Kallitype how-to videos

[tnp651]

I've posted my very first YouTube videos, a 2-part series on how to make a kallitype. I hope you will find it helpful.
PART 1: Setup and coating
PART 2: Exposure and development

Tom Nelson

 

[Peter Schrager]

Thank you well done video

 

[ced]

Well done! Enjoyed both thanks.

 

[grimp0teuthis]

I've been thinking about getting into kallitype -- thanks!

 

[mard0]

Great video. My only point of critique is that no concentration are mentioned of the solutions that are used.

 

[tnp651]

Great video. My only point of critique is that no concentration are mentioned of the solutions that are used.

There are a few concentrations (silver nitrate, citric, etc) but I hope specifics can be handled in the comments. Thanks for your feedback.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

Great job with the video and the Kalitype print!

 

[nmp]

Very good. Short and concise - just the right amount of info. Thanks for taking the time and effort to make these and sharing. I love the idea of the coating rod. I am going to steal it....I use glass rod but I need a handle.

:Niranjan.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Well done, Tom.

 

[Larry Cloetta]

Really well done, thank you.

 

[awty]

Excellent tutorial. Short intro, no life story, concise and unopinionated, the way they should be.
I would like the basic how to in text I could easily print out, saves trying to write it all down.


You should do more.

 

[mitch brown]

this I really enjoyed ! now making Kalitype prints are on my to do list
very well done

 

[michr]

Beautiful work! Thanks for the video, it will be my reference when I attempt to make my own Kallitypes.

 

[Tom Taylor]

It was printed too deep which is why it popped-up too dark in the developer. Getting the correct exposure is the tricky part with the Kallitype and using a UV light box makes it harder unless you use a split-back contact printing frame so that you can examine the print during the exposure. If using a film negative the rebate will be readable if the exposure is on.

Thomas

 

[ced]

One method here to help with putting a handle on a glass rod or tube. Measurements need to be adjusted for width required.
Hope it helps.

 

[tnp651]

I would like the basic how to in text I could easily print out, saves trying to write it all down.

Hi Paul, here's the basics of it:
Papers for kallitypes:
Arches Platine
Crane’s Platinotype
Stonehenge Rising
Buxton Platinotype

Other supplies:
My UV light: QUANS 110v 20W UV LED light US$49.99 on Amazon
UV-safe goggles
Gloves (and eye protection?)
Safelight (dim incandescent or a yellow bug light)
Coating rod and/or brush (Jack Richeson 9010)
A flat, waterproof surface (plate glass?)
Flat-bottomed tray
pH test strips

Coating solution:
Ferric oxalate (20%) or Solution #1 (27%) cut 5:1 with water
10% silver nitrate
TWEEN-20
Ammonium dichromate 5%

Processing chemicals:
Developer: there are many developers for kallitypes. 20% sodium citrate is the most common. I use a developer suggested by kallitypist Russell Young using borax and Rochelle salt. See https://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Ferric/ferric.html
Citric acid
Toner (gold, palladium or platinum)
Fixer: 3-5% sodium thiosulfate (hypo)
Hypo clearing agent: 1% sodium sulfate

Here’s the sequence of development:
Develop: 10 minutes
First rinse: 2 minutes
Second rinse: 2 minutes
Clear (3% citric acid): 2 minutes
Wash: 1 minute
Toner: 2-10 minutes (gold, palladium or platinum)
Rinse: 1 minute
Fixer: 2 minutes
Wash: 1 minute
Hypo clear: 2 minutes
Wash: 20 minutes

Tom

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Stonehenge is a nice paper, but it should be acidified first for smooth, even tones, and an improved Dmax. Another very nice paper is Hahnemühle Platinum Rag.

 

[awty]

Hi Paul, here's the basics of it:


Tom

Thanks Tom I appreciate that.

 

[nmp]

One method here to help with putting a handle on a glass rod or tube. Measurements need to be adjusted for width required.
Hope it helps.View attachment 197608

Thanks Ced.

 

[Bruce]

Tom- Nice videos and explanation. Just make sure you were gloves during the process. I am sure you do.

 

[tnp651]

Tom- Nice videos and explanation. Just make sure you were gloves during the process. I am sure you do.

I do wear gloves, and urge people to do so in the videos.
Tom

 

[Opal DeRuvo]

Any insight on where to land between Sandy Kings’ 2 min development and a longer development? Currently using ammonium citrate with 2g ammonium dichromate / liter

Hi Paul, here's the basics of it:
Papers for kallitypes:
Arches Platine
Crane’s Platinotype
Stonehenge Rising
Buxton Platinotype

Other supplies:
My UV light: QUANS 110v 20W UV LED light US$49.99 on Amazon
UV-safe goggles
Gloves (and eye protection?)
Safelight (dim incandescent or a yellow bug light)
Coating rod and/or brush (Jack Richeson 9010)
A flat, waterproof surface (plate glass?)
Flat-bottomed tray
pH test strips

Coating solution:
Ferric oxalate (20%) or Solution #1 (27%) cut 5:1 with water
10% silver nitrate
TWEEN-20
Ammonium dichromate 5%

Processing chemicals:
Developer: there are many developers for kallitypes. 20% sodium citrate is the most common. I use a developer suggested by kallitypist Russell Young using borax and Rochelle salt. See https://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Ferric/ferric.html
Citric acid
Toner (gold, palladium or platinum)
Fixer: 3-5% sodium thiosulfate (hypo)
Hypo clearing agent: 1% sodium sulfate

Here’s the sequence of development:
Develop: 10 minutes
First rinse: 2 minutes
Second rinse: 2 minutes
Clear (3% citric acid): 2 minutes
Wash: 1 minute
Toner: 2-10 minutes (gold, palladium or platinum)
Rinse: 1 minute
Fixer: 2 minutes
Wash: 1 minute
Hypo clear: 2 minutes
Wash: 20 minutes

Tom

 

[tnp651]

Any insight on where to land between Sandy Kings’ 2 min development and a longer development? Currently using ammonium citrate with 2g ammonium dichromate / liter

This article by Sandy King says 5-10 minutes: https://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Kallitype/K002/k002.html "Development is visually complete in about 15-30 seconds, but a development time of 5-10 minutes is important for archival purposes: much of the residual ferric iron, which if left in the print could cause loss of permanence, is removed at this stage. Development can be ended when most of the stain on the sensitized but unexposed areas of the print, i.e. those areas that were masked during exposure, has been removed." I think I found a 10-minute recommendation somewhere else as well, but it's not in my notes. I don't think there's any disadvantage to giving a longer development time.

Incidentally, I've switched to a 20% sodium citrate developer (200 grams/liter). I found that the toner, not the developer, determines the tonality of the print. Citrate is cheap and easy to mix.