- Joined
- Feb 8, 2007
- Messages
- 601
- Format
- 4x5 Format
Last night I was bored and decided to do something
Make a sloppy homebrew Pyro developer
I had this old Dye Transfer Tanning developer Part A packets laying around
Throwing this stuff into water should make a very good developer for matrix film printing or whatever but I want to do Tri-X
So
To make 1L
1/3 packet "part b" of the Part A (Pyro constituent)
2 grams+- of Pyro (perfectly white)
No Bromide so added about 2ml of Orthazite
No meta/bisulfite and was really at a loss
Figured I'd just use Boric Acid
About 10 grams of Boric Acid
I thought Boric acid was less acidic than the bisulfite so I added a pinch of Citric acid, too ..just for good measure or something
:rolleyes: Got bored went for broke
Added PPD as I had read PPD was a good with pyro
2 official pinches
Glycin about 1/4 teaspoon
I had part a of Part A tanning developer still so I put in 1/5 of that packet
1g metol
.5g ascorbic acid
.2g methyl paraben
1g bromide ..there we go!
.02 methylbenzotriazole)
All dissolved
To make 1L
105g Sulfite
2 teaspoons Kodalk
To make 1L
75g Pot carbonate granular
Shot some books with Cooke 158mm in dull room light @ F11
Tri-X 4x5
2 seconds --> 8 seconds
"ABC" 1+1+1+7
developed half sheet at 70 degrees 13.5 min
Very thin
developed last half at 67 or so for 25 min
pretty good thin neg
Green stain
no overall yellowing or anything
Fixed in pretty exhausted Kodak hardening fixer -I know
Low contrast print on old SW Velox F3 but tones look good
Pretty sharp
BEST PYRO FORMULATION EVER
what would you have expected from it? What should have I done differently? besides having just used D76/gone to bed
Make a sloppy homebrew Pyro developer
I had this old Dye Transfer Tanning developer Part A packets laying around
Throwing this stuff into water should make a very good developer for matrix film printing or whatever but I want to do Tri-X
So
To make 1L
1/3 packet "part b" of the Part A (Pyro constituent)
2 grams+- of Pyro (perfectly white)
No Bromide so added about 2ml of Orthazite
No meta/bisulfite and was really at a loss
Figured I'd just use Boric Acid
About 10 grams of Boric Acid
I thought Boric acid was less acidic than the bisulfite so I added a pinch of Citric acid, too ..just for good measure or something
:rolleyes: Got bored went for brokeAdded PPD as I had read PPD was a good with pyro
2 official pinches
Glycin about 1/4 teaspoon
I had part a of Part A tanning developer still so I put in 1/5 of that packet
1g metol
.5g ascorbic acid
.2g methyl paraben
1g bromide ..there we go!
.02 methylbenzotriazole)
All dissolved
To make 1L
105g Sulfite
2 teaspoons Kodalk
To make 1L
75g Pot carbonate granular
Shot some books with Cooke 158mm in dull room light @ F11
Tri-X 4x5
2 seconds --> 8 seconds
"ABC" 1+1+1+7
developed half sheet at 70 degrees 13.5 min
Very thin
developed last half at 67 or so for 25 min
pretty good thin neg
Green stain
no overall yellowing or anything
Fixed in pretty exhausted Kodak hardening fixer -I know
Low contrast print on old SW Velox F3 but tones look good
Pretty sharp
BEST PYRO FORMULATION EVER
what would you have expected from it? What should have I done differently? besides having just used D76/gone to bed

