Jobo CPP-2 Processors

[arigram]

I am thinking of getting a Jobo CPP-2 rotary proccessor (with lift) to develop my 135 and 120 films but I also thought it would be nice to also develop my prints like that with the 2800 tank series.
My darkroom is small so if I am able to process up to 50x60cm (20x24") prints that would be really great as even 30x40cm (12x16") trays take alll the space. I would like to know what you think.
1. Should I get the 1500 or the 2500 series tanks? I am not planning to move to large format any time soon as apart from the camera and lens that would also mean I would need a new enlarger. 1500 series are more economic but with 2500 you can fit more film.
2. What tanks should I get for prints? I am at the moment printing 13x17cm (5x7"), 20x25cm (8x10") and 30x40cm (12x16") both in RC and FB but thinking of doing a somewhat rare print up to 50x60cm (20x24") if the photograph and the occussion demands it. Should I get two or three different ones for matters of economy of chemicals or just the large one would suffice?
3. What water connections does it need? From what I understand it also has a cold water connection?
4. If you feel the tempeting basin with water once, I assume you don't really need to change it often as the water is not used, right?
5. Any other piece of advice?

 

[Dimitri]

Ari, go for the 2500 series tanks only of you intend to develop 4X5 negs. Otherwise it's a waste of chemicals (at least that's my opinion). The 1500 series tanks can go up to 8 35mm films in one go (1520 tank plus two 1530 extesions). I don't know what your through put is, so I can't really say whether this is sufficient for you.

Have a look at the jobo site for more info on tank availability.

For prints the 2850 tank should be OK.

One small note. When you order (the Greek rep is Skiadopoulos) make sure to tell them that you want the tanks with cog wheels (code ending in 3, ie 2853).

For the water connection you can modify the Gardena quick couplings to connect it to the water line (but it won't help much during sumertime in Greece, unless the water pipes are well insulated or underground .

The water can be left in, but get some algaecide (from any pet shop selling aquarium supplies), since it will turn green after some time.

One final note. Are you developing color films or just b&w? The CPP has a better temp control than the CPE, but imho it could be an overkill pricewise, if you only develop b&w

 

[Nick Zentena]

Colour or B&W? If it's B&W I doubt you'll find the difference in chemical use between the 2500 and 1500 tanks an issue. The five reel 2551 tank needs something like 600ml of chemicals for five rolls of 35mm or six rolls of 120. Not exactly a problem with B&W. The 2500 and 2800 tanks are basically the same tank with different lids. The 2800s also have ridges on the inside.

The 2850 is a good choice but it's only a 16x20 tank. If you get this tank then I'd take the extension off and use the bottom for 8x10. I'd get the 2 reel 2521 film tank. The 2521 will fit the bottom of the extension from the 2850 and work like a 2840 11x14 print tank. You can't do stuff like this if you go with the 1500 tanks over the 2500s. You would just share the one lid between the two tanks. More tanks mean less tank drying.

 

[hka]

The 2500 tanks are better because the space between the filmwinding is wider and therefore the flow of developer is much smoother. You've got no darker and lighter developing stripes on your negs as where possible in the 1520 tanks. The amount of developer for a 1520 against a 2523 tank is just a 30 cc?? Put a little water extra in the developer and add some extra developingtime. No problem.

 

[arigram]

Thank you guys.
The reasons I am going for the CPP instead of the CPE is for the large capacity of film which I will need in the future but mainly for the large print capabillity of the former as my darkroom is small like I mentioned before and wouldn't fit such large trays.
Considering that at the moment I use about 1300-1500ml for 3 120 films with a Paterson tank, the economy with the Jobo would be great. Plus I want the ease of developing more than one print at a time. Anything to make my time in the darkroom better and easier.

I see that the difference between 1500 and 2500 in chemical use is quite small, but depends on the tank used (e.g. the 10 120 film tank 2583 is 1250ml instead of the 10 120 film tanks of the 1500 series that add to 900ml).
What Harry is talking about is something to consider though even though it is not that importand. I'll think about it.

I do only BW, but you never know in the future...

Btw, Dimitri, I won't be ordering from Skiadopoulos but directly from Germany. I don't trust the greek dealers much and it makes no difference as it will still have to be ordered by them and then shipped to Crete.

 

[Fotohuis]

If you want to rotate only, I should go for the 2500 system.

I am using an inversion system (Heiland TAS) and the 1520 and 1540 tanks.
Then it works very well and there is a significant volume difference between the 1500 and 2500 in this matter.

I am using not very high quantities of film and in the 1540 I can develop with inversion system 4X 120 Rollfilm in 1000 ml in one cycle (910 ml is the minimum).

@ Harry: Did you try you new LPL 4X5" already?

Best regards,

Robert

www.FotohuisRoVo.nl

 

[Nick Zentena]

I do only BW, but you never know in the future...

IMHO then forget the processor. Look for something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=29993&item=3873851853&rd=1

Get the model that reverses direction. Unicolor or Beseler. You've mentioned 1.2litres of solution. Check the specs on CPP-2.

http://www.jobo-usa.com/faq/drums_on_motorbase.htm

 

[arigram]

Thank you Nick but I need the water tempering abillities of the Jobo because the great temperature changes here in Greece. Plus the lift will be a great help.
For certain reasons, money is not a big obstacle at the moment...
(just at the moment)

 

[Nick Zentena]

Nice thing about the Jobo tanks is they don't heat up/cool down that quickly. I don't even worry about a tempering bath for the drums with colour work. All I do is temper the chemicals. The tanks do a great job of maintaining a steady temp.

 

[Dimitri]

Ari, I would also be hesitant to order from Skiadopoulos (I've been waiting for a 2523 tank for over 2 weeks now). Germany, as you say, is probably the best bet.

As for the lift you are wrong. It not just a great help. It is THE great help . It makes everything so easy.

 

[hka]

@ Harry: Did you try you new LPL 4X5" already?

Best regards,

Robert
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Yes Robert,
Its amazing that this LF-enlagers works so easy. Very good quality, steady and quit good focussing system. My arms are now long enough for both looking with my eye on the Peak focusser and my left hand on the fine focus remote knob to get the grain sharp. In the meantime I have to rebuild my darkroom because this enlager fits not on the existing table. So my carpenter made today a new and bigger table for it with a integrated lightproof paper drawer.
The paint is still wet to finish to whole project and fix it on the wall.
I keep you informed.

 

[hka]

Thank you Nick but I need the water tempering abillities of the Jobo because the great temperature changes here in Greece. Plus the lift will be a great help.
For certain reasons, money is not a big obstacle at the moment...
(just at the moment)

Just look for a great deal on www.ebay.de. There are a lot of used CPP2 for a very small price. I bouhgt one 2 years ago compleet with lift and several tanks for less than $200,00 included shipping costs to the Netherlands. All the stuff was in a very good condition and works perfect. I saved over $1000,00 for a new one. In that case I'am not longer talking about a 100 or 300 cc more developer...