Kalimar K-90 SLR 35mm w/ telephoto lense

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JBrunner

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I really do need a book, okay, So I should just set my ISO to 400 (which is the rate of my film) and change the settings one the b 1 2 4 deal? I really hate to seem like such a stupid-food.. but I just got this camera, and I have a photoshoot this Weekend I wanna take it too.


And.. Sorry for photoshopping the picture black and white, heh, I just bought the film in a hurry so I could test the camera out. I plan on buying black-and-white film..and then eventually making my own darkroom

Yes, set the ISO to your film speed, and leave it there. Achieve your exposure by adjusting the shutter (the b 1 2 4 deal) or the aperture (the 2.8,4,5.6,8,11 deal), or some combination of both.
 
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dana44

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I took everyones advice and did just that.. Set it back to 400, changed the shutter speed and aparture, I have one simple question:

Okay, I play with the settings, the light goes green, I take the picture, but the exposure seems a little long for broad-daylight ?????? I hope I am not wasting film. heh
 

srs5694

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Okay, I play with the settings, the light goes green, I take the picture, but the exposure seems a little long for broad-daylight ?????? I hope I am not wasting film. heh

We'd need to know the aperture, shutter speed, film speed, and local lighting conditions to offer opinions on that. Of these four factors, you've only mentioned the film speed and strongly hinted at the lighting conditions. One useful rule of thumb is the "sunny 16" rule: In full daylight (no clouds, no shade), set the aperture to f/16 and the shutter speed to the reciprocal of the film speed (for instance, 1/400s for ISO 400 film). In practice, of course, most cameras lack a 1/400s setting, so you'd probably use 1/500s or 1/250s. In extreme northern or southern latitudes, this rule may be a stop or so optimistic even in broad daylight. The required exposure also goes up surprisingly rapidly when you move into shade, cloudy conditions, the time after sunrise or before sunset, etc.
 
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dana44

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We'd need to know the aperture, shutter speed, film speed, and local lighting conditions to offer opinions on that. Of these four factors, you've only mentioned the film speed and strongly hinted at the lighting conditions. One useful rule of thumb is the "sunny 16" rule: In full daylight (no clouds, no shade), set the aperture to f/16 and the shutter speed to the reciprocal of the film speed (for instance, 1/400s for ISO 400 film). In practice, of course, most cameras lack a 1/400s setting, so you'd probably use 1/500s or 1/250s. In extreme northern or southern latitudes, this rule may be a stop or so optimistic even in broad daylight. The required exposure also goes up surprisingly rapidly when you move into shade, cloudy conditions, the time after sunrise or before sunset, etc.


I usually Keep it wide open.. But today I was using it at about 11.. I don't exactly remember. I need to get used to using manual camera. I am using ISO 400 film, (which is set correctly) and it was 3PM no clouds, no shade ( I was taking pictures of the power lines) I live in Georgia, southeast USA. lol

sorry I can't give detials. tomorrow i will do that
 

JBrunner

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Try to keep the shutter setting at least above 1/125 or so (1/250 would be better)with that telephoto. That should be easily achievable with 4.5 on the aperture and 400 speed film shooting day exterior.
 
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dana44

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OH MY GOD.. I am soooo stupid guys! I just realized after thinking about.. how the lense has a scratch on it.. well, my dad said "That's the Filter" believe it or not.. it's the filter... has a tiny scratch in it... alas it's the UV [0] filter. I'll be shooting in a kind-of a wooded area.. I know UV rays affect a person all the time, but do I really need it?


Pictures i took (please ignore the stupid light problem)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/punkrobot/815615-R1-10-10A_011.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/punkrobot/815614-R1-21-20_022.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/punkrobot/815615-R1-04-16A_005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/punkrobot/815615-R1-06-14A_007.jpg (would've been a nice pic. but NO! the stupid lense problem.. grr)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/punkrobot/815615-R1-08-12A_009.jpg

Tell me what you all think? and flames are NOT welcomed.. hahaha.
 

JBrunner

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I hate to do this, but came someone give me a complete list of what speeds those numbers are? I am going to write them down and put them on a cheat sheet, I have a photoshoot this weekend and I wanna test out the camera

oh, first [decent] picture i took:

http://ic3.deviantart.com/fs12/i/2006/316/9/f/Front_by_punkrobot27.jpg

You don't need to write them down, except for the 1, which is 1 second, they are all preceded by a 1 as in 1/? meaning 1/2, 1/4 etc. meaning 1/2 second all the way on your shutter down to 1/2000 which is 1 two thousandth of a second.

Your filter scratch looks a little like a light leak. Uv filters are generally put on lenses as an innocuous way to protect them. You can take it off with little effect on your people shots in the woods. You need to remove it anyway and check that your anomaly is indeed what you think it is. Just remember that the filter did its job and saved the lens, so replacing it should be considered.
 
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dana44

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You don't need to write them down, except for the 1, which is 1 second, they are all preceded by a 1 as in 1/? meaning 1/2, 1/4 etc. meaning 1/2 second all the way on your shutter down to 1/2000 which is 1 two thousandth of a second.

