Kallitype blotches

[Johnindc]

I seem to get uncontrollable blotches on my kallitypes. They are apparent in areas of middle grey density such as overcast skys. I'm using Lenox 100 paper and Sodium Citrate developer. Any clues??

 

[donbga]

I seem to get uncontrollable blotches on my kallitypes. They are apparent in areas of middle grey density such as overcast skys. I'm using Lenox 100 paper and Sodium Citrate developer. Any clues??

If I had to make a guess I would say it is probably a paper issue.

Describe your processing steps.

 

[Johnindc]

As said, Lenox 100 paper, 2ml sensitizer on an 8x8 inch area applied with a glass rod (4 passes). The blotches show up immediatly in the developer. They are not the result of subsequent processing (citric acid, hypo, toner). I'm using .2% tween and am wondering if it is necessary with Lenox 100 paper.

 

[doughowk]

It may be the paper & applicator combination. ArtPaper.com doesn't say Lenux is suitable for Photography - "It will handle all dry drawing media as well as silkscreen printing, hand & offset lithography, etching, and embossing." Christopher James doesn't mention it. Switch to brush application or test your process on another paper.

 

[Johnindc]

I'll try a brush. The Lenox is what Bostick and Sullivan recommend and sell..

 

[donbga]

The blotches show up immediatly in the developer.

That's a good indication to me that the paper is suspect.

They are not the result of subsequent processing (citric acid, hypo, toner). I'm using .2% tween and am wondering if it is necessary with Lenox 100 paper.

Eliminate the tween. IMO you shouldn't need to use it. I also prefer a 'magic brush' to the coating road.

 

[donbga]

Christopher James doesn't mention it.

Just because James doesn't mention it doesn't mean anything.

 

[Tomf2468]

Are the blotches about the size of your fingertips? I went nuts when I started printing kalli until I discovered I had to be very careful (far more so than in platinum) to not get finger / skin oil on the paper..... or maybe I just have strange skin.....

Tom

 

[Dana Sullivan]

Just to throw this out there, I've found a few things with the Lenox 100:

Firstly, print on the rougher side, not the smooth side. The smooth side gives blotchy and un-repeatable results, with less density. Second, it likes a brush coating so you can work the solution into the texture.

If all else fails, try adding a little bit of oxalic acid to your ferric oxalate, or call me and I'll send you a free replacement with the oxalic acid already added. The Lenox paper is just on the border of needing a acidifying stage, so I find myself adding about 2g of oxalic acid to every 100ml of ferric oxalate, just to make sure the pH stays low.

I'm looking at adding a couple more papers to our catalog, but they are all in the price range with the Fabriano and Platine. I'm still searching for the holy grail, a cheap paper that holds up to the processing while providing a good image without any pre-soaking or jumping through hoops. A $500 B&S gift certificate to anyone who can steer me to a paper that fits my criteria!

 

[Jim Noel]

I think you have the answer, but not all in one response.
Fingerprints on the paper are a strong possibility along with the need for more acidity. In addition, if you are coating with a rod on a surface which is not equally smooth uneven coating can result. Switching to a good brush or using the rod on plate glass should solve this part of the problem.

I find kallitype the most prone to problems of all the alt processes.

 

[philsweeney]

Do the blotches even out after toning? If not find another paper. On occasion I get small blotches even with COT 320 and they even out after toning. There are many papers that do not do well in the kallitype process. If you have no other paper try some COT 320 its expensive but worth it compared to lost time on others etc. Also double coating COT 320 is worth the effort IMHO.

 

[Johnindc]

Thanks for all the replys. I was also getting blotches using argyrotype to which I had added tween. I'm mixing a new batch of kallitype and I'll add some oxalic acid to the FeOx as Dana suggested. I had just received a bottle of argyrotype from Dana which I'll try without tween and applying with a good brush.

 

[Johnindc]

I made a new batch of kallitype and did not use tween and added 2g of oxalic acid to the ferric oxalate as Dana suggested . No more blotches so the culprit is either the tween or the ph. I still find applying the sensitizer with a rod works better than a brush.