JOBO vs Ilford

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Doc W

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You could use a prewet AND a more dilute developer.

I can't go any more dilute. Kodak doesn't recommend dilution F for tanks (I am assuming rotary as well) and I am already at dilution E. I may try to lower the temperature a degree or two.
 
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Lanthanum

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Thanks everyone for sharing so much great information. I will stick with the JOBO default programs, but be sure to be generous with volumes in the case of ACROS. Mixing valve arriving soon, so that will eliminate one variable.
 

darkroommike

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I can't go any more dilute. Kodak doesn't recommend dilution F for tanks (I am assuming rotary as well) and I am already at dilution E. I may try to lower the temperature a degree or two.
There are a lot of threads on this, here and elsewhere. Kodak J24 is another source. What you read about Dilution F in tanks being NR has to do with storage, nothing there about using F just storing it at dilution, and since Dil. F only does two 8x10 sheets per gallon there's little reason to store a used solution. In any case, HC110 at any dilution is too energetic for your purposes. I have successfully used it on an King Concept Imagemaker, many years ago, and more recently with my Unicolor Film Processing Drum but that was just for normal development. I've also used Acufine's one shot Acu-1 developer with great success using the Unicolor Drum. Again I shoot roll film and print on VC paper so don't do any N+ of N- development.
 

Doc W

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Mike, I also think it is too active and I am looking for something else. At some point in the near future, I am going to try D76 which I understand has results very similar to HC-110 but is not quite so active.
 

darkroommike

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Xtol 1:1 maybe, I've not tried it, but as my processing volume has declined, I am more tempted to try this. And here's a link to J109 data sheet for Xtol, better download it before Alaris deletes it! And the Jobo Rotary Journal states that Xtol is one of those developers which you should never presoak before processing. Something new for me to test.

http://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/prod/files/files/resources/j109.pdf
 
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bvy

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I use XTOL 1+1 with Acros, and while I don't use a Jobo, I do use constant agitation for the entire development cycle. The results are good and the development is even. My experience doing the same with HC-110 was excessive contrast and slightly more grain.

With Acros, I start with a bath of 10% chrome alum followed by a thorough rinse before development. So, in effect, I'm presoaking the film, but not for the purposes of aiding with development. Even so, the results are good. I don't presoak any other black and white film with XTOL or any developer.
 
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Lanthanum

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Hi Everyone, OP here. Just wanted to thank everyone for the interesting viewpoints and information.

Over the last 8.5 years or so I've stuck to JOBO's instructions to pre-wet and using Ilfotec HC 1:31 I've had zero issues with around 400 rolls of film developed with no streaks or uneven development, ever. So for me at least the JOBO recommendation is good!

Lately, I've been using a Rondix 35, manual rotary processing at approx 60 rpm, just because I feel like it, done about 30 rolls with it, pre-wet included, no issues as well.

JOBO say that in addition to giving more even development, pre-wet allows one to use the manufacturers times without the 15% adjustment, seems true to me.

Thanks again everyone.
 
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I have been using Jobo since the early 90's for film processing.

C41- no prewash
ID11 - no prewash
PMK - prewash normal water- distilled for Dev

Hope this helps
Thanks Bob. Could you share some times for regular Ilford films like FP4 Plus and HP5 Plus in ID11 for Jobo?
Do you use the developer neat or diluted?
 
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