may have never worked - and the "user" ones generally do. Meaning - if you get it working - you may be the first on that particular camera! Good luck!!
I have the Kiev 3a and it came from OK Vintage Camera in the Urals, follow the advice and you will be fine.
Bill
Bill
It's not really silly to compare a FED-2 to the Leica. The first FED were 95% Leica II clones. The FED-2 remained a Leica at heart. It has retained a lot of the Leica features which the original FED had: the lens mount, and of course, the Leica II shutter. The Soviets improved on the Barnack design. The FED-2 had, eliminated the perceived "deficiencies" (separate VF and RF, bottom loading, etc) of the first FED and come out with a very original and elegant camera which even the later FED models were not able to match.
The only Contax features it borrowed were the long base rangefinder and the double-locked back which slid off. long-base RF was eventually abandoned and the short-base RF was restored in the later models (3,4,and 5) perhaps because of the addition of the slow-speed mechanism.
Your lens appears to be acting 'normally', and you would have to prove otherwise by checking first how it shoots. What you should be concerned are calibrations which cannot be readily seen from a cosmetic examination of the camera.
Accuracy of the rangefinder to couple with the lens at infinity and minimum focus should be checked. Soviet LTM RF cameras need to be adjusted for infinity and minimum focus settings. You also need to check if the lens register (from lens flange surface to focal plane) is at 28.8mm.
The shutter should also be checked for even movement. Old camera shutters tend to be sluggish, and their mechanisms may need some cleaning (removal of old fossilised lubricants), lubrication, and adjustment. Check too that the shutter curtains are free from cracks and pinholes.
Jay
OP
OP
Thanks Jay for the additional information. I noticed that you have used the term "elegant" several times in describing these Feds -- as I examine the camera more closely and begin to understand how it works I can see what you mean. As a complete novice with these even I, by studying the workings, can understand how they operate, and that is evidence of the straightforward approach to the engineering. I look forward to taking mine apart and attempting to do the things you have suggested. I'll learn a great deal more in the process!
Isn't there something about not changing the shutter speed if the shutter hasn't been tensioned? I don't own one, but I guess it would be good if new owners were aware of this -- if in fact this is the case.
The safest procedure for FP shutter cameras with rotating shutter dials is to always cock first before changing speeds. However, later FED-2 (as well as Zorki-2/2C,5,6, and some Zenit which did not have slow speeds) had a double-dial shutter which allowed changing speeds whether the shutter was cocked or not.
Better to err on the safe side and change only when the shutter is cocked. All FED and Zorki with slow speeds require this.
Jay
Lowenburg
If the lens is a collapsible i.e. has a cylindrical chrome section, then it is supposed to telescope - to be compact while stored in the leather case.
It is pulled out to full extent and then rotated clockwise while looking away from the subject to behind the camera, it will wedge itself into registered poisition, you need to do this correctly otherwise you willl get blurred photos.
To make this easy the lens has a (an infinity) lock - a little button is depressed to allow focus, while it is locked the focus is locked to allow the wedges to be wedged.
All this would be clear if you remove the lens.
To remove the lens you lock the lens to take photos, unlock the infinity lock & then focus to closest distance and twist the lens anti clockwise and it should unscrew, you need to hold the two screws on the front face as the wedges will undo and the cylinder will rotate.
When the lens unscrews you should be able to see how the focus threads work and how the lens telescope mechanism works.
If you needed this then worse needs to follow.
Dont put the lens back, fisrt the lens needs to be set to the close distance and the telescope wedges locked so it is about to take photos. Both these proscriptions are to protect the rangefinder follower from being bashed as you insert the lens.
The follower is a precision arm thing at the top of the threaded hole in the body for the lens, banging the follower with parts of the lens wont help its precision.
Then you thread the lens back until the threads are fully done up, then you focus back to the infinity lock latches, then you unset the wedges and telescope the lens.
You need not be this proscriptive but it minimises the risk of interference between the lens and the rangefinder follower. The camera is not like glass but handling it carefully will help.
This is a real camera and not that easy to use, it is not a phone.
Noel
If the lens is a collapsible i.e. has a cylindrical chrome section, then it is supposed to telescope - to be compact while stored in the leather case.
It is pulled out to full extent and then rotated clockwise while looking away from the subject to behind the camera, it will wedge itself into registered poisition, you need to do this correctly otherwise you willl get blurred photos.
To make this easy the lens has a (an infinity) lock - a little button is depressed to allow focus, while it is locked the focus is locked to allow the wedges to be wedged.
All this would be clear if you remove the lens.
To remove the lens you lock the lens to take photos, unlock the infinity lock & then focus to closest distance and twist the lens anti clockwise and it should unscrew, you need to hold the two screws on the front face as the wedges will undo and the cylinder will rotate.
When the lens unscrews you should be able to see how the focus threads work and how the lens telescope mechanism works.
If you needed this then worse needs to follow.
Dont put the lens back, fisrt the lens needs to be set to the close distance and the telescope wedges locked so it is about to take photos. Both these proscriptions are to protect the rangefinder follower from being bashed as you insert the lens.
The follower is a precision arm thing at the top of the threaded hole in the body for the lens, banging the follower with parts of the lens wont help its precision.
Then you thread the lens back until the threads are fully done up, then you focus back to the infinity lock latches, then you unset the wedges and telescope the lens.
You need not be this proscriptive but it minimises the risk of interference between the lens and the rangefinder follower. The camera is not like glass but handling it carefully will help.
This is a real camera and not that easy to use, it is not a phone.
Noel
Rollei xf 35
Ole
Moderator
That's not a FED, a Zorki, or a Kiev; nor an answer to any question that has been asked on the last three pages of this thread.
Please elaborate.
It is small,solid and inexpensive.
Mine has a big dent in the side and works well too.
I once saw one for 20$ on ebay, buy-it-now
Mine has a big dent in the side and works well too.
I once saw one for 20$ on ebay, buy-it-now
OP
OP
Dear Noel,
Thank you for the authoritative advice. I am quite experienced in using "real" cameras, just not this particular one.
Bill
The CV lens are still just about available new
21mm
25mm
28mm &
35mm
If you can find the contax adopter 2nd hand new CV
15mm &
12mm
The Ru 2nd hand
50mm f1.5
85mm f2
are pretty much all you might want for a rngfdr?
The Ru
135mm is difficult to use but with care is acceptable.
Noel
21mm
25mm
28mm &
35mm
If you can find the contax adopter 2nd hand new CV
15mm &
12mm
The Ru 2nd hand
50mm f1.5
85mm f2
are pretty much all you might want for a rngfdr?
The Ru
135mm is difficult to use but with care is acceptable.
Noel
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