Jobo 2830 Prints

[focus_on_infinity]

The Jobo 2830 tank specifies 100ml of chemistry for rotary processing of 8x10 prints. Is that correct for both developer and fixer? Should I use the same dilution as I would for trays? The tank can hold 1 or 2 prints. Should I use twice as much if I process 2 prints, or is 100ml adequate? It doesn't seem like a whole lot, although maybe I get that much use in trays.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The minimum volume of all chemicals is 100 ml, but you may want or need more. The dilutions are the same as one would use in trays.

 

[koraks]

Unless you use extremely dilute developer and fixer, 100ml will easily process 2 sheets of 8x10. If you want to be absolutely sure about image permanence, you could do two bath fixing.
Do keep a close eye on replenishment rates though, when using relatively low volumes of chemistry.

 

[Don_ih]

The Jobo 2830 tank specifies 100ml of chemistry for rotary processing of 8x10 prints. Is that correct for both developer and fixer? Should I use the same dilution as I would for trays? The tank can hold 1 or 2 prints. Should I use twice as much if I process 2 prints, or is 100ml adequate? It doesn't seem like a whole lot, although maybe I get that much use in trays.

I've used an Adox RA4 liquid 2-part kit for developing colour prints in a Jobo and generally mix up about 250ml to use for about a dozen 8x10s. If you don't mess up too much with test-strips and bad exposures, you can easily get that many good prints from that much. - possibly more, but streaking starts to become more likely. I don't think I'd bother with just 100ml, since even the drops of water left in the dev tank would dilute it too much.

 

[koraks]

Don, I think this is about b&w. RA4 is a little more finicky.

 

[focus_on_infinity]

Unless you use extremely dilute developer and fixer, 100ml will easily process 2 sheets of 8x10. If you want to be absolutely sure about image permanence, you could do two bath fixing.
Do keep a close eye on replenishment rates though, when using relatively low volumes of chemistry.

I guess I could do re-use or replenish. I was just thinking of doing single shot. From the Dektol and Kodak Rapid Fixer data sheets, it looks like I'm not really wasting much, if anything, by doing single shot. 2 8x10's per 100ml gives 20 per liter. The data sheets say Dektol gives 36/L, and Rapid Fixer is 24/L. So, that's reasonably efficient - especially for fixer.

I've used an Adox RA4 liquid 2-part kit for developing colour prints in a Jobo and generally mix up about 250ml to use for about a dozen 8x10s. If you don't mess up too much with test-strips and bad exposures, you can easily get that many good prints from that much. - possibly more, but streaking starts to become more likely. I don't think I'd bother with just 100ml, since even the drops of water left in the dev tank would dilute it too much.

Don, I think this is about b&w. RA4 is a little more finicky.

Yeah, at the moment I'm doing B&W with the Jobo. However, I only got into it because I plan on doing RA4, and wanted to get used to using the tubes on something familiar. I found I liked doing single shot, though, since I don't need to commit a whole tray of developer to a session. It's good to know that RA4 gives such good coverage. I'll keep that in mind when start working with it. I'll be using the Kodak RA chemistry when I got around to it.

 

[dkonigs]

There's a document on Jobo's website that shows revised quantities, and now recommends (at least with RA-4) using 122ml in the 2830 drum for two 8x10" prints:
http://www.jobo-usa.com/images/manuals/introduction_to_processing.pdf

I've done a fair bit of RA-4 in my 2830 drums without any real problems. I typically do 100ml if its a single print, or ~122ml if I'm doing two prints. (Since the processing step is usually the bottleneck with drum-processing prints, I often "double up" whenever I can.)

Of course this is all one-shot, so using as little as possible is preferable.

When I do test strips, I usually use a smaller drum that only needs around 40ml. (2820 "Test Drum" a.k.a. 2520 with the paper-processing lid)

 

[MattKing]

I guess I could do re-use or replenish. I was just thinking of doing single shot. From the Dektol and Kodak Rapid Fixer data sheets, it looks like I'm not really wasting much, if anything, by doing single shot. 2 8x10's per 100ml gives 20 per liter. The data sheets say Dektol gives 36/L, and Rapid Fixer is 24/L. So, that's reasonably efficient - especially for fixer.

When I do this, I use 6 measuring graduates - three on each side of the rotary agitator. I use Cibachrome tubes, and I have enough of them that there is time for them to air dry between uses.
I mix up something like 600 ml of each of Polymax-T (which most likely performs similarly to Dektol), indicator stop bath, and Kodak Rapid Fixer.
I track usage as I go.
For each solution, I use 100 ml per print. I fill from the graduates on the left, and after each print I empty into the graduates on the right (I'm left handed). When the graduates on the left are empty, and the graduates on the right are filled, I switch them.
I track usage, and replace the chemicals when I am about 2/3 of the way through the Kodak recommended capacity, although I'm happy to rely on the indicator when it comes to the stop bath.
I make a point of using developing times and fixing times that are at the higher end of the range. That tends to even out the effects of developer exhaustion.

 

[mshchem]

When I do this, I use 6 measuring graduates - three on each side of the rotary agitator. I use Cibachrome tubes, and I have enough of them that there is time for them to air dry between uses.
I mix up something like 600 ml of each of Polymax-T (which most likely performs similarly to Dektol), indicator stop bath, and Kodak Rapid Fixer.
I track usage as I go.
For each solution, I use 100 ml per print. I fill from the graduates on the left, and after each print I empty into the graduates on the right (I'm left handed). When the graduates on the left are empty, and the graduates on the right are filled, I switch them.
I track usage, and replace the chemicals when I am about 2/3 of the way through the Kodak recommended capacity, although I'm happy to rely on the indicator when it comes to the stop bath.
I make a point of using developing times and fixing times that are at the higher end of the range. That tends to even out the effects of developer exhaustion.

The Cibachrome tubes jogged my memory. When I was printing Cibachrome, I would use 1/2 used and 1/2 fresh each run. The result is a replenished, stable process. It helped with dialing back the contrast as well. I would save some of the "replenished " used solutions for starting the next printing session.