The edges are farther away from the pinhole than the centre is, so the paper negative receives less exposure at the edges. This is normal.why is the middle lighter than the edges and is this normal
.023"/4.5" = 1/196 - therefore your f/stop is 1/196.Also, I measured the pin that I used to punch the hole and it measured at .023 at the widest part. That's .58mm Wow...and I thought I made a really small hole. It's 4.5" from the shutter to the film plane, is there a calculator that I can use to calculate the f/stop from that?
You are working at a fairly wide angle, and fall-off away from the center axis is a normal thing. Not sure why, but I have felt it's more noticeable with paper than with film, which doesn't make much sense.
There is a site called Mr Pinhole that has all sorts of information and calculators. I actually prefer Pinhole Designer, a program that you download and install under Windows, as Mr. Pinhole is a little short on explanations as to what assumptions are made, but the Mr. Pinhole stuff runs web-based via scripts, so it's much more universal.
The edges are farther away from the pinhole than the centre is, so the paper negative receives less exposure at the edges. This is normal.
.023"/4.5" = 1/196 - therefore your f/stop is 1/196.
The two programs suggested by Dave can help you choose an optimized pinhole size. If I am using it correctly, Pinhole Designer recommends a pinhole size of .019 inches, which would yield an f/stop of 1/237 (using the Lord Rayleigh constant).
For comparison purposes, my fairly well optimized Noons 6x12 pinhole camera offers a 60mm focal length, and an f/stop of 1/207.
That's very interesting! There's a lot more too this than just banging a hole in some metal and throwing a piece of paper inside, however I'm pretty thrilled that I got this far and with a slight bit of improvement of my hole and cutting down my paper, it will get better.Some further comment about fall-off. Not only is the pinhole-to-film distance increasing as you move off-axis, there is also the problem that a circle viewed at an angle becomes an ellipse so the effective aperture area is shrinking. At 90º off axis, the pinhole appears closed. So there is an exponential decrease in exposure due to those combined effects.
An additional problem can be in the actual fabrication of the pinhole. The ideal pinhole has a perfectly round knife sharp edge and is made in an infinitesimally thin sheet -- a rather impractical situation! In an extreme opposite case, where a hole is drilled in a relatively thick plate, the fall-off is much more rapid and will produce a vignetted image. It's fun stuff and in the end, sort of comforting to get a recognizable image with so little technology.
Thanks, that does give me something to think about and gauge my own efforts.Just for reference, the Zero Image 2000 (6x6cm format) has these specs:
- pinhole size: 0.2mm, f/138
- focal length: 25mm
- image circle: 87.5mm
Actually, that is part of the fascination of pinhole.There's a lot more too this than just banging a hole in some metal and throwing a piece of paper inside,
Very nice!Actually, that is part of the fascination of pinhole.
If you do that, it still works!
And yet, there is lots of room to refine too.
Colour can be fun as well
(Noons pinhole set to 6x9, Ektachrome 100G):
View attachment 191777
And to show you even more extreme fall-off
(Noons pinhole set to 6x12, T-Max 100):
View attachment 191778
Caution - pinholes are both fun and addictive.
See pinhole cameras are like Hobbits:If you do that, it still works!
And yet, there is lots of room to refine too.
No - probably Alpasthe Elves probably have Leicas.
Thanks.Most of the fall off effect is also characteristic of equivalent lens and film sizes. The higher contrast of paper in relation to film also makes a difference.
Rpavich, for much information on pinhole photography, look online for a copy of Pinhole Photography by Eric Renner. Also go to https://jongrepstad.com/pinhole-photography/
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