Just used some of Ilford's new Warmtone Dev.

[Matt5791]

Was printing a wedding shoot last night and was about to reach for the trusty Ilford multigrade when I saw the bottle of Ilford Warmtone Developer recently given to me (and everyone else on the trip) by Ilford.

I'm very glad I gave it a try because it has given the most lovely results - curently with regular Ilford MGIV RC.

It seems particularly suited to the wedding and portraiture I was printing. It just transforms the MGIV! (not that it necessarily needing transforming, but you know what I mean.)

Definitly going to keep stock of this in the darkroom!

Will post some results soon.

Matt

 

[blackmelas]

I hope to see some of that in Greece soon... I'm glad its working for you. Looking forward to your posts.
James

 

[reellis67]

I'd like to see those results too. I've been wanting to try both the Warmtone and Bromophen developers but haven't had the time just yet. The Cooltone is fantastic, so I expect the Warmtone to be great as well. Keep up posted...

- Randy

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

If you would like to see some results from the Ilford Warmtone developer, I have posted a ringaround test I did with two different papers here in the gallery...
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

is Bergger paper.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

is Kentmere paper.

 

[pentaxuser]

Was printing a wedding shoot last night and was about to reach for the trusty Ilford multigrade when I saw the bottle of Ilford Warmtone Developer recently given to me (and everyone else on the trip) by Ilford.

I'm very glad I gave it a try because it has given the most lovely results - curently with regular Ilford MGIV RC.

It seems particularly suited to the wedding and portraiture I was printing. It just transforms the MGIV! (not that it necessarily needing transforming, but you know what I mean.)

Definitly going to keep stock of this in the darkroom!

Will post some results soon.


Matt

Matt. Based on the material we were generously given by Ilford, it would be interesting to see the same print in multigrade IV in Ilford warmtone dev and in Ilford's or your usual dev for multigrade IV. I've yet to use either the cooltone or warmtone developer but your post has whetted my appetite.

pentaxuser

 

[Simon E]

I've yet to use either the cooltone or warmtone developer but your post has whetted my appetite.

pentaxuser

Ditto, and the wedding dress image in your gallery has me keen to see more of your work.

Simon.

 

[Christopher Colley]

I was a bit surprised with the results of my usage of the ilford warm tone developer, at 1+9 for 3 minutes I didnt get any 'warmth' at all.. (using oriental fb vc-2)

the dektol (1:1) was warmer than the warmtone developer.. after discovering that the ilford suggested dev times go up to 5 minutes I think I might try that next time, maybe that extra 2 mins development will bring out the warmth, also.. an attempt to use ilford mg4 FB will be made!

 

[Matt5791]

Ditto, and the wedding dress image in your gallery has me keen to see more of your work.

Simon.

Thanks for that - although I mistakingly scanned that photo with the scanner set to "colour" so it has a sort of colour cast to it.

I have another wedding to photograph on Saturday which is a big one and a 10 hour day. I will select an image from this and develop in both multigrade and warmtone.

I will shoot at least a third of the shots in black and white.

Matt

 

[Simon R Galley]

Dear Matt,

Pleased you liked it, I have to say I prefer a colder image tone, so my choice at present is ILFOBROM GALERIE or MGIV FB in the Coldtone dev, it works for me..

Simon.

 

[JLP]

Matt, i may be mistaken but if you don't scan in color mode you will have two identical prints. Again i could be mistaken, luckily i don't know to much about scanners!

jan

 

[Les McLean]

I was a bit surprised with the results of my usage of the ilford warm tone developer, at 1+9 for 3 minutes I didnt get any 'warmth' at all.. (using oriental fb vc-2)

the dektol (1:1) was warmer than the warmtone developer.. after discovering that the ilford suggested dev times go up to 5 minutes I think I might try that next time, maybe that extra 2 mins development will bring out the warmth, also.. an attempt to use ilford mg4 FB will be made!

Christopher, try using a stronger working dev, say 1 to 5 and increase exposure but pull the development to as little as 1 minute (I'm talking of fibre paper here). This will warm the print colour and will also reduce contrast. I often use this method when I print a high contrast negative. Another method of warming up paper is to use a very high dilution 1 to 20 or 30 and increase the development times accordingly, can be up to 20 or 30 minutes. With a Warmtone paper like Ilford's Warmtone I've produced prints from warm brown to almost red. Clearly you will need to do some tests to arrive at the correct exposure and dev times. These suggestions work best with a recognised warm tone paper.

 

[Christopher Colley]

Thanks for the tips Les.

 

[Bob Carnie]

Dear Matt,

Pleased you liked it, I have to say I prefer a colder image tone, so my choice at present is ILFOBROM GALERIE or MGIV FB in the Coldtone dev, it works for me..

Simon.

Whats with you Brits and the coldtone paper and cold tone dev,
Warmtone paper all the way.

 

[Simon R Galley]

Dear Mr.Carnie,

What's with you North Americans ? you print warm, light and flat......ish...I like dark, punchy and cold....ish... I guess it must be the UK weather* makes me feel like that..

*Although I do appreciate it can be a bit nippy in the Northern US and Canada on occasions...

Simon.

 

[Bob Carnie]

Dear Mr.Carnie,

What's with you North Americans ? you print warm, light and flat......ish...I like dark, punchy and cold....ish... I guess it must be the UK weather* makes me feel like that..

*Although I do appreciate it can be a bit nippy in the Northern US and Canada on occasions...

Simon.

Dear Sir

You are invited for a visit Jan 23 2007, please bring only your Bermuda Shorts and walking shoes.
As well lets not mistake dark, punchy and cold with a local ale.

 

[SteveH]

I just finished up trying out this developer, using Forte Polygrade FB. The results are outstanding, I really like it. Very subtle, but very pleasing.

 

[Matt5791]

Matt, i may be mistaken but if you don't scan in color mode you will have two identical prints. Again i could be mistaken, luckily i don't know to much about scanners!

jan

Now that it interesting - I hadn't thought about that!

Anyone got any suggestions?

Matt

 

[SteveH]

You have to scan in color. However, this can cause all kinds of issues, as the scanner's natural color cast will interfere with the scan, etc etc etc. Your best bet is to scan in color, calibrate your monitor, and do the best you can by comparing the actual print to what you see on the screen.
I suppose you can also scan in grayscale, then mess with the color ballance in your image software.
I think the first option will give you better/truer results though.

 

[Kobin]

I like chilly blacks and stark whites for many of my subjects, but others present better (according to my eye) with warm shadows and highlights. I love the Ilford Cooltone developer with MGIV. I haven't used the Ilford Warmtone developer because I have enough Neutrol WA to last the rest of the year.

I'd like to see someone post their assessment of the Ilford Warmtone against Neutrol WA. I'd be especially happy if the poster had used Oreintal VC FB II Warmtone.

Any one caring to share?

K.