Just bought my first medium format camera…

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saman13

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And what a camera it is. Presenting my “new” Mamiyaflex C2.

upload_2017-8-27_21-31-6.png


I’m definitely a newcomer to photography; I bought my first camera about two years ago, a Nikon EM and a 50mm E-Series lens. I wanted to make sure that this wasn’t just a phase I was going through so this is the only camera and lens I owned for a year. During that year I took an alternative process photography class at my university and my professor let me borrow his Pentax 67 for a project. The first time I pulled those 6x7 negs out of the developing tank I knew I wanted a medium format camera. Here’s a photo from that first time shooting medium format.

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That was about a year ago and since then I’ve let myself buy some “nicer” cameras like my Nikon F2. Coming from Nikon where there is seemingly an unlimited supply of Nikkor glass and accessories, I didn’t want to give up that versatility if I got a MF system. So, I kept my eyes open for a good deal on a Mamiya 645 or Bronica ETRS both at my local camera shop and online. I always liked the look of TLRs (who doesn’t?) but was turned off by the fact I would be stuck with a “normal” focal length lens.

I had seen Mamiya C330s and C220s a while ago when I was reading up on the Mamiya MF systems but I knew those were out of my price range (recent college grad). Then, when I was doing more research recently I realized that there were predecessors of these bodies that could be had at decent prices. So, after a bit of digging I was able to find an APUG member that was willing to make me a good deal on his spare Mamiyaflex C2 and 135mm lens. It arrived just in time load up a roll this weekend. The lens is the latest black body “blue-dot” 135mm f/4.5. I’m really liking this short telephoto for the type of portraits I shoot and with the WLF finder everything takes on that signature “3D” look when composing a shot. This is also definitely the prettiest camera I own. It has some dings and paint loss here and there, but I love its quirky styling. Especially considering it was made sometime between 1958 and 1962, it doesn’t look half bad.

upload_2017-8-27_21-12-51.png


A few weeks ago I bought a Gossen Luna-Pro to use as a light meter with my F2. Not wanting to deal with Wein cells or hearing aid batteries, I modified it myself to take two standard 1.55V silver-oxide batteries. Pretty simple job, just pop the back cover off and solder a Shottky diode into the power circuit that will drop the voltage the exact 0.4V difference between two mercury cells and two silver-oxide batteries. This light meter is proving to be pretty useful with this (coincidentally contemporary to the meter) unmetered camera. Yesterday I loaded up some FP4, stuck my Nikon SB-15 into the cold shoe and went out to shoot some portraits.

upload_2017-8-27_21-14-30.png


Something that will take some getting used to for me is remembering to always wind the film immediately after taking a shot… I already know there is at least one double exposure on this first roll. I’m pretty slow at the process of shooting with this camera: meter the light, focus, get the distance, set the aperture based on the distance and GN of my flash, set the shutter speed (remember to check the exposure comp scale on the left!), cock the shutter, compose, shoot, wind, repeat. It is complicated! Hopefully after a few rolls it will become more fluid.

upload_2017-8-27_21-28-35.png


The camera is not as difficult to hand hold as some make it seem, but I can see how a grip would improve the handling especially with the longer bellows extension needed for the 135mm. I might pick one up eventually. I just bought the 65mm lens for this camera and I think these two focal lengths will be a pretty good setup for the landscapes and portraits I shoot. For a total system (body and two lenses) that cost me less than $130, I don’t know how that could possibly be beat.

upload_2017-8-27_21-14-57.png


I’ll update this post in a few days with the first images once I get them developed. Hopefully I won’t be asking “why is the focus off” or questions like that.

Thanks for reading! If you have any tips on shooting with this camera or anything of the like (shooting portraits with fill flash), please let me know. Like I said, I’m pretty green to photography and I want to learn as much as I can from y’all.


Sam
 

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Mick Fagan

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For AUD $165.00 that is a hell of a system you have there.

Very astute shopping, here's hoping it all works well for you.

Mick.
 

E. von Hoegh

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All of the above.:smile:
Now, if you think that 6x6 negative is nice, wait 'till you try 4x5!
Then, there's 8x10!! (cackles).
 

paul ron

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congratulations! I know you will enjoy this camera for many years to come. but a bit of a warning.... MF is extremely addicting. this camera is just a mosquito bite, wait till you start the march to larger formats.

enjoy!

btw, you got an excellent deal.
 

Soeren

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Congratulations. My MF's count the mamiya 645 pro and rz67proII II and the yashica mat.
Developed some 120 HP5 this weekend but after working with 4x5" sheets the previous weekend my initial thought seeing the negs was "Man how tiny these 4,5x6 and 6x6 are" :wink:
 

mrosenlof

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my first medium format camera was a c330f and the 135mm - brand new in 1982. I still have and use both.
 

howardpan

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Congratulations! It looks like a beautiful camera. I just bought a Minolta Autocord a few weeks ago, and I was really pleased with it as well. I'm looking forward to my next print session to make some nice prints.
 

OptiKen

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Amazing story, Sam. Coincidentally, the Nikon EM and a 50mm E-Series lens was MY first 35mm camera some 35-40 years ago

Ken
 
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saman13

saman13

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Thanks all for the kind words!

