The Planar 110 f/2 is awesome for portraits.That 105mm f/2.4 lens is so good for portraits and the larger negative with 4x5 aspect ratio will result in less cropping.
Re the Pentax 6x7 / 67
I'm a small-handed Irishman and find this camera quite the handful in size and weight, especially with something like the 165mm leaf shutter or non-leaf shutter lens — nudging close to 3.4kg (the 67 pack is 15kg with just one camera!) The two 67s I have are used specifically in the landscape genre with the 45mm f4 (latest-gen) and 75mm f2.8AL 'firecracker' leading the pack. Of Hassy, well, I did not warm enough to the Hasselblads in the time I used a 500C/M + 80mm; I went on to a Horsman 45FA after that courtship. The 6x7 format allows me to crop to 6x6, 6x4.5 or right down to 35mm. This flexible cropping ability might be the deal killer for Hasselblad, imaging quality aside. I use the 6x6 format all the time in my multiformat Zero Image pinhole cameras — it's a petite, intimate look at the landscape through primitive eyes (the camera's, not mine!)
Durability & reliability
I have a funny saying that the SMC Pentax 67 lenses are of a better build and reliability than the cameras they keep company with!
Be cautious if you land an early (1969 to 1976) 6x7 over the final-generation (early 1990s)) 67-badged cameras. So very, very many have gone through multiple professional in-service with attendant abuse over the years. Weak spots are the winding mechanism, specifically winding pawls stripping or breaking; film counter roller and sometimes broken film reel studs (early model cameras). Old, neglected cameras will require the light seals replaced around the prism and internal dovetails around the back cover — a gnarly and grizzly task best left to people with lots and lots of patience and 'elbow grease' — 'tis a loathsome chore! Some cameras come factory-fitted with a multiexposure facility (see pic below) — handy for stacking the scene for different effects.
Retarded shutter speeds in the 1/250 to 1/1000 range also show up in user gripes. Decay of mirror operation occurs regularly, with service of the solenoid being a good fix. The meter coupling chain is a bit delicate and can snap if a specific procedure for dismounting and re-mounting prism and lens is not followed. Repair entails disassembly of the lens mount and fashioning a replacement line out of e.g strong TigerTail beading wire that is very flexible and very, very strong, then re-calibrating the mount for correct alignment (it uses shims). Would recommend you look for a 67-badged camera with mirror lock-up that allows you to effectively isolate judder and shake in landscape (which assumes you will be using it tripod-mounted for the very best results it is able to deliver).
Where MLU is fitted: with film loaded and the camera cocked, the MLU lever should be taped over to prevent it being accidently tripped in the pack, thus draining the battery (see pic).
All 6x7 - 67 bodies have a reset function that also craftily doubles as a battery-less exposure trip for astrophotography (using a cable release and adaptor plate). The reset function will sacrifice one frame of the roll to effect correct reset.
Try and examine a camera of interest in person rather than take what is printed as gospel. Else, ask lots of questions and be very satisfied that you are being given the right answers.
Hi all,
I’ve been searching for my “final” medium format camera for a while now, and my plan was to buy a well-functioning Pentax 67. I want a camera that’s intuitive and reliable for portrait work, but also capable for occasional landscape and architecture photography. My budget is up to €2000.
While browsing, I noticed that Hasselblad 500(C/M) kits are available in the same price range. I always assumed Hasselblad was far beyond my reach, so I never seriously considered it. Now that it is within budget, I’m unsure which direction to go.
A few concerns and questions:
Handling: The Pentax 67 appeals to me for its SLR-style ergonomics. On the other hand, the Hasselblad’s modular design and reputation are very tempting — but is it practical enough for occasional street photography?
Durability: I’d like to avoid frequent repairs. Build quality and long-term reliability matter a lot.
Alternatives: I also considered the Rolleiflex SL66(SE), but many say it’s heavy and not ideal to carry around. I’ve never held one, so I’m relying on your experience.
Given my needs — portraits first, landscapes/architecture second, some street use, and a strong preference for durable gear — which system would you choose, and why?
Thanks in advance f
or your insights.
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