Jobo CPP-3 Unboxing & Installation Experience

[NortheastPhotographic]

Without this part, the machine will begin to drain when the water level is around the 600ml mark on the bottles. With this part, you'll be able to get to the 900ml mark (or maybe even close to the neck depending on how things are aligned). If you fill the machine until the overflow point, then start it circulating, it'll take another 6-7L of water to get it topped off. So you either have to re-fill it once it starts circulating, or manually fill the upper trough before you start it circulating.

Exactly what I needed to know, thank you sir! My Kreolab sink has some odd fixtures, which makes it hard to find a hose adapter. It's easier to use the lab-hose spigot to just manually fill the unit.

 

[dkonigs]

Exactly what I needed to know, thank you sir! My Kreolab sink has some odd fixtures, which makes it hard to find a hose adapter. It's easier to use the lab-hose spigot to just manually fill the unit.

Only problem is that the machine expects a cold water supply on the inlet as a way to cool itself down if the temperature gets too high. Not sure how often that actually happens in practice, though.
My biggest temperature issue right now is simply that my darkroom tap is 15C, so it takes long enough to heat for C-41 that it stops with an error code (because heating took too long) around 35C or so. One solution is to pre-heat a large volume of water to pre-fill the machine before starting it up. Unfortunately, running both the CPP-3 heater and a TCS-1000 (Sous Vide stick useful for heating a bucket outside the machine) at the same time causes enough of a voltage drop in my darkroom that the lights flicker and the UPS I'm running the Jobo off of gets very annoyed. (Thankfully just running the Jobo by itself doesn't cause issues.)

 

[mshchem]

I fill my CPP3 using the fill feature, but I have my machine hooked up to a mixing valve. If I'm running color I fill the processor with 103°F water with all 6 bottles in place. I run the fill cycle twice. I hear where you guys are coming from, but I suspect Jobo has, over the decades have had people complain that their processor got swamped. I never filled my CPP2 to the point where it over flowed through the back.
I don't know if Jobo has third party certification (UL, CSA) etc. on the 110V 60Hz models ?

I suppose a person could put his new head on the CPP2, that would be naughty too.

Sgt. Schultz "I know nothing!!!"

 

[AgX]

Only problem is that the machine expects a cold water supply on the inlet as a way to cool itself down if the temperature gets too high. Not sure how often that actually happens in practice, though.

People outside the USA typically do not have airconditioned houses.

 

[CatLABS]

People outside the USA typically do not have airconditioned houses.

a clearly europocentric view. Many people around the world live in a desert climate, and many have AC in their homes.

 

[AgX]

Well, I found this statistic and I was surprised. Not only about the high rate in some countries where I did not expect it. Also the rate for Europe for which I got no idea at all to explain it. (By the way, the rate for german rsesidential use is 3%.)


https://cms.qz.com/wp-content/uploa...e.png?w=900&h=272&crop=1&strip=all&quality=75
(on the left)

 

[mshchem]

Where I live temperature varies from -25°F to 100°F . The dew point in the summer months is commonly above 70°F. Air conditioning is needed to maintain inside air quality. I run a dehumidifier in the summer and a whole house humidifier in the winter.
It's routine to use chillers to control sub ambient processes in the US.

Our tap water doesn't get above 60°F, that makes things easier for me.

 

[NortheastPhotographic]

So I am just starting to use the Auto features of my CPP3.

Let's say I'm doing C41. Do you hit start once the timer reaches 0, then dump, pour, and hit start? It's been my practice to start pouring at the 10 second point, but of course I don't want to lift the tank with the motor running.

I could also just do it in manual but I like the Auto mode. The built in timer is so convenient.

 

[Tom Kershaw]

I always use the auto mode, and just let the beeping guide me when it is time to press various buttons.

 

[pentaxuser]

I liked the technician who is always there to make the necessary checks on the equipment. It's what we would call a Cat Scan in the U.K.

pentaxuser

 

[dkonigs]

So I am just starting to use the Auto features of my CPP3.

Let's say I'm doing C41. Do you hit start once the timer reaches 0, then dump, pour, and hit start? It's been my practice to start pouring at the 10 second point, but of course I don't want to lift the tank with the motor running.

I could also just do it in manual but I like the Auto mode. The built in timer is so convenient.

For the developer, I lift at the 10 second point with the motor is still running. Then once it hits zero, I press "start" to stop the motor, lower the lift, pour in the stop bath, and press "start" to start the motor again. I don't do this weird 2-3 handed dance for any of the other chemicals. I think lifting while the motor is running won't do any harm. I've heard that lowering with the motor running is also fine, but I'm far more weary of actually doing that.

Of course I have absolutely no idea what you're "supposed to do," but nearly all processing guides assume you drain ~10 seconds before the end of the specified time.

 

[ic-racer]

Well, I found this statistic and I was surprised. Not only about the high rate in some countries where I did not expect it. Also the rate for Europe for which I got no idea at all to explain it. (By the way, the rate for german rsesidential use is 3%.)


https://cms.qz.com/wp-content/uploa...e.png?w=900&h=272&crop=1&strip=all&quality=75
(on the left)

I found statistics that show more people in Germany drive German cars than the USA! You all must be wealthy as not everyone in the USA can afford a German car!!

More on topic, one issue I have with the JOBO cold inlet is that in the summer my cold water is higher than 20C. Usually in that case I fill the un-used bottles with crushed ice.

 

[mschulz]

I found statistics that show more people in Germany drive German cars than the USA! You all must be wealthy as not everyone in the USA can afford a German car!!