Very nice! Enjoy it well. That flash is too wimpy for medium format, it will work for that lens and close subjects.

I could just be ignorant here, but does it matter if it is MF vs 35mm for the flash? Isn't all that matters the subject distance and the angle of view of the lens? So this flash, with its guide number of 82, should be able to illuminate a subject 15 feet away when at f/5.6 regardless of film format, right?

In any event, all I'm using the flash for right now is fill flash in outdoor scenes, so it does not have to be particularly powerful anyways. I also quite like this particular flash with this camera due to the fact that it can be rotated 180 degrees. This seems to make the fact that the cold shoe is on the side of the camera less awkward.
 

MattKing

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I think RichardJack is just used to using big flashes when he shoots medium format!
That flash will certainly work with the camera. Its light output just won't permit smaller apertures at normal working distances. And as medium format requires fairly small apertures in order to achieve a fair amount of depth of field, a small flash can be constraining if you need that depth of field.
I've been using a combination of a Mamiya C330 and that lens for decades. It is one of my very favourite lenses.
Be careful with hanging a flash off the side of the camera. If you bump the flash, you can end up applying substantial torque to the cold shoe.
 
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saman13

saman13

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Good advice! Whenever I'm walking around with the flash I have it vertical like in that picture. Then I rotate it horizontally when I'm about to take the shot. Hopefully that'll help protect it from unwanted snags and bumps.

However, I don't plan on shooting professionally with this thing anytime soon. For shoots I'm getting paid for (mostly senior portraits) I have a Fuji X-T1 I use. But then again maybe I could get someone to pay me for the novelty factor...
 

MattKing

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Whenever I'm walking around with the flash I have it vertical like in that picture. Then I rotate it horizontally when I'm about to take the shot. Hopefully that'll help protect it from unwanted snags and bumps.
I doubt there is any benefit from rotating the flash, given the square format of the camera.
For fill flash, it might even be marginally preferable to have it vertical, as that would place the flash a tiny bit closer to the lens axis.
Having the flash immediately above the lens axis would be even better, but the waist level finder necessitates a fairly complex and/or large flash grip.
I used to do wedding photography with my C330 and a Metz 60CT series flash - way bigger than yours!
 
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saman13

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I doubt there is any benefit from rotating the flash, given the square format of the camera.
For fill flash, it might even be marginally preferable to have it vertical, as that would place the flash a tiny bit closer to the lens axis.

Hmm, okay then my thinking was reversed. I thought having the flash further from the lens axis was preferable.

Another reason I would rotate the flash is because this puts the slide rule calculator and controls on top and right-side-up, respectively.
 

Theo Sulphate

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Hmm, okay then my thinking was reversed. I thought having the flash further from the lens axis was preferable.
...

That's what I thought as well - in order to avoid red-eye.

Anyway, in daylight it's not likely to be an issue because the subject's iris won't be wide open.

I like your approach of using the EM and the 50 for a year; that gave you valuable insight. I think you'll find medium format is an excellent choice: you get a decent size negative and the equipment is easy to take anywhere.
 

mshchem

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You need a 135mm mask for the "sports finder" to catch action shots . And of course the Paramender for close ups .
Great camera ! Mike
 

MattKing

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I thought having the flash further from the lens axis was preferable.

That's what I thought as well - in order to avoid red-eye.

The closer to the lens axis, the smaller the shadow cast by the human nose. Ideally, your flash source is directly above the lens, resulting in a small butterfly shadow below the nose. But if that isn't possible ...
With on camera fill flash, red-eye isn't usually a problem because the ambient light levels are generally high, and pupils are generally not dilated.
 
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Congrats! My first MF camera is a Chinese made Pearl River twin lens reflex. Comes with a leather case for $50 new. I still have it.
 

tessar

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You've got a great MF camera. I've had a 330s for years and gradually gathered a nice kit, 3 lenses and a Paramender, a prism finder, lens hoods etc. I've never been disappointed with the system.
 

ransel

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I have had several of the Mamiya TLR's - no complaints at all. My current one is the C220. I have also had several lenses - 55mm, 65mm, 80mm, 105mm. Never had the 135mm, but of the lenses I have had, the only one that I have kept is the 80mm. f/2.8 really helps when shooting hand-held in low light, and the out-of-focus rendering of the back ground is simply wonderful.
 

Sirius Glass

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The 250mm lens is great if you can deal with it being the only lens that has to be manually cocked while all the rest cock when the film is advanced.
 
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saman13

saman13

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The 250mm lens is great if you can deal with it being the only lens that has to be manually cocked while all the rest cock when the film is advanced.

With my model, I have to manually cock the shutter on all lenses. No auto-cocking.

I have a question about the chrome lenses. On my black 135 there is a lever that adjusts the aperture. I just got a chrome 65 and can't figure out how to change the aperture. You move the ring to change the shutter speed, but do you move the chrome pointer that points at the aperture? Is there a trick to it, like pressing it in or something? I tried to move this without it budging, but I didn't want to force anything so I didn't try too hard.
 

John Wiegerink

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Yes, I believe the C2's, C22's and C220 had no auto-cocking feature, but that and other things made them lighter and less prone to something breaking down. If it ain't there, it can't break.
 
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