Hey guys I'm a beginner and I've got a question. I started a mt superia400 film roll at 200 for about 3 shots then changed it to 400, was that a good idea? Or will that harm the quality of the photos.
Iso film speed ????
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You added 1 stop of extra light, not a problem for color film.
OP
OP
So wouldn't matter when i get it developed and some shots are different iso well only about the first 3 or 5 are at 200 the rest of the roll is at the preferred box speed 400
Those first few shots may be slightly overexposed - maybe not, depending on the lighting situation and the accuracy of your meter. That's not enough to cause any problems with prints or scans.
Negative film, (especially B/W) is usually very forgiving of overexposure, and one stop is nothing to be too concerned about.
I usually shoot B/W film at one stop overexposed as I prefer denser negatives for darkroom printing.
Negative film, (especially B/W) is usually very forgiving of overexposure, and one stop is nothing to be too concerned about.
I usually shoot B/W film at one stop overexposed as I prefer denser negatives for darkroom printing.
Your prints of the first frames will be ok, but there is no reason to deviate from box speed on color film. Can you change from box speed? Yes but the more you move off box speed, the more you will loose elsewhere.
Superia is color print film. Color print film is processed in C-41 chemistry. The development time for all color print films is 3 minutes 15 seconds @ 103°F. Pull (under development) for over exposure is 3 minutes at 103°F, push (over developing) for under exposure is 3 minutes 30 seconds at 103°F. 3 or more stops over exposed or under exposed will require push or pull processing.
ISO 400 3 stops over exposure is EV 50, 3 stops under exposure is EV 3200. ISO is box speed EV is your selected film speed called Exposure Value.
ISO 400 3 stops over exposure is EV 50, 3 stops under exposure is EV 3200. ISO is box speed EV is your selected film speed called Exposure Value.
Color print film has so much latitude - particularly in the over exposure side, that 1 stop is easily compensated for during scan and/or in post. Typically, minilab auto scan settings will level out the results that you won't notice the difference.
You mean Exposure Index (EI). By your explanation of push and pull processing, you mean to say that up to two stops over/under one better not push/pull process?
Thanks for the correction. What I stated was told to me by the operator of The Darkroom, San Carlos, Ca. (now closed) and she knew her stuff.
From my own processing a 5% change in development time (B&W) is just detectable in the finished negative. 3 minutes 15 seconds = 195 seconds; 195*.05 = 9.75 seconds. 3' 15" - 9.75" = 3' 5.25".
15" is 7.7% of 3' 15". C-41 was designed to be a fixed processing time/temperature chemistry. If I'm mistaken please correct me.
OP
OP
So of I do shoot at 200 iso should I follow the light Metter exactly to not over expose anymore?
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The correct temperature is 100F, not 103F.
Consistency is important. Weather you add more exposure or not will depend more on the lighting on the scene/subject than a rule.
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Kodak invented the C-41 process and they have always said 100F. That is the official temperature. I would not trust a process that used anything else to give proper results.
Yes.
I will make a few points on metering and rating film:
1. Consumer film like Superia and Kodak Gold is more contrasty, overexposing increases contrast, so you probably want to stick to at most a stop over, ie if you bought Superia 400 then expose it in the 200-400 range.
2. Regardless, if you are getting scans from a good lab 1-2 stops over should make little (if any) difference.
3. My lab's advice is to when in doubt err on overexposure, so if you are a bit sloppy with metering then your camera meter will more likely under expose than over expose. So if you rated film at 200 you have a 1 stop buffer.
4. Don't over think it too much if you are just getting started. It is far more important to sort out your scanning than a stop over/under when shooting.
5. Personally I get fantastic results with Kodak Portra 160 rated 100 and Portra 400 rated 250 or 320.
negative film usually benefits from a bit more light than box speed. I'd start with 2/3 of a stop below box speed and take t from tere.
the best thing to do (imo) is change the iso dial to 25,50,100,200,400,800,1600, 3200 for the same scene and then look at the negatives /scans when they come back from the lab. That will will you can see exactly what happens when you change the iso dial for a scene.
Then just shoot the rest of the roll at 400.
Then just shoot the rest of the roll at 400.
The "killer" experiment here is to keep your 103F that you process at 103 then show us your prints over a period of weeks in the gallery but say nothing and see if anyone notices a problem with them and if they do how many mention that your processing temp was 3 degrees F too high
Kodak says, I think, that the tolerance for temperature is plus or minus about 0.4 F so 103 F is way over and should be noticeable I'd have thought but is it?
I remain intrigued about the famous 100F
pentaxuser
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If nobody says anything that doesn't mean a difference isn't there, and scans and internet reproductions cannot be trusted to judge technical quality.
One could run a better test by doing a side-by-side comparison between the standard and non-standard results or better yet judging the quality of a gray scale, and see if any differences are acceptable to them.
Temperature can make quite a difference with color developers, as I personally have observed, and for someone to say 103F is the correct temperature for C-41 must be challenged.
One could run a better test by doing a side-by-side comparison between the standard and non-standard results or better yet judging the quality of a gray scale, and see if any differences are acceptable to them.
Temperature can make quite a difference with color developers, as I personally have observed, and for someone to say 103F is the correct temperature for C-41 must be challenged.
MattKing
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I'm guessing that the 103F recommendation from Tetenal reflects the fact that many users are working in a home environment rather than a commercial environment, and many home environments mean there will be some downward temperature drift. A 103F starting point may be an effective way of dealing with temperature drift.
If that is the intention, the instructions would be a lot better if they stated that specifically.
If that is the intention, the instructions would be a lot better if they stated that specifically.
Well I remembered incorrectly
Isaiah, the ISO standard is used to measure the base sensitivity of electronic sensors, and the available gain of the devices utilizing them (such as digital cameras).
The sensitivity of film however is measured by the ASA standard.
The sensitivity of film however is measured by the ASA standard.
MattKing
Moderator
The sensitivity of film is measured by the ISO standard for film, which has similarities to the ASA standard, which it replaced - possibly before the OP was born.
No film manufacturer uses, or has adopted the ISO standard that I am aware of.
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