I had an unfortunate accident yesterday and my CPE2 now has a decent crack in the base where the water goes. Does anyone know of any sort of tape or compound that might fix this? The black plastic I presume is ABS, but I'm not sure.
JOBO base repair.
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you can also use patching mess sheet for flat surface.
Of course you could use the right glue: https://www.acehardware.com/departm...VgobACh07eQd5EAQYBCABEgKi2PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
There are other brands this is just one.
I'd also use a sheet of ABS glued on the inside of the tub because relying on the surface
area(edges of the crack) of the damaged area it WILL need some extra support.
Epoxy may be too brittle for a permanent fix because of the flexibility of the tank.
There are other brands this is just one.
I'd also use a sheet of ABS glued on the inside of the tub because relying on the surface
area(edges of the crack) of the damaged area it WILL need some extra support.
Epoxy may be too brittle for a permanent fix because of the flexibility of the tank.
There are special plastic cements for ABS containing the right solvents.
here just one example, but there are also ones in small tubes:
https://epos.henkel.com/tds/TIS6
Cement a strip of ABS sheet over the fracture. In addition you might add rivets.
Gorilla Glue. Follow the directions and use clamps.
3M makes some amazing metal tapes, aluminum. In my previous life I worked for Whirlpool, Maytag etc. making refrigerators. We thermoformed the inside interior liners out of ABS. You can solvent weld (glue) the crack or if it's in a easy to access place you can use a metal tape. Here in the USA we have a brand of heavy "duct tape" called Gorilla tape. I used some of this to seal a bit of duct work for an outside vent. It's held fine for over two years.
For imperfections in our interior liners we would dissolve some of the ABS in solvent fill the hole and smooth it out. I wouldn't recommend trying to fill it.
Personally I would try tape on the inside. Epoxy wouldn't be my first choice, but if you roughed up the surface and apply a thick ABS plumbing cement, and have good adhesion that would work too.
We used the 3M aluminum tape on the back side of the refrigerator liners from time to time, in the corners, to provide extra chemical resistance, from polyurethane foam insulation.
For imperfections in our interior liners we would dissolve some of the ABS in solvent fill the hole and smooth it out. I wouldn't recommend trying to fill it.
Personally I would try tape on the inside. Epoxy wouldn't be my first choice, but if you roughed up the surface and apply a thick ABS plumbing cement, and have good adhesion that would work too.
We used the 3M aluminum tape on the back side of the refrigerator liners from time to time, in the corners, to provide extra chemical resistance, from polyurethane foam insulation.
Glue on it's own will not work for long. To make it long term and permanent, if you can get a piece of fibre glass matting, not too coarse and coat it with resin (two pack) and apply to the base. underneath AND above.
The resin needs to soak in and can be a messy job so use vinyl gloves. Before it has a chance to harden apply a further coat of resin over the top of the repair. The resin will get warm as it cures but this is part of the process. Do the inside first finish that then follow up with the underside. It may seem a little pricy at the time but much cheaper than an ew processor.
The matting I refer to is the same material that is used to make fibre glass canoes or repairing car bodies. It is tough and flexible so will last many years. The surfaces have to be completely dry, clean of grease, dust or anything else and slightly roughened with abrasive paper.
The resin needs to soak in and can be a messy job so use vinyl gloves. Before it has a chance to harden apply a further coat of resin over the top of the repair. The resin will get warm as it cures but this is part of the process. Do the inside first finish that then follow up with the underside. It may seem a little pricy at the time but much cheaper than an ew processor.
The matting I refer to is the same material that is used to make fibre glass canoes or repairing car bodies. It is tough and flexible so will last many years. The surfaces have to be completely dry, clean of grease, dust or anything else and slightly roughened with abrasive paper.
Get to your local garden centre and pick up a pond repair patch .
There designed for underwater ( obviously ) and are flexible , in case there is any movement due to the crack .
If there's any danger of the crack growing drill a small hole at each end of it to stop it spreading before the repair .
