Exactly what I needed to know, thank you sir! My Kreolab sink has some odd fixtures, which makes it hard to find a hose adapter. It's easier to use the lab-hose spigot to just manually fill the unit.
Without this part, the machine will begin to drain when the water level is around the 600ml mark on the bottles. With this part, you'll be able to get to the 900ml mark (or maybe even close to the neck depending on how things are aligned). If you fill the machine until the overflow point, then start it circulating, it'll take another 6-7L of water to get it topped off. So you either have to re-fill it once it starts circulating, or manually fill the upper trough before you start it circulating.
Only problem is that the machine expects a cold water supply on the inlet as a way to cool itself down if the temperature gets too high. Not sure how often that actually happens in practice, though.Exactly what I needed to know, thank you sir! My Kreolab sink has some odd fixtures, which makes it hard to find a hose adapter. It's easier to use the lab-hose spigot to just manually fill the unit.
People outside the USA typically do not have airconditioned houses.Only problem is that the machine expects a cold water supply on the inlet as a way to cool itself down if the temperature gets too high. Not sure how often that actually happens in practice, though.
a clearly europocentric view. Many people around the world live in a desert climate, and many have AC in their homes.People outside the USA typically do not have airconditioned houses.
So I am just starting to use the Auto features of my CPP3.
Let's say I'm doing C41. Do you hit start once the timer reaches 0, then dump, pour, and hit start? It's been my practice to start pouring at the 10 second point, but of course I don't want to lift the tank with the motor running.
I could also just do it in manual but I like the Auto mode. The built in timer is so convenient.
Well, I found this statistic and I was surprised. Not only about the high rate in some countries where I did not expect it. Also the rate for Europe for which I got no idea at all to explain it. (By the way, the rate for german rsesidential use is 3%.)
https://cms.qz.com/wp-content/uploa...e.png?w=900&h=272&crop=1&strip=all&quality=75
(on the left)
Not wealthy, just car brands and models not sold in the US. Not all Germans drive BMW and MercedesI found statistics that show more people in Germany drive German cars than the USA! You all must be wealthy as not everyone in the USA can afford a German car!!
The inlet valve is a nice feature. If the inlet temperature is above your set point, I'm not sure when the machine times out (3 min? ). Re:German cars. Compare the average taxicab in Germany to those in the US. Mercedes Benz seem to be a fairly typical taxi.I found statistics that show more people in Germany drive German cars than the USA! You all must be wealthy as not everyone in the USA can afford a German car!!
More on topic, one issue I have with the JOBO cold inlet is that in the summer my cold water is higher than 20C. Usually in that case I fill the un-used bottles with crushed ice.
Same here in Alabama, in August the "cold" water line can be up to 84F (29°C). For those months above 75F (24°C) cold water temperature, I bought a roll of copper tubing usually used for connecting fridge water lines at Home Depot, bent it into a spiral and put quick connects on the ends (all my Jobo water lines have quick connects). This spiral connected to the cold water line goes into a large plastic bucket filled with ice water before it goes into the Jobo. That takes care of that problem.More on topic, one issue I have with the JOBO cold inlet is that in the summer my cold water is higher than 20C. Usually in that case I fill the un-used bottles with crushed ice.
Yeah, I don't have a hot water supply in that area. However, I'd like to remedy that someday (probably with a small point-of-use gas water heater).Nicely done video.
I can appreciate the water level issue. I'm still using the factory setup, but it is certainly less desirable than my CPP2 level. I have my unit hooked up to a mixing valve so I usually fill the machine with hot water. If I'm running E6 I put 6 1 liter bottles of room temperature Fuji Pro6 chemistry in the unit and fill the machine with 110°F water. As you point out if you want the tank to stay at 38 it's best to set the machine a bit higher.
I'm very glad I got one. Its helped a lot when calibrating/testing things. I hate having to eyeball stuff.I am impressed with the densitometer setup, someone tried to give me one that looked like yours but I don't have the patience to learn.
The voltage drop is because running two resistive heaters at once (e.g. Jobo + TCS or hair dryer) is nearly maxing out the load on the circuit, and its a pretty long run. Those kind of things use a lot of power. The proper solution to this would actually be to have two circuits run to that location. Of course that's also far easier said than done, so I generally just monitor it and try to avoid getting into that situation.I have to ask about the voltage drop. I am not an electrician, but I would make sure something minor isn't a wry . When I lived out in the countryside, AC was giving me fits, electrician had to tighten down the huge screws in the panel that brought in the two 120V lines it was doing the same thing as what you have.
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