Isopropyl alcohol. Will it damage negatives?

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Jonathan R

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Drying marks are generally on the back of the neg, which is relatively hard, and can be gently removed using a microfibre cloth over one finger, dabbed in clean tapwater. Before it dries again (which takes only seconds), dry it gently with a dry bit of the cloth. Old linen handkerchieves used to be recommended in the 1960s, but microfibre cloths are much better (yes, I am that old).

I read somewhere in the Ilford technical stuff recently that drying marks are more likely if you don't use a stop bath. I don't know why this would be, but recently I stopped using a stop (if you see what I mean), and drying marks have appeared in my life again.
 

Roger Cole

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It will not damage it but can leave a residue. I've used 70% (when I happened to have 70% on hand, yes 90% would be better) as a quick dry aid back when I sometimes needed that. Soak for a minute and hang to dry and it will dry much, much faster. I always went back and washed again and dried normally later though I'm not sure that was needed. It does leave a residue (at least 70% does) as mentioned, so I've wanted to wash that off. It wipes off easily enough when dry, but I figured a re-wash wouldn't hurt. Negatives I processed in the 70s this way are still ok.
 

gleaf

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Sigma-Aldrich will sell you 99.9% . They have less pure also. Not inexpensive.
 

Steve Smith

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Drying marks are generally on the back of the neg, which is relatively hard, and can be gently removed using a microfibre cloth over one finger, dabbed in clean tapwater.

I too have found that they are usually just on the back. A finger in a cotton glove usually removes them.


Steve.
 

dpurdy

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I find plain water works better than alcohol on most spots on film and on print surfaces. I threw a lot of prints away before I figured that out. You can use alcohol after you clean a spot with water to make it dry faster. The only time I reach first for alcohol is when I have an LFN residue left on my neg.
Anyway that is my experience.
Dennis
 
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