Using an epoxy in the crack will help make it solid again as well , and the patch will give you piece of mind it'll stay watertight .
There designed for underwater ( obviously ) and are flexible , in case there is any movement due to the crack .
If there's any danger of the crack growing drill a small hole at each end of it to stop it spreading before the repair .
Using an epoxy in the crack will help make it solid again as well , and the patch will give you piece of mind it'll stay watertight .
We are quite sure on the material, and a test with the respective cement at some hidden corner shall proof that.
In case a material cannot be cemented, just use splinting sheets and a rubber gasket and rivet the fractured parts together.
In case a material cannot be cemented, just use splinting sheets and a rubber gasket and rivet the fractured parts together.
Dymo embossed metal labels includes stainless steel and, if the crack is no so wide, more or less a straight length, you can epoxy a strip of this to the crack, inside and out, or try using an ABS solvent to weld the strips in place, using clamps, on the outside, such as the rubber strips used to constrict blood flow when taking blood work for the labs or inserting an IV or needle.
Try a nurf ball, about half a size again of the interior dimension as an inside pressure 'clamp' and just be sure to use wax paper to no allow the repair glue/solvent touch the ball directly.
If you can no find/use the Dymo label material, visit a thrift shop and check the kitchen items and lamps, etc for thin stainless, a cheap bowl, or even a plain place setting table knife or spoon will work, and cut/saw/grind out the pieces you need and shape them on an mini anvil or block of white oak, until you have a good fit.
Hope this helps.
Eli
Try a nurf ball, about half a size again of the interior dimension as an inside pressure 'clamp' and just be sure to use wax paper to no allow the repair glue/solvent touch the ball directly.
If you can no find/use the Dymo label material, visit a thrift shop and check the kitchen items and lamps, etc for thin stainless, a cheap bowl, or even a plain place setting table knife or spoon will work, and cut/saw/grind out the pieces you need and shape them on an mini anvil or block of white oak, until you have a good fit.
Hope this helps.
Eli
I forgot to mention, using carbide paper to thin down too thick metal so it can better conform to the tank's geometry.
Cheers.
Cheers.
SOLVED!
A plumber told me about a product called Sikaflex, it is used to waterproof joints on boats, it is marine grade. After two applications it still leaked until I noticed that I had missed a part of the crack, the 3rd application worked perfectly and the base is again waterproof, I did rough up the area with wet and dry before applying the Sikaflex. So if you ever crack your Jobo base, this stuff works.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/sika-310ml-black-sikaflex-291-marine-and-construction-sealant_p1210247
Thanks for all the replies.
A plumber told me about a product called Sikaflex, it is used to waterproof joints on boats, it is marine grade. After two applications it still leaked until I noticed that I had missed a part of the crack, the 3rd application worked perfectly and the base is again waterproof, I did rough up the area with wet and dry before applying the Sikaflex. So if you ever crack your Jobo base, this stuff works.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/sika-310ml-black-sikaflex-291-marine-and-construction-sealant_p1210247
Thanks for all the replies.
This compound is a polyurethane based, sealant paste, curing to an elastic seal by means of vapour in the air.
As stated in this thread such sealing only works if the crack is mechanically stable already.
The manufacturter does not advise it as cement, as under a crack stabilizing sheet,. Furthermore it may induce stress crack corrosion at some thermoplastics.
As stated in this thread such sealing only works if the crack is mechanically stable already.
The manufacturter does not advise it as cement, as under a crack stabilizing sheet,. Furthermore it may induce stress crack corrosion at some thermoplastics.
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Has anyone here tried the dark or clear Gorilla Glue, as a gap filling alternative and, if so, what was your experince?
It is inert after curing, IIRC, so no danger of weakening the bond no damage to the plastic, and it can be sanded or cut down where needed, though I'd leave a fine patch on each side, so any expansion does no move the center 'plug'.
It is inert after curing, IIRC, so no danger of weakening the bond no damage to the plastic, and it can be sanded or cut down where needed, though I'd leave a fine patch on each side, so any expansion does no move the center 'plug'.
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