John Wiegerink
Subscriber
"Fixed income" In other words it has been fixed so that we don't have much income.

"Fixed income" In other words it has been fixed so that we don't have much income.
That doesn't sound right. $37/oz sounds more likely?currently about $37/gram
That doesn't sound right. $37/oz sounds more likely?
good question Matt!!And more importantly, how much silver is in each roll or sheet?
And how much does that amount/roll or amount/sheet compare to the cost of the substrate, the various other chemical components, the labor costs, the cost of backing paper (for 120), spool, cassette (for 35mm) etc.?
True, probably a very small amount. In our Capitalistic society a manufacture or more likely a retailer will look for any excuse to raise prices and justify it. The cost of silver might just be one reason? That's what makes Capitalism work so very well, until nobody or at least the majority of folks don't have the funds to buy their products anymore.That doesn't sound right. $37/oz sounds more likely
And more importantly, how much silver is in each roll or sheet?
And how much does that amount/roll or amount/sheet compare to the cost of the substrate, the various other chemical components, the labor costs, the cost of backing paper (for 120), spool, cassette (for 35mm) etc.?
Curious to hear if anyone else uses Kentmere 400 as their "main" film...and which developer you use?
Curious to hear if anyone else uses Kentmere 400 as their "main" film...and which developer you use?
I gave it up after testing half a dozen rolls and went back to Tri-X and Tmax 400. I found Kentmere often lacked value separation in the upper tones and I found that hard to accommodate.
Curious to hear if anyone else uses Kentmere 400 as their "main" film...and which developer you use?
Only briefly - I.e. a single bull roll of 135 (as RPX400, which afaik is the same thing?). Mostly pyrocat. I found it a perfectly fine and usable film. I eventually "upgraded" to HP5+ because I like it a little bit better, but I'd be hard pressed to express objectively in what sense.Curious to hear if anyone else uses Kentmere 400 as their "main" film...and which developer you use?
Kentmere 400 is visibly considerably better than Fomapan 400 in many aspects. TX400, HP5+, Delta 400 and TMAX 400 are all visibly sharper, finer grained and have much more potential for useful highlight/ gradient manipulation without halation issues. These are all greater than Just Noticeable Differences (JND) that would be used as an analytical perceptual comparator in a well controlled set of comparisons .
If someone is truly claiming that current TX400 is equalled by K400, it says more about the (rather startling) limitations of their imaging chain than about the characteristics of the materials in question. It does illustrate that a lot of people with strongly contrarian (to the manufacturers) opinions about certain budget materials largely don't have the baseline comparative analytical wherewithal to hold any meaningful opinions about them, and that (on the other hand) for an awful lot of end users the budget materials are more than adequate for the actual level of their real-world imaging capabilities. The seeming bump in useful speed (compared to some 400 speed materials) relates to some of the causes of the halation and sharpness limitations.
For the record, I've used dozens of rolls of Kentmere 400 in 135 and 120, and while a perfectly adequate film (and good by the standards of many films of 50 + years ago whose characteristics are often creatively mis-remembered or just plain invented out of whole cloth by their post-facto restrospective fandoms), you can see the limitations rather clearly. Nevertheless it is an excellent material for use within its range of competence (for lack of a better way of putting it, it's designed for a pretty tightly defined 'normal' usage without exposure or process heroics, thus why you get a Tri-Xish curve shape) and if you find yourself needing a photographic notepaper within how your practice works (i.e. just take the picture without worrying if it's worth the film) and aren't making huge prints (e.g. 3x off 6x7 or a 50x120 Noblex) it's plenty good enough. It just isn't equivalent in finite technical quality to current TX400, that's all.
often creatively mis-remembered or just plain invented out of whole cloth by their post-facto restrospective fandoms
I think Kentmere 400 provides substantially better value. I bought my last brick earlier this year from b&h at ~$6/roll, while tri-x 400 currently costs approximately $9/roll. It's a better film, but I absolutely don't believe it's 50% better.
A less expensive film doesn't offer "better value" if it's not capable of achieving the goals of the user. I found the Kentmere films substantially less capable of delivering the results I wanted, compared to the more costly alternatives. If I have to pay 50% more to get that last 10% of performance I want, I'm fine with that.
Maybe someday I'll find a situation where Kentmere isn't capable enough for the photos I'm trying to take, but after a decade of shooting it hasn't happened yet.A less expensive film doesn't offer "better value" if it's not capable of achieving the goals of the user.
Curious to hear if anyone else uses Kentmere 400 as their "main" film...and which developer you use?
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