kallitype developer which one? why?

[eddie gunks]

hi all,
what is the difference between the sodium citrate developer and the borax+rochelle salts+tartaric acid developer. is one better than the other? what is the difference? i can make either but i would like to save some time testing as i am in pretty deep now trying to get my head around all of this.

thanks

eddie

 

[doughowk]

The hardest problem I've faced with Kallitypes is repeatability. Have tried Sodium Citrate, Rochelle Salts & Sodium Acetate, and all 3 yield different results. I use additives of Tartaric Acid & Potassium Dichromate (from Dick Stevens book); but they add variables to the process (replenishment). Would suggest picking one of the 3 developers after experimenting, then start trying the additives.

 

[eddie gunks]

can you elaborate on what the different results are?

thanks for the help. i ma finding all of this a bit daunting at times.

eddie

 

[doughowk]

I need to keep better notes ;-( Only tried Rochelle Salts a couple of times, so not much knowledge there. Initial color varies from gray/black for Sodium Acetate to reddish brown for Sodium Citrate. Stevens speculates that color difference due to silver particle size with Acetate producing larger particles. The final color, though, is primarily dependent on toner with Citrate dev'd print in gold-toner yielding a gray/black. Exposure times vary between the two, but this is where my notes/recollection fails me. The Tartaric Acid acts as restrainer with clearer whites. As with pt/pl, the Potassium Dichromate additive enables contrast control.

 

[Colin Graham]

When you get settled, try sodium acetate (75g + 3g tartaric acid per liter) Great native color, much cooler than citrate, also looks great toned in selenium after fixing; selenum toner #2 per Sandy King's article. A lot cheaper than gold or pd/pt toning.

 

[sanking]

When you get settled, try sodium acetate (75g + 3g tartaric acid per liter) Great native color, much cooler than citrate, also looks great toned in selenium after fixing; selenum toner #2 per Sandy King's article. A lot cheaper than gold or pd/pt toning.

Different developers will give different tones and colors. Some consider this an advantage. I do not, because for maximum archival stability a kallitype print (and vandyke also) should be toned, and when you tone with a noble metal such as gold, platinum or palladium the original color disappears and is replaced by that of the noble metal.

My favorite developer for kallitype is sodium citratre, but you must make sure to keep it slightly acidic. Also, avoid washing the print after development if the tap water is alkaline. Just take it directly to the first clearing bath. I use citric acid, which works as well as anything else and is dirt cheap.

Sandy King

 

[Colin Graham]

I agree, though in my case I had a hard time with the native color of citrate when I first started, and wasnt sure if I like the process enough to invest in an expensive toner. I was able to get a print color I liked though acetate and selenium, but not with citrate and selenium. It should go without saying that these are personal experiences.