JandC 400

[kjsphoto]

I recently bought some JandC 400 and was told that I need to rate it at 200 and only rate it at 400 for light at night.

Does anyone have experience with this film? I really want to shoot this film but do not know what to rate it at now.

Thanks,

Kev

 

[johnnywalker]

I haven't tried the film, but I did a lot of looking at 400 films before ordering mine (I got Arista.Edu 400, which I understand is the same film as the J&C Classic 400 and the Fortepan 400) and I never ran across that statement about the film. Mine hasn't arrived yet, but I'll also be interested the replies you get.

Happy New Year,

 

[lee]

rate it at EI 200 for daytime light and 400 for flash shoot a little and see if the shadow detail is good for you if it is not and there is not enough then re-rate it say at 100 and shoot a few sheets and see how that works. Conversely if too much shadow detail for you rate it at 400 and shoot a few shots and see how that works somewhere you will find the proper EI

lee\c

 

[kjsphoto]

Do you keep the development time the same for all different ISO you rate it or adjust?

I have heard a lot of good things about the film but was unaware of the shadow detail issue you mentioned. What are the differnt things to look for with this film? Also, what is a good developer for it?

HC-110, Rodinal, TMAX, PyrocatHD?

Thanks,

Kev

 

[lee]

Do you keep the development time the same for all different ISO you rate it or adjust?

I have heard a lot of good things about the film but was unaware of the shadow detail issue you mentioned. What are the differnt things to look for with this film? Also, what is a good developer for it?

HC-110, Rodinal, TMAX, PyrocatHD?

Thanks,

Kev

kev,

I would keep the development the same for the initial tests. You need to make some tests to see if you like how the film prints as you shot it and as you developed it. Exposure controls the shadow detail and development controls the highlights. If you find that one or the other or both don't meet your tastes you may change one or the other or both. Lowering the EI on the meter will give you more exposure and increase the shadow detail conversely raising the EI will give less shadow detail. The same theory works with the developer except it does its work on the highlights. If you find that the highlights are lacking in detail you may choose to reduce the amount of time in the developer. If you find that the film is lacking in overall contrast you might want to increase the development time. No one can tell you what will work for your cameras your processes or your tastes. It is all up to you and how you meter the scene. Feel free to experiment. Any written instructions are simply put there as a guide line and a starting point. I don't quite understand what you want when you say "What are the different things I should look for." This is just old technology film and as such it has a toe and a shoulder. As I see it, it is just film. So I can say with some certainty, Your Mileage May Vary.

Lots of people say that this film will build contrast up to a certain point then it quits. Many that need or want contraster negatives might choose a film like EFKE or TMY. These films have a straighter line and the highlights seem not to shoulder off.

As to developers to use with this film, any of the developers should work just fine. I have some experience with Pyrocat-HD and PMK and HC110. Some testing will have to be done to make it work for you and your system. I cannot emphasize this enough. It is your work and vision, use it to your advantage.

 

[Dr.Kollig]

I started using this film a few years ago, by that time it was only available as Forte 400 not as Classic Pan 400, could not get a single film but either 10 or 30 m roll at the same price, so started out with 30 m....
THe film has a high sensitivity for red light, so it is around 320-400 in articial light, but only 200-250 ASA in normal daylight, this was marked in the Forte instructions which came with the film. So develop that film at the given times for first trials but set film speed to 200-250 ASA - as recommended.
For 35 mm film I would recommend Calbe A 49 or for grainny results Forte FMH 4175 with 800-1000 ASA.
Unlike Tri-X and HP5+ Forte 400 does not push well to 1600.

Kind regards,

Wolfram

 

[chrisg]

I've done some 4x5 test shots with J&C 400. EI 200 looks about right to me. For comparison, I rate HP5 at 400. (I picked up the J&C 400 as an alternative to HP5, which is my primary film.) Those EIs are for development with DDX.

Chris

 

[Jeremy]

For palladium contact printing in 5x7 size developed in pyrocat HD 2:2:100 I rate this film at 640.