Your filter scratch looks a little like a light leak. Uv filters are generally put on lenses as an innocuous way to protect them. You can take it off with little effect on your people shots in the woods. You need to remove it anyway and check that your anomaly is indeed what you think it is. Just remember that the filter did its job and saved the lens, so replacing it should be considered.

I"m going to do this.

Shutter speeds:

1
1/2
1/4
1/8
1/15
1/30
1/60
1/125(flash sync speed)
1/250
1/500
1/1000
1/2000

That's correct? Wow, I am learning new things every day! XD

So I plan on getting my aperture wide open as much as possible, I know this may sound stupid, But I love the affect I get, plus I get a wider more deeper DOF ... I may not sure the 80-200mm because I get alot of camera shake when using the zoom part

oh, and heres an example of the light ( I am into anime and games, so just ignore the people)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/punkrobot/Atlanta Cosplay Barbeque 06/battleroyalgungirls.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/punkrobot/Atlanta Cosplay Barbeque 06/imust.jpg

Those were taken back in June I believe.. which a POS digital camera... No flash. that's the lighting.

Here is recent, October:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/punkrobot/InuYasha Photoshoot 10 12 2006/DSCN0918Small.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/punkrobot/InuYasha Photoshoot 10 12 2006/DSCN0914Small.jpg

That's pretty much how the lighting is.
 

srs5694

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So I plan on getting my aperture wide open as much as possible, I know this may sound stupid, But I love the affect I get, plus I get a wider more deeper DOF

Actually, a wider aperture (meaning a smaller f-number) reduces depth of field, meaning that objects fall out of focus more quickly as they get farther from or closer to the point of focus. Some shots certainly benefit from this, but others work better with wider depth of field (and hence small apertures).
 

Ole

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OH MY GOD.. I am soooo stupid guys! I just realized after thinking about.. how the lense has a scratch on it..

...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/punkrobot/815615-R1-06-14A_007.jpg (would've been a nice pic. but NO! the stupid lense problem.. grr)

...

That's not a scratch on the lens or a filter. That's a light leak in the camera. I have plenty of scratched lense, including my favorite LF lens which has a 6mm long gouge in the rear element. Believe me, a scratch will never give results like that!
 
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dana44

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That's not a scratch on the lens or a filter. That's a light leak in the camera. I have plenty of scratched lense, including my favorite LF lens which has a 6mm long gouge in the rear element. Believe me, a scratch will never give results like that!

How do I fix that? I can't work on it right now.. Has film in it. hahaha
 

srs5694

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To fix a light leak, you first need to find the source of the light leak. That can be a frustrating experience because there are so many possibilities and they can be difficult to detect by eye. I've seen light leaks around the edges of shutters, through ill-fitting shutter blades, around the edges of doors, and around a loose strap lug. Once you've identified the source of the leak you can try fixing it, although some fixes are easier than others. For instance, I just epoxied the loose strap lug to fix that leak; but I've not even attempted to fix the leak around some ill-fitting shutter blades on another camera.

One common source of light leaks is deteriorated light-proofing around the camera's back. Most cameras use felt or foam rubber as a light-proofing seal around the edges of the door, and this can deteriorate over time. You can buy replacement foam, remove the old stuff, and replace it. I bought a kit from the eBay seller Dead Link Removed and have been quite satisfied with it. The kit was reasonably priced and came with clear instructions. That said, materials are pretty basic and you could probably pick them up in many hobby shops, but it's good to have everything in reasonable quantities and with instructions for use. I've used my kit to replace a couple of cameras' light seals with good results.
 

JBrunner

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To fix a light leak, you first need to find the source of the light leak. That can be a frustrating experience because there are so many possibilities and they can be difficult to detect by eye. I've seen light leaks around the edges of shutters, through ill-fitting shutter blades, around the edges of doors, and around a loose strap lug. Once you've identified the source of the leak you can try fixing it, although some fixes are easier than others. For instance, I just epoxied the loose strap lug to fix that leak; but I've not even attempted to fix the leak around some ill-fitting shutter blades on another camera.

One common source of light leaks is deteriorated light-proofing around the camera's back. Most cameras use felt or foam rubber as a light-proofing seal around the edges of the door, and this can deteriorate over time. You can buy replacement foam, remove the old stuff, and replace it. I bought a kit from the eBay seller Dead Link Removed and have been quite satisfied with it. The kit was reasonably priced and came with clear instructions. That said, materials are pretty basic and you could probably pick them up in many hobby shops, but it's good to have everything in reasonable quantities and with instructions for use. I've used my kit to replace a couple of cameras' light seals with good results.

In addition to the above, I did notice and you did mention that the hot shoe is detached from the camera. It is possible that light is coming in through the top of the prism, and is causing the leak right as the shutter is fired and the mirror is flipping up. Try covering the hole with opaque tape, and see if it goes away.
 
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dana44

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In addition to the above, I did notice and you did mention that the hot shoe is detached from the camera. It is possible that light is coming in through the top of the prism, and is causing the leak right as the shutter is fired and the mirror is flipping up. Try covering the hole with opaque tape, and see if it goes away.


Yea, the Hot shoe is broken off, I need to get it fixed. But yea, I'll throw some tape over it and see if that will fix it.
 
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