JOBO 3005 Expert Sheet Film Drum on motor base?

[PhotoSmith]

I just acquired a JOBO 3005 Expert film processing tank for 5x7 and 8x10 negatives. I would like some advice on how to get the best results with B&W negatives processed on a Cibachrome motor base, not a JOBO processor.

I thought I would use a 2 minute pre-soak, then process the film. I also figured I would need to cut back on my processing times by 15%-20% due to continuous agitation.

How much developer should I use in the tank? Pyrocat-HD recommendation is a minimum of 75ml per 5x7 sheet. D-23 requires 111ml per sheet minimum. Since it has a 5 sheet capacity should I standardize all of my developer at 600ml? It seems a little wasteful with the Pyro, eventhough pyro is fairly inexpensive.

Do the sheets need to be loaded all the way into the bottom of the tubes? It is hard to reach the 5x7 sheets when they are on the bottom.

Any tips to obtain the best results are appreciated! Thanks.

 

[Ian Leake]

I doubt the specific motor base manufacturer makes much difference _ use a "Simma-Roller" base which has a groovy rocking motion, and it works just fine. But I'd test with some high key negs to see if you get any funny effects (e.g unevenness or bromide drag).

You need at least 5 minutes pre-soak, and will almost certainly need to reduce dev times - but test this obviously. The manual says minimum of 270ml for the 3005, though it goes on to say that for E6 you should use 126ml per 8x10 sheet. I use Rodinal so I can't really say what's right for Pyro.

The manual says, "The films must be pushed through to the drum bottom." It doesn't differentiate between film sizes. You also need to load them straight, not what the manual describes as, "cornerwise."

Lastly, take a look at the other threads here for Expert drums. There are quite a few tips on how to use them effectively (filling/emptying the chemicals, getting the film out without scratching it, etc.).

And I think there's a pyro formulated specifically for roller drums - others should be able to explain whether this is good or not...

 

[Steve Sherman]

Expert Drum developing

For years I tray developed and finally switched over to the Expert drums. Over the years I had tested for numerous "plus" and "minus" development combinations. Those times and temps were all based on 1:31 dilutions, rather than completely go through the testing process again I tested only once to come up with a different dilution, once the dilution was determined I could then just take the previously tested times and use them at the new dilution.

Because of constant agitation using the Expert drums on a motor base which rotated 30 times per minute my new dilution ended up being 1:40 rather than 1:31, all times remained the same and the system has worked flawlessly since.

Film does need to be pushed all the way to the bottom. Finally, I do presoak for 5 minutes continuous agitation without fail.

Cheers

 

[Rolleiflexible]

I use the 3005 and 3006 tanks for my 5x7 work and I turn them on roller bases. Yes, you should presoak for at least five minutes, but don't fret if the phone rings and the soak lasts ten minutes -- the duration isn't important, so long as it's long enough to permeate the emulsion. I don't adjust developing times for rotary processing. The effect of the presoak is to slow development. For B+W work, varying developing time by 10 percent doesn't seem to have a meaningful effect on my work anyway.

If you are developing 5x7s in the 3005, you can process ten sheets at a time with it! In the darkroom, join two sheets along their long side with cellophane tape on the base side, not the emulsion side, to create a single sheet that is 7x10 inches, and slide it in one tube. Repeat. When you process the film and remove the negatives at the end, the antihalation dyes will remain trapped underneath the tape. That requires a rinse of 45 minutes or so to clear the spots, but once the dye's off the negatives are fine. I've processed zillions of 5x7s this way without a problem.

Sanders

 

[ChuckP]

I leave my 5x7's pushed in at the top. Works fine for me. It's a PITA to get them out from the bottom. I use 1500ml of Pyrocat or PMK. Unicolor base that reverses every two revolutions of the drum. Two 3 min presoaks. I use a flexible funnel to pour in the solutions as the drum is turning. I remove the film and run Permawash and washing steps using hangers. Many different ways to use these drums on motor bases and everyone has their own system that works for them.

 

[PhotoSmith]

Thanks for all the guidance! More suggestions are welcome. In the meantime I'll be searching some of the previous threads.

I like ChuckP's idea of the flexible funnel to add chem while the drum is turning. How are other people filling and draining the drum?

I'm also wondering about scratches from sliding the film into, and out of, the tubes.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

The tubes don't scratch the film. That's a given. If they did, there'd be no way Jobo could ever have justified the prices they charge for those drums.

ChuckP- 1500cc's in a 3005 drum? What are you souping in there? I've always done 1 L per batch of 5 8x10's and had enough, doing Pyrocat HD at 1:1:100.

 

[Ian Leake]

I like ChuckP's idea of the flexible funnel to add chem while the drum is turning. How are other people filling and draining the drum?

I think that's the best way of doing it. Anything which allows chems to get into the drum fast enough without spilling works. I use a simple tube from a Paterson tank with a funnel shoved in the end. It works but is a bit too slow, so I'm going to try and find something better soon.

I'm also wondering about scratches from sliding the film into, and out of, the tubes

I've never scratched a negative. All you need to do is fill the drum with water, gently (in fact very gently because the emulsion is fragile) grasp the two corners of the neg and slide it out. Be careful with what's going on with the bottom two corners because if you let the film wriggle these may cause scratches.

 

[PhotoSmith]

The tubes don't scratch the film. That's a given. If they did, there'd be no way Jobo could ever have justified the prices they charge for those drums.

ChuckP- 1500cc's in a 3005 drum? What are you souping in there? I've always done 1 L per batch of 5 8x10's and had enough, doing Pyrocat HD at 1:1:100.

I'm glad the tubes don't scratch the film. When I loaded a piece of film into the tank in daylight to see how it loaded, I had a little bit of abrasion on the base side of the film, so that's why I was concerned.

I'm hoping to try out the drum for real this weekend.

You're right on with your comment about how much they charge for the tanks. They are VERY proud of them!