 

[kjsphoto]

What is DDX?


Kev

 

[djklmnop]

Just to add to this discussion.. I tried EI testing last night with Rodinal 1:50. The film seems to be exhausting the developer much too quickly. For Zone VIII (75F), at 9 minutes the density fell short at .97.. I increased time for second trial to 11 minutes.. density came out to 1.0. Increased once again to 13.5 min!!!! yet density still 1.07. I know for a fact that I didn't do anything wrong, since Zone I's density increased accordingly.

I will be redoing my test this week with 1:25 dilution this time. Hopefully with better luck.

Andy

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

Check out Francesco's post in another APUG thread: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

My own experience with J&C Classic 400 developed in Pyrocat HD echos Francesco's. In other words, it is an excellent film/developer combination - especially with semi-stand agitation.

 

[chrisg]

What is DDX?


Kev

Ilford DD-X.

Label recommends 1+4 but I like it 1+9. Gives maybe half a stop additional speed over D-76, which I use 1+2.

Chris

 

[titrisol]

Ilfotec DDX is a liquid developer from Ilford. IMHO similar to Microphen.

Very low grain, nice pucshing ability.

 

[jmailand]

Ilfotec DD-X is a Ilford developer sold in liquid form. I think that what's ddx must stand for.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

These may be the two D’s in Ilfotec DD-X:
Diethylene Glycol
Diethylenetriamine Pentaacetic Acid – Na5

As a previous post indicated, Ilfotec DD-X produces results that are similar to those produced by Ilford Microphen, based on Ilford’s descriptive literature and the DD-X Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS).

See the Ilfotec DD-X MSDS:
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/pdf/msds/ilford/b&w/DD-X.PDF

 

[titrisol]

The original Ilfotec DD stands for Dip and Dunk.

Then the Ilford guys realized they could tweak it for hand processing and called it DDX

 

[Rolleijoe]

ARISTA EDU/Fortepan NOT Same as Classicpan (from Berlin)

I haven't tried the film, but I did a lot of looking at 400 films before ordering mine (I got Arista.Edu 400, which I understand is the same film as the J&C Classic 400 and the Fortepan 400) and I never ran across that statement about the film. Mine hasn't arrived yet, but I'll also be interested the replies you get.

Happy New Year,

I think there may be some confusion. Arista EDU IS FOrtepan, but NOT "J&C Classic". This is a film they bring in from Berlin Germany, which is called "Classicpan", and comes in a variety of speeds. I'm hoping to get some Berlin REaL variety over, and do some tests. I've goe some friends in the Fatherland, will ask for a pickup.

Rolleijoe

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

J&C Classic, Classicpan, and Arista.EDU are all rebranded Fortepan. John from J&C has posted this here before, and I've discussed it in e-mail with Mirko from fotoimpex.de.

 

[jandc]

J&C Classic, Classicpan, and Arista.EDU are all rebranded Fortepan. John from J&C has posted this here before, and I've discussed it in e-mail with Mirko from fotoimpex.de.

This is correct.

 

[Doug Bennett]

John,

When do you expect to have Classic 400 in 120 format back in stock?

 

[Rolleijoe]

I've done some 4x5 test shots with J&C 400. EI 200 looks about right to me. For comparison, I rate HP5 at 400. (I picked up the J&C 400 as an alternative to HP5, which is my primary film.) Those EIs are for development with DDX.

Chris

When I 1st used DDX on HP5+ (& Tri-X 320) 4x5, I was very disappointed in how low contrast the HP turned out to be. I've bought some of the Forte 200 in 4x5 (packaged as "Arista EDU") but haven't finished shooting up the Tri-X Pro I've got loaded.

I've got all my development times/films down to the same time/temp whether I use HC-110, Rodinal or Studional. So I'll just stick with these. Unless the Forte (which I've shot years ago in 120 with great results) is still the same as it was.

Rolleijoe