Not wealthy, just car brands and models not sold in the US. Not all Germans drive BMW and Mercedes .

Regarding information provided by Jobo and what should be changed, I had the pleasure to visit Jobo last October and have a nice chat with Mr. Bockemuehl. He showed me around the offices and explained some of the products.
When I described my current CPE-2, he told me that it's about 40 years old, which is the problem he's facing: the stuff just doesn't break.

After talking to him, I can just assure you that even though some things may look oddly designed to you, he knows what he's doing and it's done for good reason.
Jobo is a very small company but yet very responsive to customer feedback. I'm planning to update my aging unit this year to a new one.

Cheers,
Michael

 

[mshchem]

I found statistics that show more people in Germany drive German cars than the USA! You all must be wealthy as not everyone in the USA can afford a German car!!

More on topic, one issue I have with the JOBO cold inlet is that in the summer my cold water is higher than 20C. Usually in that case I fill the un-used bottles with crushed ice.

The inlet valve is a nice feature. If the inlet temperature is above your set point, I'm not sure when the machine times out (3 min? ). Re:German cars. Compare the average taxicab in Germany to those in the US. Mercedes Benz seem to be a fairly typical taxi.
I always use manual, I should try the auto, but I've never used process timers. I'm a old dog.

 

[dkonigs]

I've been meaning to make this for weeks, but its finally here! My follow-up video on experiences and lessons learned in getting my Jobo up and running:


Much of the content has already been discussed here, and is generally based on my notes since making the last two videos.

 

[acroell]

More on topic, one issue I have with the JOBO cold inlet is that in the summer my cold water is higher than 20C. Usually in that case I fill the un-used bottles with crushed ice.

Same here in Alabama, in August the "cold" water line can be up to 84F (29°C). For those months above 75F (24°C) cold water temperature, I bought a roll of copper tubing usually used for connecting fridge water lines at Home Depot, bent it into a spiral and put quick connects on the ends (all my Jobo water lines have quick connects). This spiral connected to the cold water line goes into a large plastic bucket filled with ice water before it goes into the Jobo. That takes care of that problem.

 

[mshchem]

Nicely done video.
I can appreciate the water level issue. I'm still using the factory setup, but it is certainly less desirable than my CPP2 level. I have my unit hooked up to a mixing valve so I usually fill the machine with hot water. If I'm running E6 I put 6 1 liter bottles of room temperature Fuji Pro6 chemistry in the unit and fill the machine with 110°F water. As you point out if you want the tank to stay at 38 it's best to set the machine a bit higher.

I am impressed with the densitometer setup, someone tried to give me one that looked like yours but I don't have the patience to learn.

I have to ask about the voltage drop. I am not an electrician, but I would make sure something minor isn't a wry . When I lived out in the countryside, AC was giving me fits, electrician had to tighten down the huge screws in the panel that brought in the two 120V lines it was doing the same thing as what you have.

Now I'm in town, my house is about 18 years old, AC acted funny a couple years back, low voltage again, the fella replaced the 240V breaker in the panel. I couldn't believe it, I've done quite a bit of wiring over the years, I've never seen a breaker cause a small voltage drop, but it sure did.

Maybe you should start to sell your overflow pipe, looks nice.

Anyway nicely done video.
Best Regards Mike

 

[dkonigs]

Nicely done video.
I can appreciate the water level issue. I'm still using the factory setup, but it is certainly less desirable than my CPP2 level. I have my unit hooked up to a mixing valve so I usually fill the machine with hot water. If I'm running E6 I put 6 1 liter bottles of room temperature Fuji Pro6 chemistry in the unit and fill the machine with 110°F water. As you point out if you want the tank to stay at 38 it's best to set the machine a bit higher.

Yeah, I don't have a hot water supply in that area. However, I'd like to remedy that someday (probably with a small point-of-use gas water heater).

I am impressed with the densitometer setup, someone tried to give me one that looked like yours but I don't have the patience to learn.

I'm very glad I got one. Its helped a lot when calibrating/testing things. I hate having to eyeball stuff.
That being said, the hardest part of using this unit is that its now difficult to get fresh calibration references for it. (See one of my other threads for details.) However, if you're just comparing one reference to another (where only repeatability matters), its probably not a big deal. Of course if you only care about B&W measurements, then there are many more modern options.

I have to ask about the voltage drop. I am not an electrician, but I would make sure something minor isn't a wry . When I lived out in the countryside, AC was giving me fits, electrician had to tighten down the huge screws in the panel that brought in the two 120V lines it was doing the same thing as what you have.

The voltage drop is because running two resistive heaters at once (e.g. Jobo + TCS or hair dryer) is nearly maxing out the load on the circuit, and its a pretty long run. Those kind of things use a lot of power. The proper solution to this would actually be to have two circuits run to that location. Of course that's also far easier said than done, so I generally just monitor it and try to avoid getting into that situation.

 

[mshchem]

Yeah, a long run will result in significant V drop, and like you say those heaters will take as much as offered. I bought a nice air compressor for my darkroom, it's big enough to handle other uses. I either need to extend one of my circuits or move the compressor, too much on one circuit.

 

[Michael Mutmansky]

Have the specifications on the CPP3 changed? I purchased one this summer from B&H before the price increases and tariff insanity and am getting it set up now, thinking about connecting it to a water line for E-6 development (not really needed for B&W).

However, I got an adapter for the back hose connector and it doesn't appear to fit (female NPT connector, 3/4")...

It appears to be more fine thread than the HB thread, and it also doesn't appear obvious that it is a tapered thread (the T in NPT), so I'm wondering if something has changed. If so, why and what is the proper connector?