is there an "HC110 for paper"?

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BetterSense

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Since my development and printing schedule is chaotic, I have ended up standardized on HC110. Even Rodinal doesn't last long enough in mostly-empty bottles to compete with the convenience of HC110.

I have always used dektol but I'm getting lazy about having to mix up a gallon when it runs out. I wish I could just mix it up from concentrate every time. Can I literally use HC110 for paper? Is it convenient to mix up e.g. D72 each session with teaspoons?
 

NedL

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(there was a url link here which no longer exists) is very convenient. Then you don't need to mix up anything, just use it whenever you want to print. The bottle can sit for months between uses and it's still ready to go.
 
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I've started using Moersch ECO 4812 since it seems to have a decent shelf life and is easy to mix (1+14). I haven't had a failure yet but I've only used it for a few months (4-6 months).
 

Nodda Duma

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Yes, I use PolymaxT because the shelf life is very long like HC-110 (though not quite as long).

The prepared solution keeps several months too if you can store it airtight (plastic bottle that you can squeeze the air out)and you don't mind increasing the dev time as it ages.
 

MattKing

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Yes, I use PolymaxT because the shelf life is very long like HC-110 (though not quite as long).

The prepared solution keeps several months too if you can store it airtight (plastic bottle that you can squeeze the air out)and you don't mind increasing the dev time as it ages.

Same for me.

It seems to be readily available again (B & H, Adorama, Freestyle), in new packaging which would indicate it is now being manufactured by Tetenal.

I asked a related question just over a year ago: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)
 

bdial

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Liquidol, sold by the formulary, and created by PE lasts a long time. Moersch Neutral is also very long lasting.
Ansco 130, available from the formulary, keeps well once mixed, but it comes powdered.

It's certainly possible to mix up D-72 from components in small batches. Not something I've done, but I know of folks who do.
Liquidol was made to match Dektol's working characteristics, but as a liquid concentrate, and to have a long working life, it lasts for weeks in my Nova.
 

Ko.Fe.

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I was lazy to go to the store and buy Ilford concentrate in small bottle every few weeks.
So, I purchased one gallon of Ilford concentrate. I'm using it one year now.
For OP laziness one small bottle of Ilford developer stored in accordion bottle will do.
 
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BetterSense

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The last time I tried liquid paper developer, I think it was a house-brand and the last bit of it went off in the bottle. I should give polymax a try; it seems economical enough.

The good thing about Dektol is I find the stock solution lasts many months and works fine even if it starts going brown. I reuse the working solution forever and just replenish it with 20% or so of fresh every session, so its economical, but since I have to mail-order my chemicals, I'm trying to avoid supply chain issues where I either run out of developer or I end up ordering a small dedicated order for chemicals because I only buy film a couple times per year. I have hsd bad luck with Dektol going bad in foil packets after a year or more in storage so I can't just stockpile it.
 

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hi better sense
i was going to suggest ansco 130 as bdial did ... or if you have a cupboard to
stock the chemicals, the stuff that makes dektol/d72 a( and/ or a130, its sort of like dektol with some glycin in it )and some glycin for your freezer
and you will never be without paper developer again ( or film developer if you ever use just d72 or a130 as your film brew )
i would also suggest caffenol for paper, toffle here on apug uses it, and his website ( probably can check his profile for the address )
has his recipe, and samples of what he has done with it. i also use caffenol c with a shot of dektol or a130 in it, both film and paper,
and when i split develp/prints i start in dektol, then go into the coffee and back and forth ..
and like you i just add a little more new to the old-stuff. i was told by a friend that you probably only need to add a tiny bit of
one chemical to revitalize it, but i can't remember what it was, metol maybe, i don't remember.

good luck !
john
 

nworth

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No. HC-110 is anhydrous (without water) in the bottle, and it does no become active until you add water. That's why it lasts so well. Paper developers tend to be highly active and highly alkaline. They tend not to last very long once the bottle is opened, although I have regularly had stock solutions last four to six months. Formulary Liquidol seems to be the longest lasting liquid concentrate, both in the bottle and in the tray. When I have used it, I have always finished the bottle long before it expired. In the tray, I've had it last at least three days, with minor, intermittent use. I don't know if Kodak Ektaflo developers (or an equivalent) are still made, but they had exceptional shelf life. Kodak said their lives were indefinite in the original, unopened container, and they were very long in an opened container. My limited experience with LPD did not show exceptional shelf life, although its life was not bad. The same goes for Ansco 130.
 

Roger Cole

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I can't understand why others seem to get long life out of working strength Dektol and for me the stuff is bad the next day, or a few days at most if very carefully stored. LPD is great for long life and comes as a liquid or powder, though you pay a considerable premium for the liquid and even the powder already isn't cheap (though with its long life it doesn't cost that much to use.) I don't know of a super concentrated one like HC-110 is for film so probably the suggestion of Polymax-T is a good place to start.
 
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BetterSense

BetterSense

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Maybe I don't dilute my dektol as much as I "should"... I don't measure it when mixing working solution.
 

miha

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Moersch ECO 4812 keeps for years (my bottle was still fine after 5 years!), gives superb blacks and doens't contain HQ. It used to be my standard developer.
 
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