Just Curious (Warm tones with Forte WT VC)

[Peter Schrager]

I'm putting this out here for some positive feedback. Presently I'm trying to get warm tones on Forte W.T. paper (VC) I've used several different WT developers
with this paper and have not found what I'm looking for. Used Zonal Pro WT; Agfa Neutol WA; Defender D-55.The Zonal Pro gave me the most distinct look. Unfortunately it is expensive and does not sit well if not used.
The Neutol gave me a distinct black with some trace of green effect. This is after toning in my homemade Polytoner. It's not really a bad look-actually quite handsome as the paper has great blacks-I was just wanting to see if I can force the paper to a warmer hue....any and all suggestions welcome.
Best, Peter Schrager

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[PeterDendrinos]

I'm putting this out here for some positive feedback. Presently I'm trying to get warm tones on Forte W.T. paper (VC) I've used several different WT developers
with this paper and have not found what I'm looking for. Used Zonal Pro WT; Agfa Neutol WA; Defender D-55.The Zonal Pro gave me the most distinct look. Unfortunately it is expensive and does not sit well if not used.
The Neutol gave me a distinct black with some trace of green effect. This is after toning in my homemade Polytoner. It's not really a bad look-actually quite handsome as the paper has great blacks-I was just wanting to see if I can force the paper to a warmer hue....any and all suggestions welcome.
Best, Peter Schrager

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I get quite warm tones with Dektol. If i selenium tone it i get even warmer tones.

Pete

 

[mono]

Neutol WA and Selenium toner gives me sufficient warm tone with this paper!

 

[titrisol]

LPD diluted 1+4 or higher gives very nice warm tones in many papers (I have tried up to 1+20).
I assume it will give the same effect of Forte and Foma, even though I haven;t used those papers in a while.

 

[Peter Schrager]

LPD

Tritisol-I have some LPD also and will add it to my list. Anyone else have any thoughts on this? How about a different toner like brown toner or am I going to do the research and then do the post....
Thanks, Peter

 

[richard littlewood]

Good old Kodak D-163 is warm. Also a dev time of around 2 mins will keep it warmer, and a strongish (1+20) selenium will really shift this paper into browns.

 

[Peter Schrager]

D-163

Richard-good old D-163 I never heard of-could you please post the ingredients so I can try it. Sounds like a good start...
Thanks, Peter

 

[fschifano]

Check here for the formula:

http://www.digitaltruth.com/techdata/kodak_d163.php

 

[Peter Schrager]

thanks and thanks

Frank-that was quick! Mucho gracias to all of you. I will try the D-163 and selenium when I get back. I'm going to make this paper do what I want it to or else.....it's really a great paper ;I just want to find a look that I can call my own.
Best, Peter

 

[Mike-D]

Never tried D-163, but D-52, which was commercially sold at one time as Selectol, improves the tones of papers like the Forte and Ilford warmtone nicely.

For years I used Dektol but really like the look of the D-52 better. You have to make it from scratch but the formula should be online and is also in most old photo books and the Darkroom Cookbook. The one they list as the equivalent to Selectol Soft is not as warm.

Mike D

 

[blackmelas]

The Neutol gave me a distinct black with some trace of green effect. This is after toning in my homemade Polytoner. It's not really a bad look-actually quite handsome as the paper has great blacks-I was just wanting to see if I can force the paper to a warmer hue
.

With this paper a bit of selenium usually does the trick for me. But if I want a really soft warm with no split tones, I'll run a print for a very short time through bleach, wash, thiocarbamide, wash well, and then into selenium. The thiocarbamide seems to activate the selenium in the highlights for a more even tone.

Also, I think I remember reading in Thornton's "The Edge of Darkness" that he saved the used Neutol until it oxidized into something he called "old brown". For a warmer developer, he then added a portion of new Neutol but I think that was with an Agfa paper. Never tried this myself, but I'd be interested in hearing about people's experiences with this, or better yet seeing post in the gallery.
Best regards,
James

 

[L Gebhardt]

Peter, a guy, whom I bought a bunch of darkroom equipment and many boxes of Forte WarmTone from, was getting the most beutiful warm tones from the paper. He claimed to be using Agfa Multigrade developer, and I did get several big jugs of it from him. I have been unable to duplicate his success, but I did find that the more dilute the developer, the warmer the tones. It is a project I am going to pick back up soon. So try some dilute (1+19 or so) Agfa Multigrade.

 

[Peter Schrager]

dilute developer

Larry-I've used LPD diluted at 1:6 or higher. I now have an arsenal of developers and toner ideas with which to work. Bleach+Redevelopment in
Thiocarbamide is also on the list. I want the easiest and most repeatable process I can muster to achieve what I'm looking for. Thanks for the tip...
What happened to our fall get-together?
Best, Peter

 

[titrisol]

How did the LPD work out for you?

Larry-I've used LPD diluted at 1:6 or higher. I now have an arsenal of developers and toner ideas with which to work. Bleach+Redevelopment in
Thiocarbamide is also on the list. I want the easiest and most repeatable process I can muster to achieve what I'm looking for. Thanks for the tip...
What happened to our fall get-together?
Best, Peter

 

[psvensson]

Is this the same paper as Forte Polywarmtone? That has the warmest emulsion I've used. When I develop it in Neutol WA, it looks almost like a neutral-tone paper toned with thiocarbambide. So it would be very surprising if you're getting 'black with a hint of green' from the same paper.

 

[Bob F.]

Is this the same paper as Forte Polywarmtone? That has the warmest emulsion I've used. When I develop it in Neutol WA, it looks almost like a neutral-tone paper toned with thiocarbambide. So it would be very surprising if you're getting 'black with a hint of green' from the same paper.

This is my experience too. It must be a different paper as in Neutol WA (1+9 I use usually) it is very warm indeed - at higher dilutions is should get warmer still.

Cheers, Bob.