I really do need a book, okay, So I should just set my ISO to 400 (which is the rate of my film) and change the settings one the b 1 2 4 deal? I really hate to seem like such a stupid-food.. but I just got this camera, and I have a photoshoot this Weekend I wanna take it too.
And.. Sorry for photoshopping the picture black and white, heh, I just bought the film in a hurry so I could test the camera out. I plan on buying black-and-white film..and then eventually making my own darkroom
Okay, I play with the settings, the light goes green, I take the picture, but the exposure seems a little long for broad-daylight ?????? I hope I am not wasting film. heh
We'd need to know the aperture, shutter speed, film speed, and local lighting conditions to offer opinions on that. Of these four factors, you've only mentioned the film speed and strongly hinted at the lighting conditions. One useful rule of thumb is the "sunny 16" rule: In full daylight (no clouds, no shade), set the aperture to f/16 and the shutter speed to the reciprocal of the film speed (for instance, 1/400s for ISO 400 film). In practice, of course, most cameras lack a 1/400s setting, so you'd probably use 1/500s or 1/250s. In extreme northern or southern latitudes, this rule may be a stop or so optimistic even in broad daylight. The required exposure also goes up surprisingly rapidly when you move into shade, cloudy conditions, the time after sunrise or before sunset, etc.
I hate to do this, but came someone give me a complete list of what speeds those numbers are? I am going to write them down and put them on a cheat sheet, I have a photoshoot this weekend and I wanna test out the camera
oh, first [decent] picture i took:
http://ic3.deviantart.com/fs12/i/2006/316/9/f/Front_by_punkrobot27.jpg
You don't need to write them down, except for the 1, which is 1 second, they are all preceded by a 1 as in 1/? meaning 1/2, 1/4 etc. meaning 1/2 second all the way on your shutter down to 1/2000 which is 1 two thousandth of a second.
Your filter scratch looks a little like a light leak. Uv filters are generally put on lenses as an innocuous way to protect them. You can take it off with little effect on your people shots in the woods. You need to remove it anyway and check that your anomaly is indeed what you think it is. Just remember that the filter did its job and saved the lens, so replacing it should be considered.
So I plan on getting my aperture wide open as much as possible, I know this may sound stupid, But I love the affect I get, plus I get a wider more deeper DOF
OH MY GOD.. I am soooo stupid guys! I just realized after thinking about.. how the lense has a scratch on it..
...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/punkrobot/815615-R1-06-14A_007.jpg (would've been a nice pic. but NO! the stupid lense problem.. grr)
...
That's not a scratch on the lens or a filter. That's a light leak in the camera. I have plenty of scratched lense, including my favorite LF lens which has a 6mm long gouge in the rear element. Believe me, a scratch will never give results like that!
To fix a light leak, you first need to find the source of the light leak. That can be a frustrating experience because there are so many possibilities and they can be difficult to detect by eye. I've seen light leaks around the edges of shutters, through ill-fitting shutter blades, around the edges of doors, and around a loose strap lug. Once you've identified the source of the leak you can try fixing it, although some fixes are easier than others. For instance, I just epoxied the loose strap lug to fix that leak; but I've not even attempted to fix the leak around some ill-fitting shutter blades on another camera.
One common source of light leaks is deteriorated light-proofing around the camera's back. Most cameras use felt or foam rubber as a light-proofing seal around the edges of the door, and this can deteriorate over time. You can buy replacement foam, remove the old stuff, and replace it. I bought a kit from the eBay seller Dead Link Removed and have been quite satisfied with it. The kit was reasonably priced and came with clear instructions. That said, materials are pretty basic and you could probably pick them up in many hobby shops, but it's good to have everything in reasonable quantities and with instructions for use. I've used my kit to replace a couple of cameras' light seals with good results.
In addition to the above, I did notice and you did mention that the hot shoe is detached from the camera. It is possible that light is coming in through the top of the prism, and is causing the leak right as the shutter is fired and the mirror is flipping up. Try covering the hole with opaque tape, and see if it goes away.
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