Kallitype papers

[philsweeney]

What is bibulous paper? And is it easy to recognize?

Sandy

I apologize: bibulous: 2. absorbent; spongy.

 

[cjarvis]

Sandy, when you say "the developer lasts indefinitely," are you referring to that used for Pt/Pd or Kallitype or both? My experience is that my Platinum developer lasts indefinitely (all I have to do is add some to recover volume lost over time), but my kallitype developer becomes so silver-saturated that it leaves a nasty stain I find impossible to clear (at least with Cranes Platinotype). Do you have a method to combat that problem?

And not to put too fine a point on it, but sodium citrate will develop some nasty mold if you let it sit, so "indefinitely" is definitely a relative term.

 

[sanking]

Sandy, when you say "the developer lasts indefinitely," are you referring to that used for Pt/Pd or Kallitype or both? My experience is that my Platinum developer lasts indefinitely (all I have to do is add some to recover volume lost over time), but my kallitype developer becomes so silver-saturated that it leaves a nasty stain I find impossible to clear (at least with Cranes Platinotype). Do you have a method to combat that problem?

And not to put too fine a point on it, but sodium citrate will develop some nasty mold if you let it sit, so "indefinitely" is definitely a relative term.

If you replenish the used developer with an adequate amount of fresh developer you will not get stain. I find that replenishment at about the rate of 100 ml of solution per one print of about 8X10 size through the developer is sufficient to achieve this. However, the actual amount may vary with the actual paper in use so if replenishment at the rate of 100 ml per 8X10 does not prevent staiing, then double or triple the amount. And and once the deveoper gets so saturated tht it stains stain I would suggest replacing about 50% of it.

Another way of working is to simply always use fresh solution, using the mininum amout of developer needed to develop a printing without staining. I estimate this to be about 100ml for an 8X10 print. However, because of the small quantitiy of developer involvbed you probably need a flat bottom tray for this type of development.

Sandy

 

[philsweeney]

Why use potassium dichromate at all if you are attempting to build a negative with a DR to match the process?

Don.

Using 1ml dichromate per liter for the print, it takes 18 minutes to develop a N negative in WD2D. Using 4ml it takes 12.5 minutes. I don't think I could do a N+ negative with no dichromate or the 1ml per liter stock. Using 5% dichromate: the difference from 1ml to 4ml is significant.

Standardizing on the 4ml dichromate per liter developer stock, I can proof with AZO, if I flash the print and use a water bath.

phil

 

[donbga]

Don.

Using 1ml dichromate per liter for the print, it takes 18 minutes to develop a N negative in WD2D. Using 4ml it takes 12.5 minutes. I don't think I could do a N+ negative with no dichromate or the 1ml per liter stock. Using 5% dichromate: the difference from 1ml to 4ml is significant.

Standardizing on the 4ml dichromate per liter developer stock, I can proof with AZO, if I flash the print and use a water bath.

phil

Hi Phil,

What film are you working with and how are you processing it? I have no problem getting enough negative contrast using HP5+ or TMAX 400 and PyroCat-HD with non dichromated sodium citrate. Looking at my paper curves of toned kallitypes I'm seeing an ES of about 1.28 (I still have a few curves with other toners to plot.). I've not tried to proof with AZO so I'm not sure what advantage that you gain there.

Don

 

[philsweeney]

Hi Don,

I use FP4 (and the photowarehouse cousin) and tray development. Using a step tablet I have an ES of about 1.78 using the 1ml of dichromate. I did a test on COT-320 last night using 4ml dichromate (still drying).

Using a stained negative for ES. I got 1.6 using 1ml and 1.27 using 4ml. Your ES sounds low. But if that is what it is, it is.

phil

 

[philsweeney]

blue channel readings on the stained negative. I do not have a UV densitometer.